quarantined tank

[matycake]

So I'm looking to set up a quarantined tank but I don't know what I need,
Should I put a power head in the tank? What should the salt level be at and what else would I need to have a prop re quarantined tank
Thank you in advance for the information

[Hookup]

OMG touchy subject... LOL... buckle up.

[matycake]

Lol, I'm ready and bucked up

[bt]

For equipment, it's a pretty basic list:

Tank (duh)
Lights
Canopy or mesh lid
Heater
Thermometer
Filter (in tank or HOB, as long as it takes a sponge and NOT all-in-one filter media)
Fake terrain (PVC elbows work really well for this)
Air pump & air stone

Also a good idea to have on hand, though not strictly necessary:

Prime or Ammo-lock (in case your filters can't keep up with the ammonia)
PH buffer
Good variety of food suitable for what is going into QT
Something to cover the sides of the tank
Ammonia test kit
"Stocked" fish medicine cabinet
Siphon tube

For the size of the QT, you don't need to go nuts on it.  IIRC, you've got a 125G DT?  I'd aim for either a 20G Long, 30G or 30G Breeder.  You want to maximize swim space over volume.  A 10G would probably cut it for the QT of anything you get as a juvenile, but would probably be too small if you had to use it as a hospital tank down the road for any larger adults.  As usual though, it's generally "the bigger the better", so if you can go bigger without too much trouble, do it.

Lights don't need to be powerful, not even for coral - you aren't looking to maximize growth or colouration while in QT.  If you do get something brighter, try to get one that's dimmable as well.  You want to start the lights low for new fish and then bring the levels up.

Power head is not necessary a lot of the time, but if you (A) go with an in-tank filter or (B) larger tank if the HOB is to one side.  Generally though, a decent HOB should provide enough flow for QT purposes.

"Cycle" the filter sponge in your DT's sump if you have one, or stick it somewhere inconspicuous in your DT if you have no sump.  Let it sit for several weeks at least.  In general, try to keep one cycling in your main system at all times so you're ready to set up your QT pretty quickly.  If your filter has the space to double up on the sponge (like the Aquaclear HOBs), do so.

TEST THE FILTERS AFTER YOU SET UP THE QT, BEFORE YOU GO GET THE FISH.  Emphasis definitely needed.  It really, really sucks to add your nice new fish to QT only to find out there isn't enough nitrifying bacteria in the sponge to keep up with the ammonia levels.  Add some source of ammonia - doesn't need to be much, just 1 day's worth of fish food will do.  Test after some time - you should hopefully see 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites and >0 nitrates.  If you see a little bit of ammonia, but mostly nitrates, you can probably get by with a more aggressive water change schedule.  If you see 0 across the board, either the food hasn't broken down into ammonia yet or one of your tests is lying to you (test kits can go bad, after all).

For salinity, ideally you want to start with it at the same level as the tank the fish is coming from.  After you've got the fish acclimated, you can perform a hyposalinity treatment if you want.  After hypo (or if you choose not to perform hypo), slowly shift it towards the salinity in your display tank.

Don't add sand unless the specific kind of fish calls for it (such as wrasses that burrow to sleep), and even then you can provide a "sandbox" in tupperware rather than covering the entire bottom.

Don't ever share equipment between the QT and DT without sterilizing it.  If you medicate with anything other than hyposalinity, don't ever - EVER - use anything that could have absorbed the medication (such as sand) in the DT or when QT'ing coral or inverts.

Some people suggest prophylactic treatments.  I'm not completely sold on this personally, unless it's a species that's known to be highly susceptible to something.  I haven't heard a really strong argument for or against though, so I'd advise at least considering it yourself.

[mmaisonneuve]

Also Keep in mind that you may at some point go into Hyposalinity Treatment....just like what happen to me !!!. So please no live Rock, no sand bed.

Just Tank, Canopy, Heater, Circulation pump, Filtration (Mecanical) and Cyphon...and get ready for water change ! lots of them.

[matycake]

So I went out and got my self a 20L with a aquaclear 50 filter witch is good up to 50 gallons I have 2 reefbright 2 led bulb light that are blue In color so I was going to used theme, now should I get a white light as well ?

[JetJumper]

Don't waste money on lights for a QT tank.  Thats my personal Opinion.

[matycake]

So I'm fine withmy nightlight reef bright lights ?

[JetJumper]

13W/23w Curly Bulbs would work well as well

[matycake]

Should I go with a lot of bubles or just a little bit ?

[Severum]

In the past, for a QT tank I've just used a long bucket, HOB filter, heater and water from a water change. I've placed the bucket near my display so it gets the spill over lighting. Thats really all you need. For treating hypo just dilute with fresh water.

[mmaisonneuve]

This Hyposalinity is driving me CRAZY !!! after 2 weeks in Hyposalinity, my Blue Tang is still displaying signs of ICK ! The Tomato Clown is now clean on doing really good. How many weeks can it take for that ICK to be completely gone ?

[Hookup]

8-10 weeks.

check the sticky on ick.  it has the details.

[mmaisonneuve]

For the 8-10 weeks in Quarantine I knew that, but I tought the ICK on the fish would go away a little more quickly !!! like 10-15 days ? That Blue Tang would really appreciate getting out of the 30 Gallon and take a Swim in the 90.

[bt]

How many weeks can it take for that ICK to be completely gone ?

From what I've read, it's an average of about 2 weeks for the initial signs to go away - but with a pretty wide spread from best to worst case time frames.  No personal experience though.

And if you're following strict "best practice" methods, that's followed by another 4 weeks of observation in hypo, several days to a week to bring the salinity back up, and another 4 weeks of observation at normal salinity.

[mmaisonneuve]

My plan was keep the fishes around 12 week in the QT tank.....it's long and costly too ! 5 Gallon Water Change every night. On the long run that Tang will be worth a little fortune 

[moused]

Read up on Ick cycling.
I had the same issues with introducing my clown.
I though the ick was all gone...then it came back with a vengence.
I always let the ick go through 3-4 cycles before I think that it's gone.

Raise the water temp, which speeds up the ick cycle, as well as hypo-salinity is a must.

I tried a few other methods but the hypo-salinity was the successful one that I had.

Be patient and the ick will go...

Note: when you bring up the salinity to reintroduct to the display tank - do it slowly.  Fish can do well in going down in salinity but going up is harder on them.


"Unlike freshwater ich, marine ich (Cryptocaryon & Oodinium) is cued by temperature increases rather than decreases. Having said that, an elevated temperature (84-86°F) will speed the life cycle of ich to 10 days rather than 14. A shorter life cycle of 10 days will assure that you can eradicate the ich quicker as the population shrinks with each consecutive generation as they enter the swimming stage of their life cycle"

[mmaisonneuve]

Thanks for that info. I'll rise the temp up a little more. I was at 80 I'll get it a little higher 82-83.