Aquarium 101.

[dan2x38]

I used the river pea gravel already in the tank for a 50-50 mixture with red Fluorite giving me 3.5" depth. I saved about 50% of the water from my 38g. I pulled all the plants put in a bucket. Then netted all the fish. With only a couple inches of water I dumped in a full bag of Red Fluorite & mixed it with the gravel in the tank. Don't rinse the Fluorite your throwing out some of the good stuff. I placed a cereal bowl on top of the gravel then poured treated water into the bowl so it disturbed less of the gravel. Once it is 1/2 full I stopped filling and placed all my plants and driftwood back in. I then finished filling the tank and added the fish back. Make sure to turn off your heater! It took me less then 3 hrs. start to finish. By the next morning it was basically cleared up. The next day I rinsed the filter sponge in some tank water b/c of all the dust. I did have to dust off a few plants and the driftwood. Of course I replaced the water with clean treated water.

Well planted or not you should still vacuum your gravel. If you do not sulfur gases can build up in the substrate these gases can instantly kill a fish/s when it is released. It erodes bottom feeders barbels then they will starve to death. Also organic levels will climb and pH will crash some plants will die, some fish and especially shrimp and snails. I use a small diameter gravel vacuum to go between plants for my tanks I still use buckets to drain & fill. I modified my Python added a smaller diameter gravel tube as well so I can get between the plants.

There are many successful set-ups for planted or any tanks I've seen some pretty cool set-ups around here and online. I used a plant filter for my tank and it worked great. If you are interested here is the link: http://ovas.ca/index.php?action=gallery;su=user;cat=253;u=2243 I did simplify the plumbing from the pics too. I used a submersed plant filter and then a hydroponic filter with terrestrail plants. The point here is like Fishnut demonstrates there are many different set-ups with great success. BUT there are still some basic rules you should follow...

[Fishnut]

I don't have my gravel separated into layers.  I just mixed them and pored in the water.  Dan has described how to do it MUCH better than I did.  I wasn't careful not to stir up the gravel when I filled the tank so it looked like mud for about a week.  Unfortunately you just have to wait for it to settle because you'll be removing the fine particulates, which is some of the good stuff and something that you pay for when you buy flourite.

Dan, I vacuum all of my tanks except for the planted tank because of the flourite dust.  I don't want to remove the good stuff and there still seems to be quite a lot of it.  I guess that's something I shouldn't share because you're right, there are certain rules that should be followed.  I set that tank up to be as natural as possible.  My way of thinking is that there's nobody vacuuming the substrate in the lakes, so as long as the number of plants is high enough to absorb the nutrients and there are creatures that dig through the gravel (MTS's) then it should stay healthy.  Since the rivers are bringing a source of fresh water to the lakes, I do my water changes by just draining the portion of water out.  I very well could be wrong and it could bite me in the butt at some point, but it's working for now.

[pminister]

The tricks of the trade from the great masters, of an aquatic lifestyle for the newbs. lol. I have to say by far that is the best method from both dan2x38, as well as Fishnut. I remember when i first saw my friend setup his planted tank, i was just a lil startled by all the work. Then i am like i aint ever going down that route, truth be told that is where i am heading. lol.

IMO i just find it a lil overwhelming especially as some just starting in the aquarium hobby, is that all the basic rules apply for the aquarium hobby. Though the tricky part comes into play when there are so many different setups, process, etc you name of varied ideas that has worked for many people, or some have not.

At that point you just have to take a leap, and do a trial an error to see what works based on your scenario. I can't wait till i get my 30 Gallon tank, so i can do all this fancy foot work myself. I actually printed all this out, just so i have a back up copy of all this informaiton. Hahhaha.


Thanks Again people...

[pminister]

Light

Ok i manged to dust of the tube light, that is fixed into the canopy and this is the information i got off it.

Eclipse
Natural Daylight
F15/T8 18**
Made In Germany for Marineland

15 is written on the opposite side of the top information

So based on this information would this light be ok for my 10 Gallon tank, with java fern at the moment which is only like 7 leaves, and anubias nana which i plan on getting later on ?



- pardon me for being a lil repetitive or a lil slow when it comes to this side of hobby 

[dan2x38]

That light seems fine for a 10g with those plants they are so easy. If you want to go planted take your time go with easy to goprw plants like: hygrophilia, ludwigia, indica, watersprite, dwarf sag... to name a few... just Goggle them.

Lighting is different on a small tank but let's not confuse you to start...  Most important so you don't get discourgae and leave the green side take it slow, research, experiment with the easy cheap plants, then dive in head first... 

Oh and by the way not a master you want guys like, Charlie, Fischkopp, Jetstream, Toss... just to name a few... those guys can grow anything when they post read their's for sure!

[pminister]

That light seems fine for a 10g with those plants they are so easy.

Yeah I might end up at least upgrading it to 20 W for the light, and just leave it at that. I was reading this one link that someone posted, about light threshold which was very informative. A lil confusing but definitely an awesome site....

If you want to go planted take your time go with easy to goprw plants like: hygrophilia, ludwigia, indica, watersprite, dwarf sag... to name a few... just Goggle them.

Yeah i plan on going easy, since there is still alot that i am unsure of when it comes to planted tank. Right now i got Java Fern growing, along with one stem of Hornworth that i got when i got my Betta fish. But i really like that Watersprite, wouldnt mind getting that along with some Anubias Nana in a month or so.

Oh and by the way not a master you want guys like, Charlie, Fischkopp, Jetstream, Toss... just to name a few... those guys can grow anything when they post read their's for sure!

I like your modesty. But it is just a joy reading responses from the key people.

By the way i recently discovered something funky in my tank, not sure what it is yet hoping someone could tell me. The other day i was cleaning the water drops of the front glass, but later when i looked inside the tank behind the front pane. There was this white blotch, which was partly around the inside of the tank. But when you look from the outside glass looks clean, but looking inside gives the effect of hard water stains.

What can i do to make my glass look crystal clean from inside and outside  

[dan2x38]

What can i do to make my glass look crystal clean from inside and outside  

My guess is it's calcuim build up. What part of the City are you in. Hard water can leave this deposit much quicker than softer.

The outside I clean by turning away from any tanks and spraying ammonia free Windex on to a cloth then clean it like any other glass. I never do this if I plan on cleaning the tank/s that day. Try to remember to wash your hands and rinse well in case you forget and decide to reach in to clip a plant or something.

On the inside I use a razor blade. Going from top to bottom I hold the blade on an angle and move downwards to scrap off any thing built up. Note becareful do not go into the corners or you wil scrap off the silcone and cause a leak and don't cut int the edge of the silcone either. It works wonders and my tanks are crystal clear always. Lee Aquariums sells a large razor blade but have not seen locally. When group orders go through to MOPS.CA they have them cheap and usually enough folks are in on the order it is free shipping.

[pminister]

Oh I am in the west end area, up at Britania Park. Genius idea....i will definitely try cleaning it was a razor blade. I will also try using those sponges, with an acrylic base hoping it will clean it off this Friday when i do a water change.

When my uncle was over he was saying it was algae, but i thought algae looked greenish. Aside from that my tank doesn't really have any fuzzy type matter, giving it that algae look. Though the new born of the Java Fern, do have a brownish roots. But healthy as they can ever be, just waiting for them to get to at least 3" inches so i can cut then mount it on wood.

Btw way would you know of a way to reduce the water flow from the out take, of my the power filter I have (ie. HOB Penguin Filter w/ Bio Wheel). Also a way to prevent fishes getting there fins sucked, to the intake of the filter

Reason I am asking is I got a Betta, and i placed it in my 10 gallon tank. But couple times it got stuck to impeller, so right now i just placed it in a bowl. Though i dont really have the resources at the moment, to get a full setup for the lil guy aka Betta.

I did create a serparate thread here about it: http://ovas.ca/index.php?topic=31819.msg204461#msg204461

Let me know please. Thanks as always.

[dan2x38]

Place a sponge over the intake for the filter. Cut an 'X' into the sponge the depth it will slip over the intake. This can also reduce the output flow. If that is not reduced enough I take a piece of tubing or somthing else and place under the elbow of the intake tube. This will lift the tube a little from the impellers suction power reducing intake so reducing output. You can mess around with how much you lift the tube from the impeller to reduce water flow.

The java fern roots are brown. It should already be tied down. I use fishing line but some use cotton thread it eventually dissolves. You can also use a staple gun the staples eventually just rust away creates a little iron in the water.

Remember to rinse out the sponge over the intake from time to time.

[pminister]

The java fern roots are brown. It should already be tied down.

I got the sponge it was working great, though unfortunately the Betta killed to of my swordtails. So it is back to the dog pound, aka the vase it was originally in.

As far as the Java Fern, should just clip the tip of the plantlet? And just tie that up to a rock or wood correct.

[pminister]

Hello All,

Just want your input on this light I bought, it is a 15w 7K Daylight 18" T6 Lamp. Just curious to know if it will help provide proper light for the plants in my tank, though my tank does look pretty cool with the new lights. But that is besides the point.

Plant wise I have Java Fern, Hornwort, and my new addition Water Wisteria. I don't have any special substrate, and no co2, just dosed with Seachem Flourish today. Other then that a very simple 10 gallon setup.

[charlie]

Hello All,

Just want your input on this light I bought, it is a 15w 7K Daylight 18" T6 Lamp. Just curious to know if it will help provide proper light for the plants in my tank, though my tank does look pretty cool with the new lights. But that is besides the point.

Plant wise I have Java Fern, Hornwort, and my new addition Water Wisteria. I don't have any special substrate, and no co2, just dosed with Seachem Flourish today. Other then that a very simple 10 gallon setup.

It would be fine for plants.The preferred spectrum range is 5000 K - 10000K,  your light is 7000K, which fits the bill perfectly.

[pminister]

The preferred spectrum range is 5000 K - 10000K

That is what it was suggested while i was reading around, though to what mainly people had was around the 6700k range. The only thing i was getting confused was the color range, b/c to what i was reading a believe the plants photosynthesize in the blue n red color range better. But one or the other is fine, as well to what the appeal a person wants is also a factor guess.

I know u said that the 7000k fits the bill, but do u think i should stick with it or change it to another spectrum if it will serve it better for the plants?

Thanks Again.

[charlie]

That is what it was suggested while i was reading around, though to what mainly people had was around the 6700k range. The only thing i was getting confused was the color range, b/c to what i was reading a believe the plants photosynthesize in the blue n red color range better. But one or the other is fine, as well to what the appeal a person wants is also a factor guess.

I know u said that the 7000k fits the bill, but do u think i should stick with it or change it to another spectrum if it will serve it better for the plants?

Thanks Again.

changing to another colour temp. in the 5000 - 10000 K range will not affect your plants in any significant way ( in my view, i`m sure they are theories out there that will tell you otherwise), it`s all about what visually appeals to you, in short if you like the look of the 7000 k, keep it.

[pminister]

Well the look of it sure, beats the fluorescent stock light i had with the tank. Aside from having your light in the range 5k-10k, the rest just goes to the appeal of things then right?  Guess the real growth starts to take into account when, you start toying with the wattage for your tank, co2, etc? correct?

Btw dosing with Seachem Flourish should be fine, in replacing extra nutrients for the plants i have right? At least what Danx and some friends suggested, b/c for one my java fern got some diatom break out. 2nd since hornwort n wisteria are known to suck up excess nutrients, figure S.Flourish would fit in place 

Thanks Again

[charlie]

Well the look of it sure, beats the fluorescent stock light i had with the tank. Aside from having your light in the range 5k-10k, the rest just goes to the appeal of things then right?  Guess the real growth starts to take into account when, you start toying with the wattage for your tank, co2, etc? correct?

Thanks Again

That is all relative to the type of plants , example you can have a ton of lights , co2, nutrients , but if the type of plants you keep are slow growers( Java fern, Anubias etc) you are most likely going to have a algae bloom - lots of nutrients( light, carbon  NPk & Traces) but slow uptake by the plants , rendering it easily available to algae.In short you the hobbyist needs to balance the plants with nutrients.

Btw dosing with Seachem Flourish should be fine, in replacing extra nutrients for the plants i have right? At least what Danx and some friends suggested, b/c for one my java fern got some diatom break out. 2nd since hornwort n wisteria are known to suck up excess nutrients, figure S.Flourish would fit in place 

When you say Seachem Flourish - exactly which Flourish are you dosing ? Flourish traces, Flourish comprehensive, again it`s about balance, plants need macro nutrients Light Carbon/NPK ( Nitrate, Phosphate & Potassium) & Micro nutrients ( Trace elements), yes Light & Carbon are also macro nutrients.
Both Flourish Traces & Comprehensive are more Micro nutrients, the amount of each nutrient is dependent on the available light , & type of plants.
Regards

[charlie]

Here is something to keep in mind regarding dosing nutrients.
Your tank by nature will have nutrients available in the water column, by way of fish excretion & food decay, in a non planted tank we need to export that by water changes to keep the levels low, so as not to have a algae bloom.
In a planted tank, those naturally available nutrients become food for the plants, we only need to supplement that ( by adding ferts etc.)when the growth condition of the plants exhaust the naturally available nutrients.
Hope that makes sense 

[Saltcreep]

On the inside I use a razor blade. ......

Just to expand on the razor blade idea. Those cheap (inexpensive) long-handled scrapers with the plastic scraping surface sold by BA and others are actually designed to hold razor blades. In fact, they used to be sold with a blade in them. I went in to get one at Big Als about a year ago and while at the cash a staff member tried to sell me on the benefits of the much more expensive metal-bladed scrapers. The look on his face when I told him "this $5 item will work just fine after I install the razor blade" was worth the ride.

[RossW]

Just to expand on the razor blade idea. Those cheap (inexpensive) long-handled scrapers with the plastic scraping surface sold by BA and others are actually designed to hold razor blades. In fact, they used to be sold with a blade in them. I went in to get one at Big Als about a year ago and while at the cash a staff member tried to sell me on the benefits of the much more expensive metal-bladed scrapers. The look on his face when I told him "this $5 item will work just fine after I install the razor blade" was worth the ride.

I am not 100% sure what $5 item you are speaking of.  Could you be so kind as to provide a link?

Thanks,
Ross

[pminister]

That is all relative to the type of plants / Easily available to algae / Flourish Comprehensive

Wow just when you think you topped up yourself on information, you aint done yet. lol All these lil nit bits are intertwined with each other, i guess that is why i am getting confused with one or the other. But so far things are coming, into a clear picture. What i bought yesterday along with my light was "Seachem Flourish Comprehensive", which is micro nutrients to what you said as well as what it says on the bottles.

http://www.seachem.com/Products/product_pages/Flourish.html

lol I almost want to go back to the store, and return this product.  I need to visit my local library, and read read read...

But before we jump to conclusions, i got Flourish Comprehensive b/c i had diatom build up on the Java Fern. And i also just washed it off tap water, then treated it with dichlorinated water, then Flourish. As well as on some parts of my glass in my aquarium, now that can be just scraped off.  Other then that... i know about diatoms that they appear on new starter tanks, as well it is due to lack of proper light. And some cases of low nutrients.

I guess my only concern is that i rely on information off people, to what i research, and my own judgment. In a way like any other hobby it is trial and error in some ways, or just by noticing deficiency then acting on it to provide proper care for the plants.

Hmmm..... I should take a crash course on botany, especially for aquatic plants. lol

I need break..........right now. lol