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Yet Another Heater - KABOOM!!

Started by Saltcreep, April 05, 2011, 02:28:56 PM

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Saltcreep

I was just sitting here doing some online research for an upcoming trip, and I hear a very loud 'Pop'. At the same time, out of the corner of my eye, a bright white flash of light. Something wrong in the planted cube tank, obviously. Couldn't have been the lighting circuit because they don't click on until 5:00. The tank has been reclaimed from SW and I'm still running the filtration and heater in the sump. Here's a pic of the heater, blown clearly into two parts, with glass bits everywhere, no doubt. I'll have to watch my fingers when I go poking around in there. This one was a Rena Top-Light. There's another thread over in FW discussions where we've noted just how common this really is. I think this is at least 5 or 6 for me. I know I've lost Jaeger/Eheim, Marineland, Fluval, Tetra, Stealth, and now a Rena. Can't wait for summer when the ambient temperature in basement fishroom will be a nice 75 degrees or a little more. This is the only tank in the room that really needs the extra heat, so another tank will be cooling down for a week or so.


Hookup

Very sorry to hear that, but here's where you went Wong...

Quote from: Saltcreep on April 05, 2011, 02:28:56 PM
I was just sitting here doing some online research for an upcoming trip, and I hear a very loud 'Pop'. At the same time, out of the corner of my eye, a bright white flash of light. Something wrong in the planted cube tank, obviously. Couldn't have been the lighting circuit because they don't click on until 5:00. The tank has been reclaimed from SW and I'm still running the filtration and heater in the sump. Here's a pic of the heater, blown clearly into two parts, with glass bits everywhere, no doubt. I'll have to watch my fingers when I go poking around in there. This one was a Rena Top-Light. There's another thread over in FW discussions where we've noted just how common this really is. I think this is at least 5 or 6 for me. I know I've lost Jaeger/Eheim, Marineland, Fluval, Tetra, Stealth, and now a Rena. Can't wait for summer when the ambient temperature in basement fishroom will be a nice 75 degrees or a little more. This is the only tank in the room that really needs the extra heat, so another tank will be cooling down for a week or so.


Yep, definatley your problem....  :P


And seriously, glad to hear no losses... As you know, better than most, it's a dangerous and bad thing whe it happens....

laffy


Saltcreep

Nope, haven't tried Titanium. I'm about ready to move on to Dynamite, though.

bitterman

I have titanium heaters with heater controllers for my larger tanks.

Titanium are suppose to last longer, transfer heater to the water better etc. but need to ensure they  cool down before removing from water as they will burn out.  I never worry as my sump always has water in it and I use a drip water change system on my FW tanks.

Bruce

Saltcreep

#5
Quote from: bitterman on April 05, 2011, 07:34:59 PM
I have titanium heaters with heater controllers for my larger tanks.

Titanium are suppose to last longer, transfer heater to the water better etc. but need to ensure they  cool down before removing from water as they will burn out.  I never worry as my sump always has water in it and I use a drip water change system on my FW tanks.

Bruce

The big difference here is that those Titaniums are just a big element, nothing else. The heater is controlled externally. That system definitely removes the failure possibilities prevalent in the cheaper heaters with bi-metallic contact systems. I don't know much about these controllers. Are they fail-safe? Is anything?

I'm not even sure that overheating or contacts sticking was the problem here. The tank was at about the correct temperature, if not a bit cooler than usual, so the element hadn't been on for a long time. Believe me, that's the first thing I checked. I've got to look at it closer, but the way it broke, and actually exploded, makes me wonder if there wasn;t some kind of a short in the coil itself. Or it could have been actual infiltration of water into the heater. One small drop of water on a hot coil could produce enough steam pressure to break the glass tube, I would think.

bitterman

They are not 100% fail safe but the ranco controllers I use are very realable and used to control comercial refrigeration.

If you are worried you coudl run 2 one always on and set to turn off at the max temp you want and the other for setting your real temp.

Some people use noraml heaters with the controllers and set the heaters to say 81F and using the temperature controller to turn off at 78 and on again at 77 so if the controller stuck ont he thremistate in the heater would turn it off.

Many ways to do things.

Bruce

FishBuddy

Ever since all my Jager, Stealth, Fluvaltronic and others broke on me, I've decided to go with titanium heater with an external controller.  So far, they worked great...  I don't think I'll ever go back to submersible heaters.  For one thing, I could change my temperature easily without having to stick my hand into the water and remove the heater everytime.  It costs a bit more but well worth it...

And no more exploding glass tubes either :) 


    [li]72 gal bow: various exotic cichlids
    [/li]



Saltcreep

Most likely a controller with remote heaters is the way to go. The problem I have is one of logistics. There are curently nine tanks spaced around the perimeter of a 24' X 30' fishroom with two of those tanks in a wall. It would be easy to control the two in-wall tanks with one controller, but what about the others? The idea of centralized systems was to avoid electrical extension cords and airlines running all over the place.

bitterman

Heat the room... will be cheaper in the end and more reliable.

Bruce

Toss

Quote from: Saltcreep on April 05, 2011, 07:56:22 PM
but the way it broke, and actually exploded, makes me wonder if there wasn;t some kind of a short in the coil itself. Or it could have been actual infiltration of water into the heater. One small drop of water on a hot coil could produce enough steam pressure to break the glass tube, I would think.

That's exactly what happened. Not even a drop. A little sign of internal condensation is enough to make it explode. Some old heater usually has a very small leak over time.
75 gal - Mosquito rasbora, Bushynose pleco, RCS
9 gal - CRS
40 gal - Longfin Albino Bushynose pleco, RCS

Hookup

I just had a pump go electrical in my mixing bucket this week... went to test the water and got a good shocker...

it's crazy how much the gear we have sucks... and it's only on 15amp circuits... lol...

Korilia something something with two impellers is zapp'n me... about 9months old... boooooo

Saltcreep

Quote from: bitterman on April 06, 2011, 07:22:41 AM
Heat the room... will be cheaper in the end and more reliable.

Bruce

Yep, I can see this happening. First I've got to get doors on it and insulate the joist spaces.