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New Rimless Build

Started by ataller, July 04, 2012, 11:45:29 PM

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ataller

Tank is 48x30x18, basement sump.

More to come...






Adam

Achilles

Very clean set up. Very nice so far. What kind of lighting fixture is that?. Can't wait see the rockscape and live stock.

ataller

Filling with RODI as we speak.

Light is an 8 bulb 4 foot Sfiligoi Stealth T5 Fixture. Actively cooled. Similar to the ATI. Glass shield instead of plastic which is nice. I believe the ATI produces better par, purchased this light from another reefer for a great price though.

External overflow, only drilled for 2 bulkheads, each 2". Going to try and setup herbie style drain, which utilizes a siphon and a backup. I do not have three holes for a proper beananimal.



xenon

I love the dimensions of the tank!

I am looking forward to your updates. :)

ataller

Quote from: xenon on July 06, 2012, 12:20:18 AM
I love the dimensions of the tank!

I am looking forward to your updates. :)

Thanks, I was tired of getting my shoulder wet reaching the bottom of my last tank. 18" should be a breeze.

redbelly

Very clean.
Very nice.

Is that electrical conduit for the light hanger?

Any pics of the basement sump.

DrReefer

Quote from: redbelly on July 07, 2012, 11:53:57 AM

Any pics of the basement sump.

+1 for the basement sump pics ;D

ataller

LR is in, so are the fish I had in the basement, with a couple corals that I had left. All of my SPS died, ah well, means I am in the market for frags again.

Basement is a mess right now. Once everything clears up in the tank, and once I clean up the basement a bit I will post some pictures.

Redbelly,  I think it is electrical conduit yes, I had it left over from my old tank, I am not exactly sure what it is. I painted it with Killz. It is metal... you would think it wouldn't hold up the light, but it held up the 3 250watt MH fixture which was just as heavy for years.

Adam

ataller

BTW, the herbie overflow, (beananimal without the open drain) is 100% silent, and was relatively easy to dial in, just took about 20 trips down to the basement and back to adjust and then see what was going on.

I had some trouble with the siphon restarting, cut my siphon so that it was only about 1/2" under the water, problem solved.

redbelly

I have seen electrical conduit used before, but one solid piece bent at 90 degrees.

Here is a pic from Matts tank where he used 1/2" conduit.




I was thinking of doing either this design or your design for a radion on a nano i just built.
Thanks for posting the pics!

ataller

I probably would have bent something like Matt did if I had any talent/skill/equipment.


Buying two brackets and a prefab 90 was easier for me, though probably uglier.

Btw Pat I PM'd you, one of my MP40s needs a repair.

Speaking of repair, that is the third thing so far... My Apex display unit's backlight broke, and my bubble blaster pump for my SRO3000 needed to be sent back.


redbelly

Yeah, Matt worked as an electrician so he had the tools.
Plus bunding 1/2" would me MUCH easier that 1" I would think.

The 1/2" did sag a bit under the weight of the poermodule as they are rather heavy.
If you do decide to bend one down the road, bend it a few degrees under 90 and the weight will pull it down.


pm sent.

ataller

First here is an update on the display. As you can see I have very few corals left.

I am quite proud of my screen top, I fit it exactly to fit inside the frame, as to not disurb the rimless look of the tank as much as possible. This frame will be crucial as I plan on having this tank mostly stocked with docile wrasses that like to jump.

Excuse the blue photos, only my evening blue+ T5s were on.






Screen Top

ataller

Here is some more info about the sump.

First here is an overview.

Garbage pail holds RODI that is automatically topped off from my filter via a float valve. Just in case the float valve fails there is a bulkhead and drain leading to my sump pump.



Here are my reactors. They are plumbed off the return (which is an old Reeflo Wahoo that has not let me down in 3 years of 24 hour a day pumping). Manifold is 3/4" that leads to 1/2" gate valves. I would like to hard plumb the reactor in with PVC .

(1) GAC [ROX from BRS]
(2) Reef Octopus BR-110 Biopellet reactor with BRS biopellets
(3) Empty but I will use for GFO if the biopellets cannot keep up




Here is the left side of the sump. You can see 2 1.5" drains. The one with the gate valve is the siphon, and the one beside it is the open backup drain.

Everything is powered off an EB8 which is the powerbar used for the Apex controller.

Skimmer is a Super Reef Octopus 3000 INT. Great skimmer. Really it is great.

Two Drew's dosers dose calcium and alk. Calcium and alk are recipe one from Bulk Reef Supply.



Here is a sump overview.

Upper left is a square that my overflow drains into which keeps the level constant for the siphon and makes it easy to place filter sock. Next is the skimmer section. There is a 500w finnex heater in there. Next are two misc sections. The upper one I have a DSB in with some rubble. The lower one is for my skimmer drain so the skimmer does not keep skimming the same water. I am planning on putting some Live Rock in there. Finally is my return section with my Tunze Osmolator ATO and two more heaters. The pH, temp, and ORP probes are in the baffles between the last two sections.



As you can see when you use a siphon overflow there are *zero* bubbles/microbubbles. No bubbles and no sound, there is no other way to go.

Adam

ataller

Still to come...

I am getting an automatic neck cleaner for the skimmer.

I also have yet to receive my apex display module back as the LED burnt out.

As well, my 2nd vortech is still non functional. Hopefully I will have a replacement driver soon. One day I plan on running a gyre system with 4 vortechs so I can spin the tank clockwise and then counter clockwise.

....

NanoSF

How are you holding that screen top up? There doesn't seem to be any clips holding it. Is it just jammed in there tight?

ataller

Yup just friction.

It isnt in there all that tight, I wanted to be able to take it off and put it back on easily.


NanoSF

I have the same screen top on a rimless and I found these clear plastic clips that are barely noticeable on ebay. They slip over the rimless glass edge and provide a shelf to sit the screen top onto. Here is the post where I showed this part of my set up.

http://ovas.ca/forum/index.php?topic=52544.msg294459#msg294459

az

AQUA VALLEY    
1158 Ogilvie Road, Ottawa

2016 Hours
Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri >> 12-7pm
Sat, Sun >> 11-5pm
Mon >> CLOSED
Tel: 613 695 6961 Fax: 613 695 6532  
www.aquavalley.ca

Ottawa's BIGGEST SALTWATER Selection

Tel: 613 695 6961 Fax: 613 695 6532     www.aquavalley.ca

ataller



  No clips, no magnets. The screen top sits in there with friction alone. I spent a good amount of time sizing the frame exactly. I can slip the top in and out with relative ease, and yet when it is in there it is solid.


NanoSF

I'm surprised that it is easy to take it out when it is jammed in there tight enough to not fall down, not to mention not scratching the glass. Glad it worked out for you I would have never thought about doing it that way.

AZ magnets wouldn't work because screen frame is aluminium.

ataller

Tight but not that tight.

And scratching is not an issue because only the plastic corners are really all that tight. The aluminum frame pretty flexible.

Hookup

Quote from: ataller on July 14, 2012, 08:23:56 PM

  No clips, no magnets. The screen top sits in there with friction alone. I spent a good amount of time sizing the frame exactly. I can slip the top in and out with relative ease, and yet when it is in there it is solid.



Nice...  Well planned and executed... 

NanoSF

Oh I see it now (in my head that is ;D) The plastic corners on the silicone of the tank corners. That is pretty clever.

ataller

Picked up a copperband and an ornate leopard wrasse from Az yesterday.

Once the moonlights came on, the ornate came out. Bad news though. She couldnt swim properly, like her head was too heavy, kept nose diving into everything.

I am hoping she is dazed from transport, and not poisoned with cyanide.

This morning I woke up looking for a body but it appears as if she buried herself again. I guess time will tell. 

Copperband is cute anyways, going to get him some blackworms, Critter Jungle has got them in for me before.


xenon


ataller


kole18

My CBB like brine mix/ spirulina won't take reg. brine or mysis. Sometimes I don't QT my fish only when I see it's in bad shape or sign of ich . Hey try blood worms that's also I feed my CBB & my wrasse too.

Wolf

can you tell me where you bought that fish,thanks.

kole18

He says at aqua valley to az, the store located in ogilve st. Laurent .

ataller

Quote from: kole18 on July 15, 2012, 03:06:51 PM
My CBB like brine mix/ spirulina won't take reg. brine or mysis. Sometimes I don't QT my fish only when I see it's in bad shape or sign of ich . Hey try blood worms that's also I feed my CBB & my wrasse too.

Kole,
  Try blackworms, you can get critter jungle to bring them in for you. They are much more nutritional than bloodworms. You can only get them live as far as I know. Gross but very effective. I used them when I weaned my multibanded dwarf angel onto prepared foods.

And Yes I buy pretty much all my fish at aqua valley.

Slider777

Hey,

Just curious where you got your plumbing from, specifically the gate valves that branch off to your reactors? I'd like to do something similar by running my reactors off my return pump.

Thanks!

ataller

I get the PVC fittings from PVC industrial.

U 29 174 Colonnade Rd S
Nepean‎ ON‎ K2E 7J5
Canada

Bulk reef supply is also pretty much one stop shopping for PVC fittings.


Slider777

Awesome Thanks!

Great tank by the way!!

ataller

Thanks,

I made some changes in the basement (plumbed in a 70G rubbermaid stock tank) and added some frags (zoas and sps) to the display I will try and get some pictures up.

Adam