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SPS Colouring up

Started by JetJumper, August 14, 2011, 11:52:50 PM

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JetJumper

So after a while I think I have finally started to get my chemistry right in my tank that my SPS is starting to like me.  Here are a few shots of some pieces I have in my system.







I am still having issues with some, like a Blue Pokerstar Monti.. I still have to hook up my carbon.. Running 250ml of Biopellets currently, might have to up that soon to 500ml since I have had them running for 6+weeks now and the cycling from that is complete.  The only dosing I do is with Biocal Powder and I do that atleast once a week, sometimes twice.

Any tips for pokerstar?
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JetJumper

Pictures vs what you see with your eyes are a bit different obviously.. The first picture looks better in person.. haha
.: JetJumper's Zone :.

Hookup

Potassium will likely help loads.  You can dose it.   FaunaMarin has the stuff

However. High levels of Mg can really affect this coral.

What are your params.

I found
Dkh 7.4
Ca 380
Mg 1350
SG 1.024
Temp 79*
pH 8.1

Gave the best results. Though I am having issues keeping things there at the moment.

JetJumper

I am going to run some tests again tonight when I get home to have the most accurate parameters.

These are from last time I checked:

Ca 420
Mg 1350
SG 1.026
Temp 82 (Difficult to keep cooler at the moment with out some retrofitting)
pH 8.1
Dkh N/A
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RossW

That temp scares me... IMHO you are only 2-3 degrees away from potential disaster.

I twice experienced severe RTN due to temp swings to 83-85.  I am not sure if it was the swing, or the end point, but each time it happened it was not pretty.

JetJumper

Quote from: RossW on August 15, 2011, 10:11:45 AM
That temp scares me... IMHO you are only 2-3 degrees away from potential disaster.

I twice experienced severe RTN due to temp swings to 83-85.  I am not sure if it was the swing, or the end point, but each time it happened it was not pretty.


It never goes over 82F and the A/C in my house is always on.  There are plans for a better method.. but thats a bit away still.
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redbelly

What is your alk at?

If you dont have a test kit for this I would definately recomend getting one. Testing your alk is the most important imo as its the parameter that can change the fastest.

JetJumper

I have an Elos kit for it.. I will check after work.
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JetJumper

Alk = 5.. hmm.. too low...
Phosphates = 0.14 on hanna checker  too high... I want to get that down to around 0.03-0.04.  I need to implement the algae scrubber in this tank I think.. haha.
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JetJumper

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Hookup

alk burn buddy.. that's crazy low (i've been there too often.. so i'm not calling the kettle black)

target 7.4

and phosphates are getting way up there...

JetJumper

Got any tips for Alk control other then using a dosing pump system?  Don't have one, can't afford one right now.
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NanoSF

Are we talking 5 Dkh or meq?  If meq which some test kits are, that would be high (1 meq = 2.8 so your dkh would be 14).

As far a dosing. You could still dose without all the pumps and controllers. It is time consuming and tedious, but until you get a system it will work.

JetJumper

The elos kit said it measured in dKh.

It took 10 drops to change 5ml of test water to the colour they indicated in the instructions.

http://c3.f3images.com/IMD/UserManuals/EO4123.pdf

Each drop being 0.5 Degree KH.

time for more research.. haha.. never ending in this hobby.
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Hookup

step 4 -

"Each drop of reagent corresponds to one degree of hardness.  The total number of the drops used equals the total hardness of the solution in *dKH for example 8 drops = 4 *dKH"

wait, what?  since when does 8 = 4?

LOL... these guys put the K in quality.

and for the record, it's not just these guys... 99% of the test-kits are like this...


So 10 drops = 10 *dKH? or 5*dKH?


NanoSF

Ya my test kit is each drop is .5 meq/L. So 10 drops is 5 meq/L x 2.8 to get Dhk. Interesting that one drop in one kit is .5 meq, and one drop in another is .5 dhk. Exact same process but two totally different measures.

NanoSF

BTW I just did mine after reading this and with only using half a scoop of bio-cal per day in 30 gallons, plus 20 gallons fuge, I got 8 drops. 4 meq/L 11.2 Dkh. Calcium is at about 400 (now that is a test I find very hard to read and get accurate).

Hookup

Quote from: NanoSF on August 16, 2011, 10:51:46 AM
BTW I just did mine after reading this and with only using half a scoop of bio-cal per day in 30 gallons, plus 20 gallons fuge, I got 8 drops. 4 meq/L 11.2 Dkh. Calcium is at about 400 (now that is a test I find very hard to read and get accurate).

Salifert's CA is good...
Saliferts Mg is HOOOOOOOIIIIIBBBBLLLEEEEE    The titration color change is not easy to spot... until you're 3 drops or so past it.. (which btw, is the only way I can get it to work... when I think it changes, i mark it, then add a few more drops to see when/if it really changes hard... ) /sigh.

The Hanna Ca checker is accurate... been double-testing (Salifert and Hanna) and I've found them equally stable and accurate.  But you have to be insanely careful with the Hanna when you add the sample ...


JetJumper

There is apparently a misprint.. But.. There are 2 ways to test as well.  2.5ml of tank water, the drop is equal to 1dKh and if you use 5ml its 0.5dKh.  I used 5ml of tank water and 10 drops.  This is all according to posts of reef central and other random forums.

Hanna Checkers are sweet, but $$$$$$$$
.: JetJumper's Zone :.

NanoSF

So you are at 10 Dkh then basically. That's good.

I use Seachem for Mag and Cal test kits. I find them finicky and requiring a very high level of precision. I mean there is one stage in one of them (can't remember which one) that you have to fill to a line but the bottom of the concave liquid level needs to be at the line, not the top edges of the liquid line. One drop goes from below this line to too far above the line. It's ridiculous.

And with the Calcium one ml of reagent is 50mg/L difference in calcium. That is a big difference. It is hard to know exaclty how much is left in the syringe because of how much is in the tip, and other possible error factors. So you are estimating a bit on a measure that means a difference of 400 mg/L or 350 mg/L. Well that is pretty useless.