Upgrading from 33g to 75g

[dan2x38]

This is my first venture into the marine world of aquaria. I started reseraching and asking questions more than 2 years ago. Since last Oct. 09 began collecting bits and pieces. By Boxing Day I was ready to setup.

Here is the tank before being switched over-




This is the tank empty and drilled with 2 x 1.5" holes-




Collected glass from my neighbours trash with their permission. Cut and silconed in place. The centre chamber is the return, left input/skimmer chamber and right side the refugium. Pulled out the baffles once after more research. If my fuge spilled into my skimmer chamber I would loss copepodes and other critters. I placed a 'T' on the return with a ball valve so the pump can be throttled back without affecting the pump this also would feed the fuge. I would later mod that (more on that later). Since it was an in stand sump I wanted the return in the centre the door opening was only 12" wide-




Painted the back but didn't want it black or the common blue used. So went with an aqua colour-




This is after painting and ready to be plumbed-



Being my first trip down the salty path I knew there would be changes. So decided to use vinyl tubing and hose barbs. Glad I did I've made many mods. Also I was told add several ball valves you will be glad you did - I sure was-




I used a Coralife 125 Super Skimmer to start, return pump is a Rio 2500 and the fuge is approx. 2.5 gallons with 4" deep sand bed with Carbia Sea Aragamax-




Finally up & runnning with: 40 lbs of Carbia Sea Aragonite, 35 - 40 lbs LR, used a spraybar at first on the return, added 3 MJ 2 x 900 & a 600 also an in tank 24w UV sterilizer. The lighting was a daul 24" T8 fixture with 2 x 6700k & an 18" T8 True Atinic. Most would change in time. There is no livestock but the LR was cured-




4 days after setup things cleared up nicely-




The setup to date complete with active CUC, fish, shrimp and other inverts. The power heads were upgraded, spraybar removed and UV sterilizer added to new sump (more on that later). Added a 36" 4 bulb Tek Light with: 25/75 Atinic, 10,000k, 14,000k & True Atinic-





Stay tuned more to follow but on upgrade - this is hard work... LOL

[QueensU]

I have the same tank and stand!

[mikerobart]

Nicely done looks well thought out.

[dan2x38]

The first group of pics is just the initial 33g Bowfront setup. Most of it was basic since it was a first time project and I knew there would be changes needed. My original plan was to replace the setup using my 65g hi-tech planted tank in the new year and moving all that contents to the 75g. Sitting staring at my prized planted tank and my 75g Malawi cichlid tank I changed my mind. Never would have I believed I'd leave the plant world for salt & rocks (cichlid setup)! Using the 65g would have been easy for the lighting I had already bought the Tek 36" but the stand was to small and no way to add a sump. So it was final cichlids move from 75g to 65g sell off hi-tech planted stuff and make the 75g my marine setup. But do it now before the new year. 

Before I moved forward a major deciding factor would be if I would be able to trade in my 36" Tek Light only a few weeks old used less than 8 hrs a day for the 4' 6 bulb Tek Light? Well I was able to so this really made it possible. In fact it was necessary a project make or break deal. Special thanks goes out to Ray.

Below is the 65g Hi-Tech planted tank. I had to sell all of this which went into the marine build: 5 bags eco-complete substrate, 40w cable heater under the substrate, pressurized CO2 on timer, 160 watts of light, 304 & 204 Fluval filters, Aqua Clear 70 HOB filter, 250w Stealth heater, DIY inline CO2 diffuser with many plants of course. There were Cardinals, Rummynose, Apistos, Sterbai Cories, Starlight BN Pelco, BN Pelco, Mega Clown BN Pelco and Flagtail catfish. This is one of the last photos I had of it-




This is the 75g Malawi cichlid tank before I shut it down. Below it is the 65g today the new Malawi cichlid tank less plants and new substrate. I had to sell off some plants and the substrate which was from Carbia Sea-






I decided to make a new sump so bought a 30g from the classifieds. It was nasty took a while to clean it-




My neighbour is renovating so she through out a pile of windows. With their permission I removed several panes then cut and cleaned  6 pieces for my new sump-




The stand for the 75g is an old one I was given and had already modded it to make it stronger. It would need to be cut for the 36" x 12" x 18" tank to fit under it. From the back I had to cut out a section of the panel one each side-




The stand had a false floor inside almost 4" high off the outside floor so the tank would barely fit with room for me to work in the sump. I had to break out that false floor-




Here is the stand with the false floor removed and the back cut out for the sump to fit-




The stand would need to be reinforced after removing part of the rear panels they were part of the support structure. I used pressure treated 2 x 2 way stronger than what they use when the stands are new. The 2 rear posts are held in with brackets so they can be easily removed-




Each day I siliconed in a new piece for 6 days. With the height of the fuge spilling into the return I added 2 bubble traps. There are three chambers. The centre is for the return, the left is the refugium and the right the input chamber - it will sit oppsite this in the stand. I calculated enough free space to handle my overflow if there is power outage. The fuge is 10% of my display 7.7 gal. after a 4" deep sand bed is added using Crabia Sea Aragamax. In this design the return pump will still divert water from a 'Tee' to the fuge but I added a 'Tee' with a 1/2" reducer on one over flow line with a ball valve to feed directly into the fuge. This is to feed the copepodes, stomatella varia snails, other critters and cheato macro algae before the water gets skimmed. Again I wanted the return in the middle easy water replacement from evaporation and maintenance-




Finally the sump fits nicely under the stand-




Bought a Deltec AP600 from Ray great deal! Sold off the Coralife 125 Super Skimmer. Only issue with this the Deltec was bought before the change over. It is an external recirculation model. It was setup to feed and drain to the left. When I changed over the setup would require it to be setup draining and being feed from the right. Also since the new sump was taller it would have to be elevated. So more plumbing. drilled side in the stand and built a box for it to stand on. Mind you this is bit messy but the build is still under construction. In the end there will be a small cabinet to hide the skimmer and power source-




With some help from a friend and long time OVAS member Brine I would move my 33g Bowfront on to the 75g stand until the 75g was finished. The new sump was being circulated by a Fluval 204 with 2" of Agramax in the fuge and some macro algae already in the fuge. This would mature the new sump. I removed the DSB from the old sump in layers and saved each layer in a separte container. I added it back in reverse order so the layers were added as they sat originally in the old fuge. I tried to preserve as much live as possible in the sand. Then drained 4/5 of the water out and stored it in bins, buckets and pots (wife loved this step - NOT). Moved all the LR into a bin to sustain it until tank moved and water added back. We moved the tank easily with the livestock still in it so they were stressed little as possible. Then I connected all the plumbing. There were a few small mods for length but for the most part it was plug n' play. It looks odd a 30" wide tank on 48" stand with a 4' light. Lets just say I have enough light for now-




I still have to complete the over flow, drilling, painting the back, plumbing, more substrate, more LR and eventually more livestock. I really want a Blue Powder Tang another Royal Gramma. Will add to the invert list plus want to include a clam. Of course the CUC will get a popluation infussion.

I am going with a coast to coast over flow in smoked glass with black silcone. This will be the 'V' shaped sytle. There will be 2 x 1.5" drains (that's right not 3) it looks like complements of Pat from Ottawa Inverts great prices and close by. Pat/Trina also have a lot of plumbing parts in stock so will be filling my plumbing shopping list there and from Lowes (also great prices). I will be using some PVC Spa Flex Pipe and the return will be 3/4" vinyl with Loc-Line into the display.

So stay tuned for the next steps or should I say next expenses...

OH by the way Holachicka convinced me to start this build thread thanks for nothing this is alot of work. But not as much as doing it first hand... LOL I can't wait.

[salvini55]

sounds like Its going to be sweeeeet    75 gallon, 6bulb tek... sounds like equipment I would purchase. 

[Severum]

Nice build. The 75 will look great and enormous compared to your 33.

I eagerly await your progress as I'm interested in sporting the new V style overflow.

[dan2x38]

Took all my rough pencil drawings and made a final draft diagram of my plumbing. Not the best but if you click on it should get the idea.

It is a coast to coast 'V' style internal over flow with 2 x 1.5" drains - 1 full syphon stand pipe & 1 open channel stand pipe. The return will come over the top into a Loc-Line 'Y' spilt 2 x 1/2" lines with flares over the edge of the C2C just under the water. As mentioned the sump can handle any possible over flow due to power outage. There is also a swing door check valve in line for a little backup especially during water changes.

Not adding a 3rd stand pipe as emergency stand pipe. I made all the calculations for the sump's free space to hold any water that would syphon through the return line or from the over flow during a power outage.




My biggest next expense will be the additional LR needed. I have 35+ lbs will need 80+ lbs min. or close to 100lbs that means more than twice what I have now.

The smoked glass for the C2C - 1 piece 48" x 7" x 1/4" is $45 tax in smoothed edge. I will need some black silicone. The 1.5" 2 holes & bulkheads will be just under $100. The plumbing approx. $125.

Finally when transferred over I'll have a 33g bowfront, stand with the plumbing for sale minus pump & sump though. Already sold the old 20g sump.

Stay tuned hope to be doing the over flow next couple weeks then few weeks after that the plumbing. But family vacation will be interfering the final stages... My son's hockey camps too come first so crossing my fingers I'll get it done before fall... 

[JetJumper]

I love the Cheato Portion Drawing!

[dan2x38]

I love the Cheato Portion Drawing!

LOL The most time consuming part!

[holachicka]

LOL - That cheeto drawing made me laugh out loud!!!!

This is a great thread - who knew a plant guy can do such fine work!

I really like the look of the 33, can't wait to see the 75!!!!!!!

oh and, btw - Thanks for the shout out

[dan2x38]

After more discussion and some great advice from Pat (Ottawa Inverts) I made some changes to my plumbing diagram.

[Severum]

I'm happy you did not change the cheato. 

[holachicka]

me too - it was the only thing I could understand in that diagram

[dan2x38]

Posted some topics regarding my coast to coast over flow but they were moved to equipment/DIY. I really want to get opinions from experienced saltwater folks! Because it is for my upgrade to a 75g and my first coast coast overflow.

Really want the back to blend in with the over flow so it stands out little as possible. Check out these topics:

http://ovas.ca/index.php?topic=44898.0
http://ovas.ca/index.php?topic=44904.0
http://ovas.ca/index.php?topic=44704.0

They all involve creating a unique setup.

Tomorrow drop off the tank for drilling. Then next week will be getting the glass cut so need to decide which way to go. What do you guys think? Check out the posts if you missed them.

After this decision it will be time to plumb the tank.

[dan2x38]

Keep getting my saltwater questions regarding my coast to coast posted in Equipment/DIY and not everyone reads that board. This is my latest moved topic: http://ovas.ca/index.php?topic=44935.msg254656#msg254656

In your saltwater setup do you have an internal coast to coast over flow? OR an over flow that runs part way across the back of your marine tank? If you do I am curious if the overflow affects the output  of your expensive saltwater light fixture you bought for your raising corals in a reef tank? My proposed coast 2 coast will be approx. 5" wide I am concerned it will shadow my corals. In my saltwater setup my overflow will be a V shape but I am planning on painting it to match the back of my tank to hide the bulkheads.

Do any of you think this will affect my light output significantly? Have any of you in your saltwater setups had any issues like described above? Anyone have any suggestions to prevent any issues you think might be there in my propsoed setup? Really appreicate any advice this is all new to me don't want to waste money and time.

Of course there is the obvious suggestion move the light towards the front, etc. I am concerned with losing a lot of output from my new 6 bulb Tek Light.

[Hookup]

Keep getting my saltwater questions regarding my coast to coast posted in Equipment/DIY and not everyone reads that board.

I've given up trying to figure it out 

Threads like;  (all taken on the last 3 pages)

"over skimming" - http://ovas.ca/index.php?topic=44914.0
"Carbon / GFO reactor" - http://ovas.ca/index.php?topic=44861.0
"Where to get perspex to convert tank to sump" - http://ovas.ca/index.php?topic=44857.0
"Where to get plastic bags?" - http://ovas.ca/index.php?topic=44627.0
"sump quesiton?" - http://ovas.ca/index.php?topic=44204.0
"Fauna Marin Calculator released!" - http://ovas.ca/index.php?topic=44172.0
"Aquarium Shop in Montreal" - http://ovas.ca/index.php?topic=44138.0
"Sump Design" - http://ovas.ca/index.php?topic=44095.0

Do not get moved...

yet others are moved with ninja like speed...

I recognize it's volunteer work, but i'm confused at the criteria... I see posts get updated and the very next post gets moved...

It's not an issue for me, other than as you say Dan, some forums get more traffic than others.

[dan2x38]

It's not an issue for me, other than as you say Dan, some forums get more traffic than others.

Especially when you are looking for answers or suggestions from a certain group i.e. saltwater.

Either way hoping to get some ideas I almost ready for the next stage of my upgrade. Vacation is coming so want to get a bunch done before than afterwards will be even more broke... Another reason I want to make no mistakes redos are costly!

[dan2x38]

OK update on the next stage. Here are the new plumbing pieces almost $200 worth




Wanted to vent my drain pipes but didn't want to buy John Guest fittings so used the slip fit Teflon ones for $3. Used a 1/2" drill & tapped the end caps for them. Then will use 1/4" tubing to raise it a little bit. This way I can adjust for noise.






Really don't like the idea of leaving the bulkheads totally open. With a 'V' style coast to coast overflow I can't put on the usual screens they are not flat. After digging through the bits & pieces in Lowes I found some flat PVC 2" screens for floor drains. By removing the tabs and lots of filing rounded them off until they slip fit into the bulkheads. They are snug but come off easy enough to clean.






I did a lot of research to find paints that could be used inside your tank. Found the paints and was awaiting a call for one I needed to get started. My tank currently is not black or typical dark blue instead an aqua colour which is very nice. I was going for something similar but a little darker. The paint for inside was for the overflow piece of glass so you would not see the bulkheads. Then the night before I was to start the work on the tank laying in bed it occurred to me what if I wanted/needed a powerhead in the middle of the tank? The black cord and PH would stand out like crazy. So decided to go with the black. The overflow glass will be smoked glass to hide the bulkheads.






This is my helper or he thinks he is. This is after my son caught him trying to walk off with one of my parts... he is a character - my son too... LOL




The tank is dry and unmasked look fine just sitting over night. The plumbing is cemented together be several days gassing off the fumes. Pick up the glass for the coast to coast Monday will install that. Still more work and planning but a few more steps closer. Stay tuned to the to 'The Never Ending Story', of one more tank build. 

[Hookup]

Awesome photos Dan.... Highly impressive

[dan2x38]

Well almost there got the Coast to Coast siliconed half in. That was a trip I messed the silicone job so cut it out and redid...  I have 1/2 the water ready need another 20 gals. All the plumbing is done and the fumes have gassed off.

Bought some cool Macro Rock off of Pat @ Ottawa Inverts. Then used some DD aquascaping Epoxy from Ray to make a rock coloumn. I got the grey stuff. After it hardened coated it in film of silicone then put Aragamax sand over it to hide the epoxy. Once it coralines up it will never be noticed.

Will post a batch of pictures shortly. The story continues... 

[Rudy00]

I see you get towels from the general

[dan2x38]

I see you get towels from the general

Actually untrue! A friend shut down his business it was a garage. They buy rags and the old towels from there and some other locations end up in the bags of rags.  Many of the towels and even sheets are not reused.

[dan2x38]

OK here are more pictures of the upgrade. Hoping by Tue to have it up and running?

This is the tank today before I break it down next couple days.



Picked up some Macro Rock from Ottawa Inverts (Pat/Trina). After careful selection and messing up Trina's carpet found three cool pieces to create a coral rock tower. Below are the pieces. I used DD Aquascape Epoxy from Ray to stick the pieces together. Then the final picture coated the grey epoxy with silicone then covered it up with CaribSea Aragamax (sugar sand).








This is the tank after being painted, bulkheads installed with DIY screens, air relief vents and 'V' Coast to Coast Internal Overflow taped in place. Also had to clean all the tape gum from the original background on the tank this was the actual back of the tank this took much longer than you'd think it had been on there a couple years.



To reach in the bottom of the V and the side used a long balloon and wooden dowel of a dollar store Canada Day flag. Pulled the balloon over the dowel then use it to apply silicone to the tight corners. Only problem I made a bloody mess of it. Only thing to make it look proper was cut it out and start over. 



After cleaning off all the silicone took a 2 x 2 I had laying around that was less than 47" long. I measured the right distance from the top and taped the 2 x 2 in place. Now by hand held the glass at a right angle against the 2 x 2 and siliconed the glass to back of the tank. A trick is to use water and dip your finger in it to smooth the silicone keep an old rag handy to wipe the excess silicone off your finger. After that I placed what I was using to get the right depth of the 'V' a bottle of Primax. I laid the glass on the angle. Carefully and using the dowel siliconed the sides. Left this over night then in the morning taped off the outside siliconed in the seams and removed the tape right away pulling straight up. The glass is 5 mil x 47" x 7.5". The 'V' is 8" from top of trim to the outside bottom of the 'V'. The 'V' opening is 3.5" wide at the top. The top edge is 1/4" under the trim so you do not see the water level. I found no measurements anywhere these are determined by bits and pieces picked up from several builds online and from others I talked with.

[salvini55]

Lookin good! I wish I had that v style oerflow instead of the big ugly box style in my tank.

[Vincenzo.]

nice job dan, its coming alone nicely.

[karjean]

Looks good, looking forward to see the final product.

[dan2x38]

The switch over is under way. The 33g is torn down (soon to posted in c/f) and the 75 is in place. All the plumbing is connected. I have several pumps circulating the water with a heater and a Fluval 204 connected to clear it up. It's 1/2 full fish are in one rubbermaid & corals plus the other inverts are in another rubbermaid bin. Both are heated and circulating with Korlias. Just need to wait for it to clear more to add the rest of the rock. I am looking at a tank half full of milk... LOL BUT at least it's half full! 

Tank in Place




Plumbing in place. Have brackets but need to go back to Home depot for drywall anchors ones I got are to short. 




Tank circulating waiting for it to clear.




Rubbermaid containers holding fish, corals and all the inverts.

[dan2x38]

Well everything is transferred but still quite cloudy. I think my feather duster is done for though. I thought I had it out of the other tank but I didn't he was exposed to the air for a bit. Placed him in the new tank but it looks like he is dead the head is sort of wilted and a snail crawled on it. I moved it higher up but likely lost it...

The other issue and I was afraid of it my return pump isn't pumping enough. It is a Rio 2500 max. 750 gph. I need a Mag 9.5 or similar.

The other causality I broke the centre baffle out the bubble trap I built from the fuge to the return chamber in the sump. Since my fuge is so deep I created a trap for it to prevent bubbles getting into the pump. It will be OK since it is the centre baffle it was just and extra addition it will function fine without the centre piece.

When it clears up I'll have to move some rock around and the corals. After that will post the pictures.

There isn't enough flow quite yet but the overflow is dead silent for far.

[dan2x38]

Well the pump is fine... D'OH I have a switch that fits in the power bar the pump plugs into so I can turn it off and on easily for water changes. Well when I started it it ran for a bit but I didn't push it hard enough so it tripped off and I thought it wasn't pumping enough. Once I figured that out turned it on it works perfectly. It runs great and very quiet.

Here is a picture of it up and running almost cleared totally. Will likely move some rock around still. OH it looks like the feather duster will make it but it still looks a little peaked.

[attachment deleted by admin]

[salvini55]

TOP SHELF good sir

[dan2x38]

Below are pictures of the recent changes to the setup. As this goes along there are some little mods but for the most part the build has gone quite smooth *cross fingers*

My Firefish is starting to show himself but the Linkia Star is not looking any better...

The plumbing which includes 1.5" True Union Ball Valves is very heavy. Those ball valves must be over 3 lbs each? I was not comfortable having it all supported by the glass alone. Using a little ingenuity with some serious dry wall anchors, CPVC 3/4" pipe as spacers and ribbed 1.5" electrical brackets secured the plumbing to the wall to support the weight.

The glass tops I have are from the African setup that was in this tank. I created hard water with Salt/Epsom Salts/Baking Soda so they had calcium deposits that etched the glass. So decided to replace them with black egg create. They carry it at Rona in 4' x 2' pieces 3/8" thick which is perfect. The egg create is not sitting flat because it is not cut out entirely. I am waiting on some Loc-Line to finish the return plus making sure I do not have to move the circulation pumps. After that will cut out pieces so it sits flush.

[attachment deleted by admin]

[dan2x38]

Here it is now totally cleared up but there is some glare from an open blind. the Linkia Star is in the picture looking a little better still crossing my fingers. Firefish shows himself from time to time. The Hawaiian Feather Duster still has it's head but not seeing it out much but my Coco Worm is fine. Finally saw my Tiger Pistol Shrimp tonight too and he is teamed up with the Pink/Blue Gobie again first sighting for him. Crossing fingers everything settles in it's shaping up but not out of the woods yet. Do have an issue with my skimmer but that is a different thread I think? OH The MJ900 near the front is coming out I replaced the pump with an Evo 1024.

[attachment deleted by admin]

[dan2x38]

I lost a couple things on the transfer... In the picture below I need to paint the strainers black - still haven't gotten to it. Will take one out at a time and plug the hole. Paint it with Krylon Fussion let it sit for 7 days then do the other.

The coral tower I built with Macro (base rock) Rock from Ottawa Inverts is starting to colour up with coraline already - it has a pink hue over it now.

All in all it is coming alone nicely with only a few small hick-ups.

OK after 1 month here is what is looks like so far.



[attachment deleted by admin]

[Rybren]

Looking good Dan.

How is the Anthias holding up?

[Bob P]

Awesome

[dan2x38]

Thanks guys...

The Anthias is doing well. I am not 100% sure he is getting enough to eat though he does spit out a lot I feed the tank like brine shrimp, mysis shrimp, marine NLS. I hope he is and am watching him closely.

[Tyler.L]

i have a feeling that anthias will out grow that tank lol, i dont know if you have seen a full sized square spot... but he would be in tight spaces for tank that size

[dan2x38]

I've seen the full grown ones on line only. The research I did says they will do well in 75. They are not suppose to be as active as all other anthias.

[Tyler.L]

some sites say they get up to 7". I have seen them at about 6ish" and liveaquaria which i find to be the most true to min. requirements pegs all anthias to be at a 125g min. due to the amount of swimming they do.

[dan2x38]

Thanks Tyler guess I'll just have to watch him. I like LiveAquaria too but many sites I researched on said 4"-5" and 70g - 75g. So I bought him according to that. Also most sites said they are not as active as other anthais. Most fish never reach their max. size but if he does guess he will end up in the classifieds somewhere.

[dan2x38]

Well it has been awhile thought I'd post couple pics of the tank. I am no photog and marine is way harder for me to capture then f/w ever was!    This is one week after moving it from my old place. The back wall is very pale looks weird the coraline died off when the inside of tank was exposed to the air during the move. That is not dirt or algae at the very top either it is also dead coraline inside the V style C2C over flow - same reason.

1st pic is with the atinics only after centre lights are off

2nd one with all lights on not the best but best shot of all my fish except the Royal Gramma

[Hookup]

coraline algae is taking off eh!  looks good....

[Severum]

coraline algae is taking off eh!  looks good....

Looked like cyano at first but no, its a ton of coraline algae! Sweet looking and the colors really pop under actinics.

[dan2x38]

We picked up a new toy a JVC HD camcorder. Been awhile since I updated this setup. Here is the tank with just atinics you can set to view it in 1080p in the view window at the bottom right:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EBa7-ypr3OU

Will post another with full lighting. It took me a while to figure out the HD uploading a little different than the standard def. Will list the livestock and hardware then.

[dan2x38]

Here is the video with full lights also in HD select 1080p while at YouTube in the bottom right of teh view screen:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WO1erRgK-n8

Doing a better one that will show better colouring. I will replace the one there now.

[White Lightning]

That coraline is awesome! Good work Dan! How do you put music over your video or was it just playing in the background?

[dan2x38]

On YouTube when you upload beside your video is a drop down 'Insight' pick 'Swap Audio'. In Windows you can use Movie maker download it off their website. Other open source apps do it as well.