DarkDep's Ultimate DIY: 8 Foot 300 Gallon Tank

[darkdep]

Hi Folks,

Lots of thinking and planning has gone into a new project for me, since the dismantling of my fish wall.  As some of you know, I was forced to shut down my breeding operations due to humidity issues in my house, which is incapable of handling the load I put upon it   However, I needed something cool to do fish wise, so decided that with my acquired aquatic knowledge to date, it was time for something I've always wanted...THE BIG TANK!!

The big tank won't fit down the stairs to my basement, so it must be built in place.  Even tho it will be large, it only has about 35% the surface area of my breeding operation; plus it will be sumped and will be completely covered, minimizing evaporation.  Should allow me to have this sucker without the humidity problems.

What's big?  8 Feet long!  The tank dimensions will be 96" long x 30" wide x 24" high.  It will be drilled and hooked up to a large sump.  It will have a new DIY stand built, with the goal to make it nice looking similar to the DIY stand I wrote an article on a while ago.  Goals will be some nice DIY T5HO lighting as well as moonlights and some other goodies.  A semi-automatic water change system, inline battery backup power, and more will be part of this giant project.

First, the tank itself.  It will be constructed of 1/2" glass, possible due to the height (only 24" remember, I can't clean anything deeper!) as well as the use of Euro Bracing.  The front panel will be Starphire glass, which is super clear compared to regular plate glass.  I've attached a cutsheet I submitted to the glass shop today for the final quote and to find out time to receive.  I should know within a day or two.  A few other nice touches I'm thinking of doing will be to get polished edges to the exposed glass pieces on the bracing and the corners, for a unique look.

I'm planning to have three overflows, one in each corner and one in the centre.  It's mainly because the tank is so long, but it'll help pull grunge from multiple locations.  Returns will be via a center pipe (not shown yet) so all plumbing is internal; this will let me put the tank right up against the wall.

The tank build itself I'm going to need plenty of help; I'd like to ask for anyone interested in helping with such a build to PM me.  I've already got several people who have said they'd help, but I'm going to need I'm guessing about 5 people minimum to make sure all goes well and there are plenty of hands.  First hopeful date is Sunday, October 28.  That'll likely slip, with the way work's been lately, but that's the current goal.

Let me know your thoughts, if you've got any.  I'm WIDE open to suggestions.

[attachment deleted by admin]

[Adam]

What about a PVC bottom?  And making it 6 inches wider .

[Shrimpy]

Count me in to help!  I'll probably need the help in return at a later date! 

[bitterman]

APW your diagram shows 2" holes.. Most 1.5" bulkheads require 2.5" holes or 65MM. I highly advise going with 1.5" Bulkheads.

What overflow design are you going with? I would advise doing Durso stand pipes

http://www.dursostandpipes.com/

I will help when ever it is planned if possible. My wife is expecting Dec 1st, so the closer it gets to that the more Iffy my help will be.

How is the bracing going to be layed out?

For the stand I would ensure that use use plywood on the top to help support the weight as 1/2" would not be good if you were suspending the tank on the outer edge. Thats alot of weight to hold.  My 180 has 5/8" thick bottom and 1/2" sides.

Bruce

[darkdep]

Hi Bruce, the hole size I was unsure of 100% as I had to run the sheet out to get the quote.  We spoke on this before and I thought your sizes were great, so I'll have the design changed to use 2.5" holes.

I will be doing a Durso standpipe of some kind, yes. 

The bracing is going to go all along the inside edge of the tank, top and bottom.  Bottom bracing won't be seen as it's underneath the gravel, but the top bracing will be seen.  It might go thicker, as I was told those pieces at that length might be very difficult to cut and not have break; it was suggested 6" wide and possibly thicker, which is all fine as it will still give me what I'm looking for.  Euro bracing set up this way should eliminate the need for cross bracing at all.  Although your comments on the glass tops bears further thought...once set up with the sump, I want this tank COMPLETELY covered in a glass top (and no, one big piece is not good enough).

For the stand, the top will be 3/4" plywood with styrofoam.  I am also considering making a "box" and adding some leveling compound once build to be 100% assured of a level surface.

[sdivell]

For the stand, the top will be 3/4" plywood with styrofoam.  I am also considering making a "box" and adding some leveling compound once build to be 100% assured of a level surface.

I would recommend building a curb on your basement floor for this tank. - Use 2x4 wood for the form work, same size as the future stand and fill with self-leveling concrete.  I say this because its very common for basement floors to be sloped towards a floor drain and also floor slabs will settle un-level over time.

[dan2x38]

Even tho it will be large, it only has about 35% the surface area of my breeding operation; plus it will be sumped and will be completely covered, minimizing evaporation.  Should allow me to have this sucker without the humidity problems.

Have you considered incorporating an inexpensive off the shelf dehumidifier with a hose running into the hood to draw out moisture to insure less humidity?

Returns will be via a center pipe (not shown yet) so all plumbing is internal; this will let me put the tank right up against the wall.

I would leave a gap at the back so there is no sweat with temp. changes between wall & tank. Also if there is a small spill you could put a small sponge mop or something to wipe it up off the wall... it would also give a small space to run some small hose for a dehumidifier or and after thought piece of equipment...

Got a bad back not so useful for lifting... I can hold & steady... even make runs for extra silcone, etc... OR just stand around looking handsome... ROTFL   

[darkdep]

A curb on the basement floor...never thought of that.  That's an interesting idea.  Two issues there are that I've never worked with concrete before (that's overcome-able I think; you make a form out of wood, mix and pour the self-leveling stuff, and let it sit for...a month?) and that my wife might start having second thoughts.  I was originally going to do my best with the wood to level everything, then use some self leveling compound on the top of the stand to deal with any imperfection...do you think this will be enough?

Since I'm looking to get back into the home automation thing, is to incorporate an electronic humidity sensor in the hood to do something based on the level; I DO have a cheapo humidifier (probably part of my problem, I need a bigger / more efficient one anyhow).  Hooking a hose up, I would think that might ENCOURAGE evaporation...hmm.  Interesting idea tho.

By "against the wall" I mean maybe 1-2 inches from, not in contact. I'm not too concerned about anything here; the wall is freshly installed covering the concrete foundation wall.

[dan2x38]

PS- big suggestion... how about changing your Sig?

[sdivell]

A curb on the basement floor...never thought of that.  That's an interesting idea.  Two issues there are that I've never worked with concrete before (that's overcome-able I think; you make a form out of wood, mix and pour the self-leveling stuff, and let it sit for...a month?) and that my wife might start having second thoughts.  I was originally going to do my best with the wood to level everything, then use some self leveling compound on the top of the stand to deal with any imperfection...do you think this will be enough?

Yes concrete is very easy to work with actually... think of it as clay that goes hard...forever.  All you need is a wheel barrow, a hose, and a bag of premixed self-leveling concrete (probably readily available at home depot or Rona).. let sit for 24 hours before you remove the form work and then I would wait 7 days before you add load to the curb.  when the concrete is 28 days old it will be 98% of its total strength.

Your plan will give you a level stand at the start but I'm just thinking about all that weight sitting on a wood base will over time compress.  To go with your idea I would build your wood base with wood joists @ 12" centres just to spread the load out as much as possible on the concrete slab to prevent any cracking or sinking.

[darkdep]

I'm confident in the strength of the floor and in the stands I build; The rack of 6 x 40gallon tanks were on a stand with far less "floor area" than this new guy. 

I like the idea of the concrete slab but I really have "just enough" of my wife's support to get this in there.      I think I would get a lot of flak for doing the slab.  I'll just have to be really good about the stand...It only needs to support...oh...3500-4000 lbs or so

[dan2x38]

Later on if you sell the house the slab might not be a selling feature with out a tank on it... If you do go that way make sure it is contrete not cement!

[sdivell]

Well you always gotta do wht the foreman (or forewoman....errrr foreperson) says!  

seriously though I'm sure your stand idea will work fine.  I was just suggesting another option.  Probably the 'luxery' option.

Good luck on the build..Look forward to seeing the updates.

[darkdep]

Dan:  I've already said "the tank is included with the house" when we sell.  If they don't want it, I'll cut the glass and take it with me, but if there's a concrete slab...well, that'll be harder to deal with

[Quatro]

Is it possible to first lay down a tarp and pour the concrete on it?  Would the slab then be removable?

[sdivell]

Then you would have a tarp under a couple hundred pounds of concrete.    Concrete isn't hard to remove with a strong back and a sledge hammer.

I believe he has decided to not go this route anyway so lets drop it.

[Aquaviewer]

I think if you did do a slab on grade it wouldn't need to be huge.  Just frame off the footprint of your stand and add enough leveling compound to fill and find its level.  This could be less than an 1".  If you add trim or baseboard to the bottom of the stand it can be scribed to hide the slab - no one is the wiser.  If you do remove the tank/stand at a future date I doubt it would noticeable and I would think not likely to detract from the sale of the house.

Having said that, a wood base can be built and scribed to match the floor to a near perfect fit, requiring little supplemental shimming - just takes patience.

If the stand is built with the wood grain oriented properly and suitable load orientation there should be negligible compression.

[woodendude]

I always thought that Euro bracing was the glass lip around the inner upper edge of a tank such as this.
http://pets.webshots.com/photo/2086329290040076581mohmUQ

[busdriver]

I'm confident in the strength of the floor and in the stands I build; The rack of 6 x 40gallon tanks were on a stand with far less "floor area" than this new guy. 

I like the idea of the concrete slab but I really have "just enough" of my wife's support to get this in there.      I think I would get a lot of flak for doing the slab.  I'll just have to be really good about the stand...It only needs to support...oh...3500-4000 lbs or so

Take it from a guy who has had a tank crack on him, I would go with a slab, as wood will compress under that much weight.
What kind of mess would 300 gallons of water make in your basement?
The 150 sure made a mess.

[darkdep]

That is eurobracing woodendude, they're doing it with acrylic in that pic but I'm going to do it with glass.

Terry: As much as I respect what happened to your tank I'm not really afraid of the stand compressing.  I've built many stands including the stands which currently hold 2 75's one on top of the other, and the stand holding 6 40gallon tanks (That's 240 gallons).  Nary an issue with compression or anything else have I had.  I overbuild to a fault, and don't expect to have an issue here with the stand.

[kennyman]

Are you gonna glue any rocks to the back of this one?        

[darkdep]

Oh HELL no!  Never again.  It looks really cool but I'll never be the same after carrying that tank out of the house with all the extra weight of the rocks.

[bitterman]

Oh HELL no!  Never again.  It looks really cool but I'll never be the same after carrying that tank out of the house with all the extra weight of the rocks.

How heavey can it really be? I lifted 1 end of my 180 pretty easily.

[speckledmind]

Hey Dark,

I have one recommendation to make on your glass.
Ask that each piece of glass be laser cut ( and special order from the manufacturer ), this will ensure that there will be no imperfections on the cuts.

Most glass shops usually order as need be such thickness of glass, and in the quantity your requesting, so there should not be a problem.

[darkdep]

Anyone ever looked here:  http://saltaquarium.about.com/gi/dynamic/offsite.htm?zi=1/XJ&sdn=saltaquarium&cdn=homegarden&tm=26&f=11&su=p284.8.150.ip_&tt=29&bt=1&bts=0&zu=http%3A//www.fnzas.org.nz/uploads/media/GlassThicknessCE_02.xls

These calculations seem very precise and scientific as opposed to "opinion".  They seem to suggest that 1/2 in glass for my tank would not need any bracing.  Which seems counter to everything I know, but still

I'm starting to rethink the eurobracing.  Thinking it might annoy me at cleaning time...

[bitterman]

Anyone ever looked here:  http://saltaquarium.about.com/gi/dynamic/offsite.htm?zi=1/XJ&sdn=saltaquarium&cdn=homegarden&tm=26&f=11&su=p284.8.150.ip_&tt=29&bt=1&bts=0&zu=http%3A//www.fnzas.org.nz/uploads/media/GlassThicknessCE_02.xls

These calculations seem very precise and scientific as opposed to "opinion".  They seem to suggest that 1/2 in glass for my tank would not need any bracing.  Which seems counter to everything I know, but still

I'm starting to rethink the eurobracing.  Thinking it might annoy me at cleaning time...

Put bracing on it....... PLEASE!! My Miracles 180 had 2 cross braces. They used to make the tanks out of thicker glass to not use bracing. They are a manufacturer and they must put the bracing on for a reason. After the tank blow out I had, I'd go on the side of safety. My 180 is 72"x24"x24" and has a very strong black trim with 2 braces. So for a 8' tank I would use 3 braces. Additionally your tank is 30" wide so that is a slightly more outward pressure on the tank.. I'd go on the side of safety.. I learned my lesson already. Myself I think the Euro bracing is more of a PITA then a few cross braces.

My observations when looking at larger tanks for glass thickness:
72x24"x24" tanks used 1/2" glass on the sides with braces
Some 72"x24"x24" tanks  used 3/4" glass with no, or only 1 brace
72"x18"x22" used 3/8" glass and cross braces

My 195 60"x24"x31" tall is 3/4" and has not bracing, but I am going to install one center brace.
My buddies old 90 was 1/2" glass and had no bracing, but it bowed over 1/4" in the center if not 3/8"

I've been looking closely at tanks since that crappy Flinton one exploded.

Bruce

Bruce

[darkdep]

Oh don't get me wrong, I will still use bracing, but I'm rethinking the EURO bracing...probably do as you suggest, go with three crosses.

[bitterman]

Oh don't get me wrong, I will still use bracing, but I'm rethinking the EURO bracing...probably do as you suggest, go with three crosses.

Kewl!! Fehhw!!!!!

This is a cool overflow setup.
http://www.cyphos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16663

[darkdep]

Quote is in!

I asked them to forget the euro bracing components for now as I'm rethinking it, and to just quote the box.  Price comes out to $1,481.80 (before tax).  This includes the Starphire front pane, as well as the holes drilled in the bottom as per my specs.  ~10 day lead time, and they will deliver to my house for FREE.

...She also asked if I'd invite them over to see the finished product

[darkdep]

Ok, google scares me.  Google for "8 foot aquarium" and this thread is the third link.

[busdriver]

Chris, are you recording everything, building a 300 galllon tank would make a great topic at one of the future OVAS meetings.

[darkdep]

There will be a significant amount of recording, yes.  I'll hope to put up an article as well as maybe do a talk.

Plus it will be a building experience for a lot of people.  So many have offered to help (and big thanks to all of you).

Ok, so next steps:  Have to do the stand.  It will be logically framed, likely built with double 2x4's throughout, with vertical supports every 24".  I'll likely have a door in the side as well for sump insertion.  Thinking I'm going to make the stand higher than average.

[dan2x38]

Quote is in!

I asked them to forget the euro bracing components for now as I'm rethinking it, and to just quote the box.  Price comes out to $1,481.80 (before tax).  This includes the Starphire front pane, as well as the holes drilled in the bottom as per my specs.  ~10 day lead time, and they will deliver to my house for FREE.

...She also asked if I'd invite them over to see the finished product

They delivering it to your basement?

[sniggir]

wow Chris that is a great price..and dilivery..I think when I go to do my basement project I will have toget  teh name of the company off you

[freshwater]

Anyone ever looked here:  http://saltaquarium.about.com/gi/dynamic/offsite.htm?zi=1/XJ&sdn=saltaquarium&cdn=homegarden&tm=26&f=11&su=p284.8.150.ip_&tt=29&bt=1&bts=0&zu=http%3A//www.fnzas.org.nz/uploads/media/GlassThicknessCE_02.xls

These calculations seem very precise and scientific as opposed to "opinion".  They seem to suggest that 1/2 in glass for my tank would not need any bracing.  Which seems counter to everything I know, but still

I'm starting to rethink the eurobracing.  Thinking it might annoy me at cleaning time...

The "Beta" values for Length to Height ratio of 4 (96"/24")  is not shown on the table, if you interpolate Beta = 4.2ish instead of 3.7 they told you to use. The new Beta value increases the thickness a bit to about 14mm

The concepts discussed seem to be right, but the equation is very iffy, not sure where they got it from.
Plus, no author or reference, wouldn't be able to put this in any technical report.

Sketchy

[dan2x38]

Oh don't get me wrong, I will still use bracing, but I'm rethinking the EURO bracing...probably do as you suggest, go with three crosses.

For bracing how about on the bottom build a skirt then add some dense foam to take up the gap. On the top make an acrylic skirt... this would allow for easier cleaning then the ero-bracing and give a little more insurance of support... could get Canus to glue the top skirt togeather...

[darkdep]

What do you mean by a skirt?  Not visualizing...

Not sure if they'll deliver direct to the basement, but definitely to the driveway.  The plan will be to have everyone here when they arrive so we can all haul it off and down. 

We can bring the bottom down and put it right on the stand; the other pieces we can just lean against the wall until we're ready for them.

I'm almost wishing I could get a normal black plastic bracing piece like on most standard tanks now

[audioslave_36]

I'm almost wishing I could get a normal black plastic bracing piece like on most standard tanks now

Call Mike or Roch at Plastech on Iber road they can make that for you (613)831-4640

[dan2x38]

I'm almost wishing I could get a normal black plastic bracing piece like on most standard tanks now

That is just what I meant by a skirt. Get some black acrylic at Canus then have them weld or glue it togeather for you. A bottom skirt or lip could just be built around your stand top to fit the tank base... then had some dense foam to take up any gap... or another acrylic skirt like the top for the bottom...

[bitterman]

That is just what I meant by a skirt. Get some black acrylic at Canus then have them weld or glue it togeather for you. A bottom skirt or lip could just be built around your stand top to fit the tank base... then had some dense foam to take up any gap... or another acrylic skirt like the top for the bottom...

For a Tank this large and only 1/2" thinck glass on the bottom pain it will be a disaster using a traditional frame on the top. I advise sitting the bootm of the tank on a flat surface on syrofoam. Thats alot fo weight fo rth ebotm of a tank especially when you consider the rocks I know APW will add to the tank. Secondly I see no need for a bootom skirt as you call it seing the stand would most likely hid it anyways.

Chris there are places you can purchase extruded plastic to make proper tops for big tanks. My 195 is a custom tank and it has a black plastic trim (Glass is 3/4" thick, so no slealing mine eh...  ).

Bruce

[darkdep]

For the stand, it will be 3/4" plywood, then hopefully a thin layer of self-leveling compound (need to see what's available), then a sheet of styrofoam (probably 1/2"), then the pane of glass. 

What I'll do is have the bottom pre-drilled; when it arrives we'll put it down on the plywood, trace out the holes with a sharpie, then remove and drill slightly oversized holes with an appropriate holesaw.  Then we'll put on the styrofoam and carve it from underneath.  Bulkheads will be installed on the bottom, and then we can place it on the stand ready to go.

For bracing: will likely go with 4 8" wide pieces...2 on each side (siliconed to the front, back, and side) and the other two evenly spaced along the remaining open area.  I'll likely get reasonably sized 1/8" glass panels to serve as covers for the open area.  Maybe with small holes drilled so I can use plastic handles for them.  I'd like them to sit inside some sort of lip...not sure what to do here.

The Canopy is going to be a bit of a challenge...need to design it so that I can get inside everywhere to clean, but won't need to ever remove it (cause, damn, it'll be 8 feet long).  Thinking a tight lip here can only serve to help with tank stability.

[darkdep]

Question on the overflows now...Pretty sure I'm going to go with a fairly standard Durso Standpipe model.  Because the tank is glass and I'm not comfortable with the bond between acrylic and glass, thinking I'll just build the overflows out of 1/4" dark tinted glass and perhaps use some eggcrate at the top to prevent any critters getting in.  Will this work?

Also, for the standpipe, is it advisable to build the connector there out of threads instead of slip, so it can be removed?  Not sure if this is necessary or not...

[bitterman]

What I'll do is have the bottom pre-drilled; when it arrives we'll put it down on the plywood, trace out the holes with a sharpie, then remove and drill slightly oversized holes with an appropriate holesaw.  Then we'll put on the styrofoam and carve it from underneath.  Bulkheads will be installed on the bottom, and then we can place it on the stand ready to go.

Get your bulkheads before you cut the plywood, you'll be surprised how big a hole you will require to get clearance. The outside of the nut on my cheap pool store bulkheads are 3.5"-4+" and that does not include working room

Maybe with small holes drilled so I can use plastic handles for them.  I'd like them to sit inside some sort of lip...not sure what to do here.

You don't need to drill holes you can easily silicon glass handles in place using some silicon and 3 smaller pieces of glass per handle. I'm doing this for the glass tops I'm making for my 180.

Question on the overflows now...Pretty sure I'm going to go with a fairly standard Durso Standpipe model.  Because the tank is glass and I'm not comfortable with the bond between acrylic and glass, thinking I'll just build the overflows out of 1/4" dark tinted glass and perhaps use some eggcrate at the top to prevent any critters getting in.  Will this work?

I would actually go with acrylic for a few reasons. First to get a goo bond you can sand the area silicon will be touching, this gives a good bond. Most factory tanks use an acrylic/plastic for there
overflows.  Unless you get glass bent ($$$$) I'd go acrylic. The sharp corner in the over flow box of my 195 has resulted many injuries to several fish. I think the 1/4" glass would be too thin. My 195 has 1/2" thick glass. I like the nice curves that you can get from the acryillic overflows.

Also, for the standpipe, is it advisable to build the connector there out of threads instead of slip, so it can be removed?  Not sure if this is necessary or not...

I used threaded connections for my tank but it will cost some extra $$$ PVC plus is VERY expensive.. It cost about $175 to build the standpipe with bulkhead for my 195.

In fact I would go cheap and use ABS alot of SW guys/gals are using it so it should not cause an issue. I would not glue all the connections for the durso (Only glue certain ones.), I'd use Teflon tape to give a water tight seal, but still allow removal at a later time. I can show you about this if you want Chris.

Hope this helps,
    Bruce

[normc]

Have you seen this page.
http://www.dursostandpipes.com/BuildYourOwn/tabid/54/Default.aspx

[darkdep]

Good idea getting the bulkheads ahead of time...I'll order those this week.

You'll have to draw me a picture of what you mean for the glass handles...?

Hmm...maybe I can go to Canus and ask them to build/curve me three overflows to my specs, then I can just cut the grooves myself with my router...

Bruce, I'm trying hard but I can't figure out why it would cost $175 for a standpipe setup.  PVC pipe is plenty cheap at HD, elbows and such are a buck or two each, how'd it end up costing so much?

[BigDaddy]

Durso pipes are noisy.  Have you considered using what many saltwater folks use?

One of these:

[dan2x38]

Durso pipes are noisy.  Have you considered using what many saltwater folks use?

One of these:

I use those on my 10g plant filter. It makes alot of noise when it drains... I wanted to have a faster input to creat more current but can't... this is a very small scale I would imagine at that level and distance of water falling it would be even noiser...

What about a a over flow box?

[darkdep]

Dursos are noisy?  I thought they were a lot quieter than other designs?

I've seen the thing you're describing but can't see how it's any quieter than an open pipe...

[BigDaddy]

Sorry.. I was thinking of just a straight overflow.

Using the fitting above, you don't have to section off part of your footprint as the overflow to the standpipe.

Looks like this when installed... very low profile and with a T fitting on the other side of the bulkead, just as quiet

[bitterman]

You'll have to draw me a picture of what you mean for the glass handles...?

I've attached a quick sketch of what I mean. Basically i long piece of glass held up by 2 smaller pieces of glass.. You could even silicon marbles in place to act as handles.

Bruce, I'm trying hard but I can't figure out why it would cost $175 for a standpipe setup.  PVC pipe is plenty cheap at HD, elbows and such are a buck or two each, how'd it end up costing so much?

The problem was Home Depot did not have what I needed. PVC plus charged over $75 for the bulkhead (There was a weird sized hole cut in the tank and this was the only bulkhead I could find that would work) and then from that their are several thread piece that were from $10 to $20 each, then the T, Cap and 90 down in 2" PVC all cost some $ I personally think PVC plus has a WB (Why Bother) price for people that walk in. All in all it cost about 175 including taxes.

Bruce

[attachment deleted by admin]

[dan2x38]

I ordered my plumbing pieces parts Marine Depot. I also got my check valve from there. They are small parts so they'd sent them in post. It cost very little. Of course a lot of stuff from Home Depot.

I used the strainers just as in the pic. and it is noisey. I even drilled a hole on the top of the elbow to allow air to escape still noisey. Would love to figure it out to increase the flow rate... maybe mine is just to small? hey stop laughing  I am talking about my plant filter... 

[darkdep]

I like the look of those strainers enough to consider drilling the back instead of the bottom...it'll mean a few inches clearance at the back but it would seem simpler.  Would you still want an overflow box around these?

I found those in a 1" size, no bigger...Bruce, I know you're strongly in favour of a larger pipe, but with three separate outflows, wouldn't 1" be enough?

BD:  So, you're saying instead of the elbow, you use a T fitting, with one end up, and that is supposed to deal with the noise?  Have you actually seen this in operation with the mod you're suggesting?

[bitterman]

I like the look of those strainers enough to consider drilling the back instead of the bottom...it'll mean a few inches clearance at the back but it would seem simpler.  Would you still want an overflow box around these?

I found those in a 1" size, no bigger...Bruce, I know you're strongly in favour of a larger pipe, but with three separate outflows, wouldn't 1" be enough?

Chris I think you are looking for trouble only using a 1" builkhead. Most people only use them on very small tanks or most often as return lines.  If you want 1.5" stainers you can get them hear. Be warned though this setup can be very noicy!!! The Durso is so much queiter in comparison.

http://www.jlaquatics.com/phpstore/store_pages/details/plumbing.php?product_ID=pl-bhst15

Chris you might want to come a look at the overflow setup that is on my 180 that I got form Nelson. It uses the Overflow setup that marinscape has designed. It is drilled throught he back, but used smalle overflow boxes at the back. With 1.5" they say each box should be run at about 500-600 GPH to be quiet but will handle in a pinch upto 1000 GPH (IF something gets plugged).

Since you are going to be running a mag18 on the tank I think that you need the larger bulkheads otherwise you might risk an overfilling/overflow issue. Marinescape said they run a mag 12 for 2 Overflows so a mag 18 for 3 would be perfect. The thing I like about the setup is it does not really wast any space in the tank comparied to a traditional overflow box.

BD:  So, you're saying instead of the elbow, you use a T fitting, with one end up, and that is supposed to deal with the noise?  Have you actually seen this in operation with the mod you're suggesting?

My 65 has a similar setup to this, and I am changing it to a Durso very soon.

Bruce

[darkdep]

Bruce I would love to see what you have set up.  Realistically I can't see myself getting out your way anytime soon tho, but I'll try to carve a hole. 

Still think I want to go through the bottom tho.  In order to do anything neat with plumbing out the back I'm going to need more clearance than I'm willing to provide.

[dan2x38]

How about 2 corner overflows? Check this link. Takes up no external room & easily hid, wastes littl internal tank space really... Here is something could be copied too: http://www.bizrate.com/fishsupplies/oid623495636.html

[BigDaddy]

I like the look of those strainers enough to consider drilling the back instead of the bottom...it'll mean a few inches clearance at the back but it would seem simpler.  Would you still want an overflow box around these?

No, they would drain straight into the sump

I found those in a 1" size, no bigger...Bruce, I know you're strongly in favour of a larger pipe, but with three separate outflows, wouldn't 1" be enough?

Most people will use 2.5 inch drilled holes to accomodate a 1.5 inch bulkead

BD:  So, you're saying instead of the elbow, you use a T fitting, with one end up, and that is supposed to deal with the noise?  Have you actually seen this in operation with the mod you're suggesting?

Not in person but in photos yes.  The problem with a straight elbow is that both water and air get pulled into the tubing.  With some kind of vent above the elbow (a t fitting, some have even used empty pen casings or rigid airline tubing), it allows for the most flow of water with the least amount of noise.

[bitterman]

Bruce I would love to see what you have set up.  Realistically I can't see myself getting out your way anytime soon tho, but I'll try to carve a hole. 

Still think I want to go through the bottom tho.  In order to do anything neat with plumbing out the back I'm going to need more clearance than I'm willing to provide.

You could if you did some fiddling not use overflow boxes..... Would be a PITA to setup correctly, but would most likely work OK. The problem would be synchronizing all 3 dursos and use strainers on them to stop fish getting in. Also have to drill additional anti-syphon holes just below the water line to help ensure when the power goes off the sump level does not get up too high.

One thing I did notice on my miracles tank, When they built it they used small spacers in 3 places on the glass such that they get the perfect thickness of silicon when they clamped the tank together. Excess silicon was trimmed after is dried.

2 corner overflows on a 8' long tank are not a good idea then water/dirt has to move 4' to get down an overflow. Additionally using 3 overflows give a safety margin if 1 overflow gets blocked, the tank should not overflow, with only 2, the mag18 would over power the a single overflow possibly.

Bruce

Here is a site that gives the GPH and size.  http://www.reefcentral.com/calc/drain.php It shows a 1" standpipe maxed out at 600 GPH were a 1.5" will give you upto about 1000-1200 GPH MAX. Also note the overflow size recomendations for overflow length.

[darkdep]

Ok, time to move on...3 x Durso Standpipes, drilled from the bottom.  I'll have the overflows priced at Canus out of acrylic and will silicone in place.  For the return I'll have an extra hole drilled near the centre for the return pipe.  I'll Tee it off and will return over the walls of the overflow.

[busdriver]

Dumb question here, have you started building this tank or are you still in the planning stages?

[darkdep]

The Glass is sitting on order, the stand will start construction within the next 10 days.

[dan2x38]

Hey Chris here is a 1700 gallon... Go big or stay home... LOL  amazing what fish hobbist do & build...

[darkdep]

I'll stick to my 300 gallon for now...OMG

[bitterman]

APW here are some nice overflow boxes.

http://austinoceans.com/products-overflows.html?gclid=CNTy0f-vhI8CFQUsPAodQ3GP3Q#overflows

[darkdep]

Small update...

Got my bulkheads and pump today.  Wife has told me the room must have the last wall drywalled before I can build the tank, so will be spending the next week or two drywalling and painting.

[BigDaddy]

I thought you were supposed to be doing that this weekend?

[Adam]

Hopefully it's not too late to chime in about overflow options...

What about the Herbie method?  I don't have a link for you, but you can find it pretty easily on reef central.  Apparently it's the quietest system to date...

[darkdep]

I was supposed to do it this weekend...but a funeral back home and a work crisis got in the way.  And I've been ordered to drywall and paint the last wall in the basement BEFORE building the stand.  Sigh.  I've made it VERY clear I expect this to be built before the snow flies.

...course, there were flakes in my neighbourhood on Sunday. 

Not too late about overflows at all...I'm a complete n00b when it comes to them.  I'll look up the Herbie method.  Redbelly is giving me some help as well, I'm going to go see what he has going on to see if I like it.

[RoxyDog]

get some help drywalling and painting?    I'm sure there are very capable people on here.  then you get to the TANK quicker!

[audioslave_36]

Hey Chris, I can come over any evening this week and give you a hand to drywall and tape the wall if you need.

[darkdep]

I just might take you up on that   My wife and kids fly back into town tonight, lemme see how that goes first.

[audioslave_36]

OK, let me know.

[dan2x38]

I just might take you up on that   My wife and kids fly back into town tonight, lemme see how that goes first.

Should have built the tank while she was out of town... 

[darkdep]

She must have sensed that was my plan.  She's right tho; it's really not going to take much to "finish the room" and it really should be done before I build an 8 foot long, 1.5 metric tonne object in there.

I'm going to fast-track the stand, which means I'll build the frame and we'll start putting the glass in place; I can finish the sides of the stand later.  The tank may not be up and running for a while but my goal is still to have the tank physically constructed before the snow flies.

[sdivell]

Wouldn't it be safer to be hammering nails into a stand and contructing it in the absence of expensive, brittle, breakable glass? 

[darkdep]

Trust me   It'll be down to screws and glue.  Nails suck. 

[dan2x38]

Nails a huge risk!!!! No way... 

How long do you think it will take to fill? the tank that is not the drywall... 

[audioslave_36]

Chris I am also available this weekend if need be.

It doesn't take long to fill, I can fill all three of my tanks in about an hour (460g)

you can give me a call (613) 769-6520 if you need/want my help with dry wall and taping.

I have all the tools required to do the job as well.

Dave

[darkdep]

Thanks so much Dave.  It will depend on whether I can secure a block of time from the family; if I can I'll give you a call. Otherwise it might happen every time I randomly get 1/2 hour free   They're all back after being away for about 10 days, so some "family time" may be in order...not sure.

Help from someone who knows what they're doing would be much better tho.

[dan2x38]

Wish I could help...  I use to hang drywall but now I got some major back issues can't do what I use too...  I was never a crack filler though... takes me from here to eternity to tape & fill... 

[darkdep]

Drywall for me is easy.  I hang the sheets and walk away.  Wife does the mudding...she's convinced I suck at it, and she's a perfectionist.  Thus, we end up with perfect walls and I have no stress   We got some of the new "Dust control" mud which claims to not fill your room with white dust.  We will see.

A little bad news tho...based on existing dimensions and desires from the others that live in the house with me (those "others" always crimp up my evil plans!), I'm losing a foot of space...bringing my max length down to 7 feet.  Thought I'd adjust the dimensions to keep as much volume as possible.  Oddly enough, to do that I'll need to go higher...meaning thicker (and more expensive) glass...ending me with a likely final dimension of 84 x 24 x 30.  Which...happens to be the exact size of the largest tank BA sells (265 gallon). 

...Which, makes me ask the question if I'm not better off buying the completed, with-warranty tank, and finding some movers who will bring it down the stairs.

[murgus]

When I'm spending that kind of dough, I'm a big fan of the warranty!

Andrew

[sdivell]

Go with the BA's tank.  Warranty plus you don't have to go through the hassle of building the custom tank.  since the tank wont be a custom size anyway. 
The BA's tank will be guaranteed to hold the water.  No crossing your fingers and toes while you fill it with water! 

[dan2x38]

Go that route with the warranty... delivered is way to go but make sure they are insured & guaranteed delivery. Don't scrimp on delivery!

[RossW]

...Which, makes me ask the question if I'm not better off buying the completed, with-warranty tank, and finding some movers who will bring it down the stairs.

What is the cost differential?  If it is a few hundred dollars, I would go with the store bought and warranty.  If I could save a grand...

Did you try somewhere like North American Fishbreeders in Scarborough 416-267-7252 for a price comparison?  gmann has used them before and speaks very highly of them.

[Mettle]

If I'm not mistaken - you can get that tank from BA's with built in overflows and all of that ready to go for you. So all of that is included in the price/warranty as well if I'm not mistaken. (Or at least I'd think it would be.) So this way if you are going the route of a sump/fuge of some type (and why not?) you don't have to hold your breath while someone drills the tank or void the warranty getting that done (as I'm sure the tampering with the glass would instantly void the warranty).

I'd go the way of buying it, personally... And I doubt it would be hard to find people willing to give you a hand. I think enough of us are excited for you that we'd be willing to pitch in time/effort to give ya a hand.

Do you even have any of your old fishroom/wall left? Lol.

[gmann]

Chris if you can get a 7ft tank down them stairs I suggest you go with buying one.Thats going to be one heavy tank:o  I would hire movers! 

[audioslave_36]

my 220g tank is only a foot shorter in length and four of us carried it down to my basement with no issues at all.

as far as warranty goes, if you are not putting the tank on a stand purchased from the seller/maker of the tank, I am pretty sure there is no warranty.(might want to check into that)

[darkdep]

You guys rock.  All of you. 

My stairs down, for any of you who haven't seen, are a little tight..there is a 90 degree turn in the middle, and the floor to ceiling is only about 7ft 6 inches.  I have gotten a lot of large items down with some careful work, and I believe the tank dimensions would be doable...but the tank would, at one point, need to almost be vertical.  Kind of hard to get 4 guys under one side of the tank...

What I was thinking was perhaps contacting a moving company that specializes in pianos and other heavy delicate items.  I would imagine I'm not the first person to want to do this.  If anyone can pull it off, someone like that probably can...

If the warranty requirements need me to use a manufactured stand, maybe for this I'll buy the plain metal stand and wrap it to make it pretty, as opposed to building the frame out of 2x4.

NAB seems to have good prices...but of course then it has to be moved from TO...

[audioslave_36]

LOL,  my ceiling in my 90 degree turn in the center of my steps has a height of 7'2"  and we stood the tank on end on the landing (on a moving pad) then slid it around the corner and down she went.   no problems.   But do what makes you feel best.

[RoxyDog]

I know Hagen tanks have their warranty voided when you don't use their stand, so definitely check that out!

[darkdep]

Dave:  do you know offhand what your 220 weighed dry?

[audioslave_36]

I know Hagen tanks have their warranty voided when you don't use their stand, so definitely check that out!

My All Glass 220g is that way too. I am sure both my perfecto 120g tanks fall in the same category

I would say it is somewhere between 350 lbs to 400lbs

[ryancarman.com]

not that any one actually asked me directly but... i'd say go with a pre fab tank.

if nothing else but to avoid the pain of working with that much silicone.

[darkdep]

I guess I'll just need some strong help.  Sounds like your move is similar to mine. 

[audioslave_36]

I was worried too.  but it went very smooth.   And as I stated before I am available any time to help out, with drywall, mudding, and tank moving.

[darkdep]

You're on my list Dave, thanks so much.  I think you've convinced me it's a better option to get the pre-built tank.  I'll need to enlist a lot of help (I have an unstable back and it's probably not a good idea for me to get under this thing at all) but so many have already offered it should be doable.  You all have my sincere thanks.

[kennyman]

I thought Aquarium Services was also a delivery and install business. Have you asked them about it 

[darkdep]

No...but I will.  garnpet told me his story of them delivering a tank, but I got the impression that they only wanted to deal with "simple" installs (i.e: No Stairs).

[busdriver]

Can I make a suggestion about moving your tank to the basement?
Here goes, get one or rent one of those dollies that moving companies use to move fridges, a fish tank standing on end is about the same dimensions, I think, and it would be easier to move as it would be on wheels, I would think!

[darkdep]

I like that idea, but that means only one or maybe two people can move the thing...that's 400lbs potentially rolling down the stairs.

[Vizerdrix]

I like that idea, but that means only one or maybe two people can move the thing...that's 400lbs potentially rolling down the stairs.

My hubby and I move pinball machines up and down the stairs with a dolly all the time, and some of our machines weigh that much!!!  As long as you take it slow, it shouldn't be a problem.

[busdriver]

Chris, it's a lot easier when 1 person is driving and 3 people are guiding the thing down the stairs.
There are more people keeping the tank from falling down the stairs.

[dan2x38]

When I was younger... much younger in early 20s I worked in Edmonton for an office furniture company. We had to sometimes move & install fire files. They are like basic filing cabinets except hey have close to 1.5" of fire proof concreate in a metal Their drop tested from 8 stories withstand temps over 1500f. They are close to 550 lbs for a 4 drawer. There is a dolly just like a fridge ones that have little catches on the back where the normal ones are they prevent it going down a step until you let go of a hand held lever, they go one step at a time. Two of us sometimes had to move them because that is all that could fit in the stairwell. We even had to use just brute force to maneuver. Maybe that is why my back is like pudding now... LOL  Should be able to rent one of those puppies?

[darkdep]

Ok guys, you've convinced me   I'll head over to BA's sometime over the next day or two and ask about the availability of that tank

[darkdep]

Here's an interesting option.  I found an Aquarticles article from a guy who has gone through a group order bringing in large acrylic tanks into Canada from a large manufacturer in the states.  Given the current strength of our dollar and the MUCH lower prices there...this might be feasible.

Check out www.tenecor.com.  I can get a 240gal Acrylic tank for about 1100 US.  That's cheap. 

[gmann]

  I so want the 20' in wall tank.  What are the dimensions you are going with? I would def. go with a 30" High tank!
thanks for posting Chris.

[darkdep]

At this point I'm aiming for 84" x 24" x 30".  If this company comes back with anything even remotely competitive, I may attempt a group order.  Not that there will be a lot of people in the market for a $1000 tank, but when that $1000 buys you a tank that would cost $3000-$4000 here, it may get some interest.

[busdriver]

I've had Tenecor as one of my favourite sites for a long time.
They build every kind of tank you can imagine, round, oval, you name it, they'll build it.
I've even seen them install one through the roof of a house using a crane.
These were all salt water tanks though.

Chris, I was wondering if they would install it at your place?

[RossW]

Would the group order save some $$$ shipping and/or get a discount?

[Brine]

When I worked at Canus Plastics during the summers in University we built a large bow front acrylic tank for someone. This would be maybe 5 or so years ago. I was not into aquariums at the time but it was an interesting project. As I recall it was about 6ft long. 2ft tall and about 2ft wide at the wide part of the bow. It was made with 1" thick acrylic. I don't know how much we charged but acrylic that thick is NOT inexpensive. Perhaps someone here knows about the tank. I think it was installed in Rockcliff Park somewhere and as I recall it was to be a saltwater tank. All that to say it might be worth talking to Canus to see what kind of price you might get there. If you decide to go that route let me know as I still have contacts there and may be able to get some kind of discount....maybe.

[dan2x38]

Of course nice thing about acrylic easy to drill & work with. That thick no real scratch issue you can use a buff kit for them if their not too deep.

[darkdep]

I never thought of asking Canus but that wouldn't hurt. I would imagine it would only need to be 1/2inch tho, as that's the glass thickness I was going with.

[dan2x38]

Which is heavier glass or acrylic?

[darkdep]

Glass is about twice the weight of acrylic.  Several sites on the net have opinions from people who would never go glass above a certain size just because of the weight.  However, Acrylic is much stronger.  The only real downsides to Acrylic are that it's easier to scratch and it costs more.  But it's apparently fairly easy to buff scratches out.

[sniggir]

you may find that 1/2 in acrilic will bow unless you brase the crap out of it.

[audioslave_36]

Call the Plastec number I posted in this thread before and get a quote from them, I am sure they will be cheaper than Canus, and they do amazing work.

[Funkmotor]

Not to fuel the fire, but this article says that for 30" high you need to use at least 3/4" acrylic.  It might be more impact-resistant than glass, but it's not as resistant to bowing (and then pulling apart at the joins.)

http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/diy_acrylic_aquarium.php

[audioslave_36]

Any news ?  Whats going on ?  You have left us all in the dark   

[darkdep]

Sorry

Drywalling is almost done.  Crazy couple of work weeks and some travel has slowed things down but just some sanding and painting left.  The floor will wait until after the tank is in place.

Current line of thinking is back to building.  Considering the 265gal tank from BA, but I'm skeptical of their ability to deliver it, and get it down my stairs.  I built a "test" contraption out of 2x4 and it goes down fine if you don't take weight into account, the people to carry the weight, and possible dolly.  Although it would come assembled, I would be "settling" in certain ways...I'd get the 30" height (which, while visually nice, I really don't want...) and with the assembly route I get to use Starphire in the front.

This weekend should see the remainder of the wall completed, then I'll have my final decision.

[dan2x38]

So will the tank be a Christmas gift or New Year's project? 

[darkdep]

Well, the chunk of cash that is dedicated to the tank should be here within the next week or so.  I want to do this before Christmas.  We'll see if the powers that be allow that to happen

[busdriver]

I'm ready to photgraph any time you are!

[fishman2]

what thickness of glass will you be using?

if you are interested, the best supplier for heavy plate glass in toronto is adriatic glass and mirror(less than half of a normal glass shop)
they ship across the country.

we have built several tanks, 96x30x30,72x30x30 and this summer 96x36x28

using ge1200 series silicone (3 tubes is plenty)

we used a frame on top of the tank, made of 1/2" glass, 4-6" wide, if you want to get fancy install it in 2 layers, top layer 1" shorter to create in inset for your glass top.

i would recommend installing temporary stop blocks 3/4" in from perimeter.
this makes assembly very easy

at this weight the glass likes to wander

once prep is done assembly takes no more than 30 minutes, invite some friends for the lifting.... then have a party!

nice project!

[darkdep]

Hi fishman2,

Adriatic Glass and Mirror eh?  How do they ship exactly?  I don't expect they use UPS. 

How do you attach the stop blocks?  Silicone?

[fishman2]

shipping via truck(have a fleet)

they supply furniture manufactureres with glass table tops

it is a large 40,000 sq.ft factory

stop blocks are attached with silicone (thicker) for easy removal after.

any scrap glass cut and layered to suit.

we get silicone from construction distribution supply, they may have an outlet in ottawa (under 5/tube with taxes in)

[darkdep]

Well, the dimensions I currently want are 84 x 24 x 24, so I was planning on 1/2" glass.

I'll have to give this place a call

[bitterman]

Well, the dimensions I currently want are 84 x 24 x 24, so I was planning on 1/2" glass.

I'll have to give this place a call

Why the drop in length? I thought your heart was set on a 8' tank. Now your going back to a 180 with one extra foot in length.

Bruce

[darkdep]

The wife made me give up a foot so there would be room for her couch beside it. 

Strange priorities that woman has. 

[Vizerdrix]

Does this mean you've changed your mind about pre-made and are going to make it yourself again?

[bitterman]

The wife made me give up a foot so there would be room for her couch beside it. 

Strange priorities that woman has. 

Accidentally order and built it 1' too long Once its there is can't change ... then ask forgiveness

[darkdep]

I'm back to building.  I do not have confidence that BA will be able to get the fully assembled 265gal down my stairs.  I'll lose my Starphire front pane, and have to go 30" high (which, while nice, isn't what I want).

[Brine]

Accidentally order and built it 1' too long Once its there is can't change ... then ask forgiveness

I had a Professor who taught us that "sometimes it is better to beg forgiveness than to beg permission"

[NetCop]

The wife made me give up a foot so there would be room for her couch beside it. 

Strange priorities that woman has. 

What the heck are fish going to do with a couch? 

[darkdep]

Beats me.  I mean, it's beside the tank.  It's not in front of it.  It's supposed to be for watching our big screen TV, which we've established is too big to fit down the stairs.  So I'm very confused yet very "yes dear" at the same time.

[dan2x38]

Hey she has bought into the 300g plan keep playing it safe... "Yes Dear" there just words... ROTFL 

[darkdep]

I think right now she's mad at all the fish stuff that's been happening...I've had to slow down a bit and pretend to be more interested in Christmas than my fish for a while. 

[mdugly]

Slow down

At this rate, you're gonna end up with a 10g surrounded by couches 

(sorry, couldn't resist... )

[dan2x38]

I think right now she's mad at all the fish stuff that's been happening...I've had to slow down a bit and pretend to be more interested in Christmas than my fish for a while. 

Now your thinking! She'll never suspect a thing... LOL

Actually all kidding aside you must have a great spouse to be into and allow all your projects! In fact all of us fish folks do!!! 

[darkdep]

She is great and lets me get away with a lot.  But every once and a while I have to settle down because she thinks I get out of control.  Hopefully a little non-fish time will bring things back to normal

[RoxyDog]

But every once and a while I have to settle down because she thinks I get out of control. 

I can't IMAGINE why...?     *cough* fishroom *cough* gigantic tank *cough cough*    

[darkdep]

Looks like the last few days of NOT talking fish with the wife have paid off.

I just got my "foot" back...I'm putting the tank along a different wall now, and after we talked about what she wanted out of the room, she told me an 8 foot tank was feasible "over on that wall".  YES!!!  What rocks, is that the wall the side is against is separating the main room from the laundry room.  So, with very little work, I'll be able to plumb the sump directly into a utility sink drain, and will be probably be able to plumb an incoming water line into the sump as well.  That will make maintenance easier for sure.

So, at the moment, 96" x 24" x 24" is the aimed for size.  I might add an inch or two to the width and depth but will not go 30" high (don't want thicker glass).

I have a lead on a Tennessee company that makes Acrylic tanks that seems to have extremely reasonable prices...waiting for a shipping quote from them.  Failing that, I'm back to the original plan of building with glass.  Shouldn't be long now.

Wall is up and fully mudded.  Tomorrow my wife is going to prime it, and we'll paint in a day or two (whatever colour she wants ).  Then I'll start the stand.

[bitterman]

So APW hows the progress comming?

[darkdep]

Christmas slows things down.  I'm back to the original plan of building with glass.  My hope over the few days I have off is to get the wall painted it's final colour and get the frame of the stand built.  I'll likely put in my glass order just after Christmas, and plan for a weekend day for the build pending availability of several fine folks from OVAS

[sniggir]

sounds good Chris I have alot more avaliblity in the new year

[dan2x38]

Christmas slows things down.  I'm back to the original plan of building with glass.  My hope over the few days I have off is to get the wall painted it's final colour and get the frame of the stand built.  I'll likely put in my glass order just after Christmas, and plan for a weekend day for the build pending availability of several fine folks from OVAS

Like I said Chris can't do the brute force stuff any more because of my back but can do small tasks... like hold braces, etc... or just stand around and look pretty! LMAO If you need me let me know.

[darkdep]

Will do.  There's a certain amount of desire to get two of the BA special 150's and put them side by side...but that probably won't pass the committee!  Most likely the original plan is going to happen and I'll definitely ask for your help

[Shrimpy]

There's a certain amount of desire to get two of the BA special 150's and put them side by side...

LOL I was thinking the same thing! 

[darkdep]

It would be cheaper, easier...and gives me 12ft of tank instead of 8!! 

[Shrimpy]

I was thinking back to front. More of a square shape. Remove the back glass on one and the front glass on the other and silicone the heck out of it. One big tank! 

[busdriver]

Chris, if you're still thinking of a 300 gallon acrylic tank, check out TFH for February, page 120-121, it's under the heading "Fish Nut".

[dan2x38]

In your new house you can make sure you have all the plumbing & electrical retro fitted before ya move in. Even set your tank pad in before hand too. I bet you can't wait but I am sure like me there are many who can't wait either. I/we can live precariously for my/our huge tank dreams through your experience! 

Have to post pics of the 210... 

[darkdep]

To finish off this thread...

This plan has been officially postponed.  My wife and I have decided that a new home in the next couple years is a goal for our family, and the non-removable nature of this project is counter to that.  So, I've bought a new 210gallon tank which will be my show tank for the next while.  It's only 6 feet instead of 8, but it can be moved from the house when we get a new one, and will still be an impressive sight.  I'm still planning the full sump setup and custom stand/lighting, so I'll document that for anyone interested.

[audioslave_36]

An impressive sight indeed, but now you are over the 24" mark that you were so determined not to cross.     Its all good though Chris, you learn to adapt. Get used to wet shirt sleeves  .  I know I have. And once again I am around if you need help to move it into your house.

Dave

[sniggir]

same here!

[darkdep]

Thanks guys.  Yes, I AM over the 24"...But as you said, we learn to adapt.  Pressure from the other half can be very convincing (she LOVES the height).  And, as I said to someone in line on boxing day...I could still go ahead with the DIY and be on my own, and deal with it when we move, or get this and have total interest and support from my wife.  I think I'll take that. 

She's still scrunching her face up at the sump tho.  She doesn't get that at all.