I have been mulling over the idea of starting a 30-40 gallon planted tank. I have to be honest it stems from wanting to keep and possibly breed cherry shrimp so this would be a big factor on if it is a true planted tank.
What are the chances that shrimp would work in a proper planted tank?
I have always liked live plants, although just plants doesnt work for me.
Any suggestions or warnings that I should know if I want to mix the both, and do it properly.
Thanks in advance
Brent
Breeding cherry shrimp in a planted tank is very easy. You can start with easy to grow, low maintenance plants and go from there.
Thanks, good to know.
I was reading some threads that refered to a plant (HC?). I like the idea of this having the carpet effect.
I am fairly new to the plant world, even though I know turf from college and years of working on golf courses. I just never had to study underwater plants. So I have to ask what the full name of HC is. Also will this over power or choke out any other plants I would add?
If I have read right it would be wise to invest in a CO2 set up, heater and possibly a substrate warmer. With this in mind, is it better to buy new or is used units ok?
Sorry for the multiple questions, but as I said I havent dabbled with a planted tank before and want to do it right.
HC= Hemianthus callitrichoides
It is not an easy plant for starter. It requires high light, fertilizer and CO2.
You can save money buying used, just make sure you know what you are buying, otherwise buy new.
ok, will take the suggestion on the new aspect.
As for beginner, I am new to planted tanks but not new with plants. I am sure the same rules apply to a certian extent. Being a horticulturist I just have to figure out how to make things grow under water..smiles.
ok, so now that I have decided for sure to go with a planted tank, I now have to decide on the size. I am guessing it will be some where between 30 and 50.
Now to start shopping..
Any suggestions on a good CO2 recommendation?
Effective is most important, if I dont need a top $$ unit to achieve my goal, it would be nice.
Does the photosynthesis have the same effect for water plants or does it have to be stronger for penetration?
As for a filter, should I go with a canister or is HOB enough to handle plants and shrimp?
Thanks again for the answers and time
Quote from: Brent Shaver on April 28, 2010, 10:29:04 PM
ok, will take the suggestion on the new aspect.
As for beginner, I am new to planted tanks but not new with plants. I am sure the same rules apply to a certian extent. Being a horticulturist I just have to figure out how to make things grow under water..smiles.
You have part of the equation under your belt with your background, the requirements are basically the same as most plant life -Light, Carbon, NPK, minerals.As you alluded to, making it readily available under water is the other part you need to figure out.
Quote
Any suggestions on a good CO2 recommendation?
Effective is most important, if I dont need a top $$ unit to achieve my goal, it would be nice.
Thanks again for the answers and time
They are several options - one of the most popular options is the Milwaukee regulator set up, from personal experience it get`s the job done but has some minor quirks, mainly reliability & build quality, that said it`s not wide spread, my personal experience is that it is better to spend a few extra bucks for a unit with a quality needle valve & regulator with a good build quality, such as the the Sumo Regulator, they are several other similar units available.
http://sumoregulator.com/PremierLine.html
QuoteDoes the photosynthesis have the same effect for water plants or does it have to be stronger for penetration?
Short answer - simulating sunlight is no easy task, thankfully we are doing this in much shallower depths in most tanks as opposed to nature.
QuoteAs for a filter, should I go with a canister or is HOB enough to handle plants and shrimp
Canister is much preferred for tanks that are CO2 injected, the ability to adjust the output below the water line to reduce turbulence, so as to limit CO2 outgassing is the reason.
Hope that helps
In this hobby there are several paths to the same destination, so others may have a different take, these are mine :)
Quote from: charlie on April 29, 2010, 09:26:53 AM
Short answer - simulating sunlight is no easy task, thankfully we are doing this in much shallower depths in most tanks as opposed to nature.
I found a really good site that breaks down the different lights nicely. It is the most advanced explaination I have been able to find so far. Should be enough to pick the right light for the job.
http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_Lighting.html
Quote from: charlie on April 29, 2010, 09:26:53 AM
They are several options - one of the most popular options is the Milwaukee regulator set up, from personal experience it get`s the job done but has some minor quirks, mainly reliability & build quality, that said it`s not wide spread, my personal experience is that it is better to spend a few extra bucks for a unit with a quality needle valve & regulator with a good build quality, such as the the Sumo Regulator, they are several other similar units available.
http://sumoregulator.com/PremierLine.html
The Milwaukee has been suggested by a few, although I tend to agree with the small upgrade to the sumo.
There is an old saying:
There is 2 ways to do things, Right or again, and again costs money!
It will take me a bit to get this together as I havent quite cashed in on the lottery yet...grumbles (i'm due lol)
Once I get the tank picked out I will start a build thread.
Thanks again for all the information and getting pumped about getting this started. Even have the wife agreeing under protest but at least she is agreeing....grins.
Been checking into regulators and in my journey I have come across pH monitors. These are suppose to be used for hands free operation of Co2.
Has anyone used or is using this type of unit so I could get some actual feedback vs sale pitch ratings?
I understand they arent the cheapest item out there but from what I have read and been told so far it is money well spent as it eliminates the need to monitor Co2 levels. (or at least makes it much easier)
Any feedback would be appreciated.
Thanks
Brent
Quote from: Brent Shaver on May 15, 2010, 08:08:09 AM
Been checking into regulators and in my journey I have come across pH monitors. These are suppose to be used for hands free operation of Co2.
Has anyone used or is using this type of unit so I could get some actual feedback vs sale pitch ratings?
I understand they arent the cheapest item out there but from what I have read and been told so far it is money well spent as it eliminates the need to monitor Co2 levels. (or at least makes it much easier)
Any feedback would be appreciated.
Thanks
Brent
Several debates as to the benefits, one of the arguments against it can be found below, personally i have never used one.
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/7133-CO2-with-PH-controller-question
I was looking into this unit just so you all have an idea of what I am aiming for.
It is a Foster and Smith unit
(https://www.ovas.ca/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi911.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac318%2FSoundman41%2Fco2auto.jpg&hash=06df05423a01840d009861ab270877f58fa27933)
I will defientley look into the link Charlie, thanks...
I'll echo Charlie's thumbs up for the Sumo regulator. That's what I have on my set up and it's excellent. As for a pH monitor I don't use one either. There's not much to monitor for CO2 levels. Once you get things set up to the right level at the beginning, you're done. It's not a daily thing you need to adjust.
For the set-up that you posted, an easier way to do it is to put the reactor in-line with your canister filter, that way you don't need the water pump.
Jeff
Reason I linked the power head is if the same applies a bit of current/wind makes for a stronger plant. Again new to the water plant world so just guesses.
Anyway off to golf so will check back tonight, cheers and thanks everyone..