So, I am tired of having the Algae in my Tank and want to try to reduce nitrates / phosphates as low as possible. My system is an interesting system with multiple aspects all sharing a common sump. I have a Display Tank (Roughly 90G with 110# of rock - Several fish/corals/etc..), A Frag Tank (Roughly 60G with 15# of rock - Few Fish and a Large RBTA in the corner), a refugium (Roughly 30G, Lots of Macro. Few types of Caulerpa, Chaeto, etc...), and the Sump (50G Tank but only Half Full due to baffles/etc...)
So I decided to setup an Algae Scrubber. I have a few pictures taken last night. Obviously there is no algae on the scrubber yet as I just turned it on but I am hoping in a weeks time it will be seeded. If not I will help it along. In the attached pictures you can see that the scrubber is attached to a union for easy removal and cleaning. The tank is just a small 10-15g tank I had laying around with a cracked side. A bit of silicone and it holds. Not to worried as the tank will never have more then 1.5" of water in the bottom so there is no pressure against the glass. The other 2 pipe lines coming in are from my Frag Tank. It drains into this tank as well to keep the water flow up and to cut down on the bubbles generated in my sump from the water drop.
Specs on Rev 0.1 Beta.
350GPH Pump Ehiem 1250 I think the model is.
Currently 2 23w Bulbs. One is a 6500k the other is a 2700K I will be adding more light in Rev 0.2 Beta. Using a simple terrarium hood fixture on its side with directional reflectors.
Upgrade Path:
Rev 0.2 Beta will include:
2 Scrubber mats for increased surface area scrubbing.
Possibility of a larger pump if required
Lighting will be increased to 6 Bulbs. 2 on the outside of each scrubber and 2 in the middle of the scrubbers to cover the internal scrubbing surfaces.
Quote
Quick guideline:
0.5 actual (not equivalent) fluorescent watts per gallon MINIMUM [0.13 watts per liter].
1.0 actual (not equivalent) fluorescent watts per gallon for HIGH filtering [0.26 watts per liter].
1.0 square inches of screen per gallon, with bulbs on BOTH sides (10 x 10 = 100 square inches = 100 gal)
[1.64 square cm per liter]
2.0 square inches of screen per gallon, if vertical but lit on just ONE side. [3.28 square cm per liter]
4.0 square inches of screen per gallon, if HORIZONTAL [6.56 square cm per liter].
1.5 actual (not equivalent) fluorescent watts per gallon if HORIZONTAL [0.4 watts per liter].
18 hours of lights ON, and 6 hours of lights OFF, each day.
Flow is 24 hours, and is at least 35 gph per inch of width of screen, EVEN IF one sided [60 lph per cm].
Very rough screen made of roughed-up-like-a-cactus plastic canvas.
Clean algae off of screen every SEVEN (7) days NO MATTER WHAT.
http://www.algaescrubber.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=487
Cool Jet...
Question, what's in your system? You have about 175gallons of water volume before displacement, which is very large by most standards... a good/average amount of live rock... running for 6-8 months or more... I'm kind of suprised you have any nitrate...
what are you keeping?
Doh! Wrote a long reply but got deleted accidentally. Oh well, here is truncted version.
I am delighted that a friend close to home is doing this too. I have been researching algae scrubbers a lot for the past few weeks, have innovated a version of my own design to work in tank, and already went to Home Hardware & Home Depot for the stuff. Working on assembly. I shall be following this thread with great interest. For the past couple weeks had been growing the screens already by floating them under the lights, using new wine corks from defalcos, and powerheads flowing over them, but the turbo snails have already discovered this buffet table I created. Oh well, they are already visibly seeded, so should be much faster to run once done assembly.
I had inadvertently been running a cryptic scrubber for the past several weeks, which I've only recently learned that it is an actual technique used by people. My sponges have been growing outstandingly while I've been doing light carbon dosing. My water has been testing zero across the board for nitrogen despite heavy feedings trying to encourage macroalgae growth. BTW, I am now two marine tanks, and dedicating one tank to macro grow out, and main display will have the algae scrubber.
I won't thread hijack, but ask, do you mind if I share my innovated algae scrubber design here, or would you prefer that I start a new thread? Regardless, I will certainly be lurking this thread a lot.
Oh, BTW, a few weeks ago I posted a "LF" for turf algae, to seed my screens with. No one stepped forth, and the people at two local stores refused to share any of that "junk" with me. Why am I writing this? Well, from what I since learned it really isn't a big deal. Given the right set of circumstances it will grow for you. You already have the spores in your tank. Rubbing some algae, which surely you must already have some in your tank, on the screen will leave plenty of tiny spores all over the mesh. I'm sure you probably already know this, but sharing just in case you didn't (unlikely) but also as info for someone else who might find that tidbit of info useful.
Just voicing a slight concern that perhaps should be discussed in a new thread. The algae scrubber will create an ULNT (ultra low nutrient tank). Zero nitrogen across board. Most corals and coraline should love this. Only need to change water or adjust it for minerals, not to reduce nitrates. However there is one problem that I have been having as a result of this; my tanks have been zero nitrogen for periods of time. Apparently xenia will shrivel without any nutrients. My first batch of xenia died "mysteriously" despite my other corals flourishing. Now my second batch had been experiencing same fate... though with google I think it is because my tank is "too clean"! I dosed some potassium nitriate and the xenia (tiny bit that I have left) perked up! A day or two later the nitrates must be gone and it curls up again. I am now boosting foods and keeping eye on ammonia... but having a ridiculous time even trying to raise my ammonia now! Anyhow, before I get off into a tangent, the point is that I believe it is plausible that once you get your algae scrubber running that you might discover that your xenia might not be growing as fast, or even start curling up if you get your nitrogen to zero.
Quote from: Hookup on March 16, 2011, 01:23:26 PM
Cool Jet...
Question, what's in your system? You have about 175gallons of water volume before displacement, which is very large by most standards... a good/average amount of live rock... running for 6-8 months or more... I'm kind of suprised you have any nitrate...
what are you keeping?
Nitrates and Phosphates both read 0 on my test kits, however there is more Algae growth then I would like to have so I want to bring that down to a minimal.
Fish wise:
1x Yellow Tang (small)
1x Naso Tang (Small/Medium)
1x Mandarin
2x Anthias
1x Chromis
1x Tail Spot Blenny
1x Pink Spotted Goby (Large)
2x False Percs
2x Black Saddle Back
1x XXL RBTA (Which doesn't bubble.. GRR!)
1x Small Clam
1x Reef Lobster
1x Long Spined Urchin
1x Damsel
1x Cleaner Shrimp
2x Peppermints
I think thats the major Bioload.
The frag tank is SPS dominant so Nitrates / Phosphates are now priority 1. I know I could setup a seperate system for it, but I like the challenge :)
I don't mind at all if you post your pictures / design here. This is a good learning tool for everyone. I do want a Low Nutrient tank and I don't think this scrubber will cause a Zero Nutrient tank due to my bio load which I have. I want to increase feeding to keep everything healthy and happy.
Xenia I have, its starting to become boarder line pest with the growth rates that it grows at so I really don't mind it shrinking :P My Wife plans on having a tank of her own (WAHOO! Allows for me to have more leeeeway in things) and it will not be a "clean" system per say so Xenia will be moved to that system.
If anyone is actually using this form of nutrient export, feel free to share in this thread as well. I am not dedicating it directly to my own design / experiences with it.
HappyGuppy, I have a question specifically for you. Obviously I would love to see pictures :P But what I am curious is what light schedule are you planning on? I know some people do 24/7 on or some 18/6 or 12/12. I am learning more to 18/6. I believe that plants should have a "rest" period and not just consistently growing. I have found with plants at home if they are given rest periods they ultimately do better and are more healthy.
Thoughts? Opinions always welcome.
doesnt sound like a crazy bio-load, but you can see growth of algae so it's there...
I too read 0ppm but I have some recurring hair-algae in my sump/fuge (weird eh?) and therefore know that the "available phosphates" are 0ppm, but that the hair-algae is consuming as much as it can when it becomes available.
I harvest/remove the algae from my system ever 3 weeks for the past 9 weeks.... I got to fix that problem too.. ;)
Looking fwd to your results...
So many people swear by these style of nutrient removes...
Quote from: Hookup on March 16, 2011, 02:32:42 PM
I too read 0ppm but I have some recurring hair-algae in my sump/fuge (weird eh?) and therefore know that the "available phosphates" are 0ppm, but that the hair-algae is consuming as much as it can when it becomes available.
Thats the same with me. I don't have any hair algae, but I do have worse.. Tuttle Weed AKA Maidens Hair AKA chlorodesmis fastigiata. PAIN to get rid of. Nothing eats it.. great for Pods but it looks horrible I find and you can't simple PULL it off because it is very tightly woven to the rockwork. I don't want to tear down my rock work to get rid of it either so the only option I have is to starve it. I want to starve all the algae in my tank. (No offence HappyGuppy :P I know you like Macro, but I like my corals better)
My kits all read 0 but I know for a fact there is nutrients in the water with the rates that the algaes grow at. So yeah, the nutrients are all being consumed so the kit can't register it. I just want to control where they are being consumed :)
Short reply on iPod. Jetjumper will get photos soon. Sorry procrastinated. You are welcome to visit if in Kanata.
Should have scrubber done weekend. Will take pics. In short it is a floating raft under lamp using air lift of water to screen. Very simple.
HIJACK INCOMMING
Happy - go to AquaValley... check the back wall, the left side tanks... IMO, some awesome macro algae's... just awesome looking...
ps: Algae sucks... :(
haha... went to test my nitrate and phosphate tonight in hopes to start the battle... they expired last year.. (one in 2009 haha)... I'm going with the Hanna checkers...
Hey Jet interesting post researched this have consider it but I have no algae issues.
Jet what equipment you running? Using RO/DI? etc...
Quote from: dan2x38 on March 19, 2011, 12:46:48 AM
Hey Jet interesting post researched this have consider it but I have no algae issues.
Jet what equipment you running? Using RO/DI? etc...
Hey, I am using RODI water for my top up and for water changes. Part of the problem I think in the beginning was no filter socks and a lot of stuff was piling up in the fuge since the main display dumped into there. Now there are socks in place to catch a lot of the crap that makes its way out.
I am also rinsing food first now before putting it in and adjusted the skimmer to produce a more wet skim.
Update:
Here are some updated pictures of the Scrubber. I added 2 more lights on the other side to help the process.
PS: I seeding those 3 chunks to see if they would grow. Its a caulerpa strain.
Double post.
Yet another photo update. No change in the tank condition yet, but the scrubber is growing!
Any updates on this Jet? Also maybe I missed it in the posts but what do you use for the screen material? I am thinking of building a small one for my tank too, so I was following this topic to see if you had the success you were looking for.
So far I don't have any more photo updates. I plan on changing the design today due to the fact that my lights are too far away. I am getting growth, but nothing like what I should be as shown on other people's scrubbers found on the WWW.
Hopefully tonight I will have some pictures of it right now and after I make my changes.
Okay cool. Pictures are good but I really want to know if your tank is benefiting the way you hoped it would from this scrubber. Once you get it going full steam, let us know if you are reducing your algae in the display tank.
Quote from: NanoSF on April 03, 2011, 12:50:24 PM
Okay cool. Pictures are good but I really want to know if your tank is benefiting the way you hoped it would from this scrubber. Once you get it going full steam, let us know if you are reducing your algae in the display tank.
Part of my problem was also direct sunlight. I have since installed curtains :)
Quote from: NanoSF on April 03, 2011, 12:42:16 PM
Any updates on this Jet? Also maybe I missed it in the posts but what do you use for the screen material? I am thinking of building a small one for my tank too, so I was following this topic to see if you had the success you were looking for.
The screen material is from walmart in the crafts section. I don't know the name of it per say. Knitting Screen?
Great thanks. Looking forward to hearing you have improved results. :)
So I fiddled around with it tonight and cleaned the screen for the first time. With what I have available to myself currently I cannot move the lights any closer to the screen with out risking salt on an open socket and causing a fire. Not going to do that today.
I shortened the screen down a bit as I was having dry spots (Gotta hate that!) I have it running off an Eheim 1250 or something like that. Which is only 3XX GPH. When I add 2 screens and more lights I will need to get a new pump (Not in the budget right now)
Hopefully now the screen is seeded well enough for it to grow quicker.
Pictures hopefully tomorrow.
Update coming in 5 minutes.
Alrighty, here we go.
I modified the scrubber last weekend. April 3rd. I cleaned off the screen, made it a bit smaller and more flow over the entire surface area.
Here is a before Picture just before I cleaned the screen. (roughly 2 weeks worth of "seeding" growth.) You can see the white spots where there was little to NO waterflow.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_UHrI1Pg9nIw/TZ5XmqHxoBI/AAAAAAAAAnY/v_93BAj-qhI/s800/IMG_0933.JPG)
After cleaning the screen and leaving it sit till today, this is what it now looks like:
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_UHrI1Pg9nIw/TZ5WhzG6D5I/AAAAAAAAAmY/N-rh5uZp8OE/s800/IMG_0935.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_UHrI1Pg9nIw/TZ5WjPp7rKI/AAAAAAAAAmc/ltQZSUHSWNc/s800/IMG_0936.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_UHrI1Pg9nIw/TZ5WkQ5xnRI/AAAAAAAAAmg/zZfy3kf6dQ8/s800/IMG_0937.JPG)
Algae in the tank is still there, but it doesn't seem to be growing as fast as before. Is the scrubber working? I don't know. Reason is because too many variables have changed recently. I haven't done a water change yet. BUT! I did install curtains that now block all the natural light that was hitting the tank before. If the algae on the rock (Here are some pictures) disappear, then I know the scrubber is doing its job. Time will tell!
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_UHrI1Pg9nIw/TZ5WtPlOaQI/AAAAAAAAAnA/4qd4BGodhF0/s800/IMG_0944.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_UHrI1Pg9nIw/TZ5WugdrrJI/AAAAAAAAAnE/ia-AKgqITSs/s800/IMG_0945.JPG)
I think once the turf screen has a good algae base built onto it, it will work better.. but I am still in the break in period. Which will last a good month till improvements I think. My lights are a little far away for what I want, but I had planned on installing 2 screens into that tank area which would put them both closer to the lights on either side. But for now, it is how it is.
Growth seems good on the scrubber. I think the curtains are going to make a big difference. Especially this time a year, sunlight can grow algae like crazy. Thanks for posting updates.
Just checked and the algae is growing great now! Pictures in a few days.
Its getting thicker :) Sunday is the clean up day.. so I will be clearing the screen as they recommend to clean it once a week.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_UHrI1Pg9nIw/TaB-8lVWaQI/AAAAAAAAAoU/glDistox59Y/s800/IMG_0955.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_UHrI1Pg9nIw/TaB_AvI4MiI/AAAAAAAAAoY/bzTihUEST8g/s800/IMG_0956.JPG)
You can see that on some parts of the scrubber the lighter green is starting to grow. This apparently is actually a good sign. Light green algae means less nutrients in the water from what I understand so far about this method of nutrient export. The darker the colour of the algae, well.. I am sure you can figure that out :P
If this works out the way people claim they work, I should eventually be able to turn off my skimmer and not have to run it. We shall see.
Here is also a link to lots of designs incase anyone is wanting to do some research and make their own.
http://www.algaescrubber.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=26
That is looking great Jet. And by great I mean disgusting in a good way ;D Thanks for posting results, and for the link. Maybe in a few months I will PM you and see what the lower nutrient tank is doing. Ever since I added a fuge to mine and brought my nitrates to zero, I have noticed much slower growth of softies. So I am still on the fence as to the benefits of adding a scrubber.
Looks just nasty and ugly... just like it should... :) great job!
I need to get a scrubber going on my current system again..
But I thought I would restart this topic with some inspiration!
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-SetPW1tH5xk/T03wTcT3-kI/AAAAAAAAB8k/4ojnR5fVn4g/s800/DSC_0282.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-2FOBLsYeDqY/T03xchCwQtI/AAAAAAAAB9M/FUa8Ia1FqSo/s800/DSC_0301.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-xlmUqVDR3nM/T03xd3JHY1I/AAAAAAAAB9U/SGiYCkblboE/s800/DSC_0307.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-cMWiXY_Crbw/T03xiT-39gI/AAAAAAAAB9s/TDXb7p4gK5c/s800/DSC_0320.JPG)
FTS:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-AFtSPtB7Hgc/TyWADYjw4GI/AAAAAAAAB6s/8eDzCrliypE/s800/DSC_0006-1.JPG)
More pictures here: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1838193&page=13
I believe the main reason they are not widely used is the space they take up and the mess/splash factor they can have.
They are awesome and if I get to redesigning my sump I would try my hardest to encorporate one as well.
What ya thinking DIY king? When's this project going to rock and roll!?
Jet there's another guy who used a algea scrubber on RC's but not like this system only in his sump compartment . I don't know if you know & read his thread saying he never do a water change but his sps in his tank freaking huge colony amazing I'll go check tonight this guy name. I know this guy was he from Africa , I mean this guy who used a DIY algea scrubber amazing a look at those Formosa & prostrata colony:)
I have seen a few people say they never do water changes. Mind you they are dosing everything under the sun, so no need for the water changes to replenish mineral salts.
I am still debating on how I am going to setup the algae scrubber. The one above I just posted is sun power which I would love to do, but I don't have that luxury in the location I want to do it. So I am thinking LED's as they grow algae no problem.. just need to come up with a plan... hmmm.. thinking cap is on.
Here's my latest photo from my tank...." I don't use gfo or carbon" since a couple of months ago now just sandbed of caribic sea mud or miracle mud & cheatos as well liverocks. I've got coraline algae everywehere thats all ;D I thought I could share here. got no hair algae I think my kole tang its been taking care of it ;D
http://s1111.photobucket.com/albums/h461/Pete_1809/?action=view¤t=007-1.jpg
I think I have a plan on what I am going to do. The design will consist of 3 screens with a rough dimension of 10"x24" per screen double sided. There will be 8 T5 HO bulbs in total to light up this contraption. 2 bulbs on each face of the screens. The screens will be on a removable slide (Cut into the plumbing) to allow for easy cleaning. The box will be mostly wood with a few glass panels on it and a drain at the bottom to fall into my fuge (Allow for a massive pod population :))
Attached is a picture of what I mean for further insight.
What do you think?
I've never been huge into sw, but your tank is of superb quality. The water is so clean and the sps so healthy. Kudos, you must be proud!
Quote from: exv152 on March 03, 2012, 09:35:17 AM
I've never been huge into sw, but your tank is of superb quality. The water is so clean and the sps so healthy. Kudos, you must be proud!
thanks! but I cannot take credit. That tank belongs to a guy in Africa that uses the sun to light his tank. I only wish I had a system like that!
Quote from: JetJumper on March 02, 2012, 10:18:49 PM
I think I have a plan on what I am going to do. The design will consist of 3 screens with a rough dimension of 10"x24" per screen double sided. There will be 8 T5 HO bulbs in total to light up this contraption. 2 bulbs on each face of the screens. The screens will be on a removable slide (Cut into the plumbing) to allow for easy cleaning. The box will be mostly wood with a few glass panels on it and a drain at the bottom to fall into my fuge (Allow for a massive pod population :))
Attached is a picture of what I mean for further insight.
What do you think?
hey jet, i thought the general rule was 1sq inch per gallon with light on both sides.
your plan would be good for a 720 gallon tank!
your set up cost would be high if you had to buy the lights, as well as ongoing electricity costs, and it may strip too much from your water making the corals unhappy.
maybe reduce/remove the two bulbs on the left and the two bulbs on the right side to start, it would still be rated for 480 gallons i think and you would only need half the bulb/electricity.
i have no experience with ATS but have read a lot about them.
Hey.. appreciate the input.
I was reading on reefcentral last night with regards to the rule of thumb and they have modified the rule again. I don't typically feed a lot, and I have high flow in my 120G display. Total water volume of what I have right now is around 300G. However phosphates seem to be a consistent battle for me trying to get them lower then 0.1-0.2 (Although not high, I want them around 0.03) I also want to feed more then I currently do for fish and to target feed corals to increase growth in them as well. I have to clean my glass once ever day or two currently so its a nightmare as it grows back with a vengeance it seems.
I almost think my rocks are leaching out phosphates so thats why I wanted to have a larger then normal scrubber for the initial, then dial it back.
The lighting I have some bulbs kicking around already and the ballast as well so the cost isn't going to be large at the start.
Check out this page on reefcentral. So real good information here! I am thinking up a new plan change based upon this information. http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1977420&page=131 (http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1977420&page=131)
I need to do it soon though!!!!!!!!!!!
Quote from: JetJumper on March 04, 2012, 01:24:04 PM
Hey.. appreciate the input.
I was reading on reefcentral last night with regards to the rule of thumb and they have modified the rule again. I don't typically feed a lot, and I have high flow in my 120G display. Total water volume of what I have right now is around 300G. However phosphates seem to be a consistent battle for me trying to get them lower then 0.1-0.2 (Although not high, I want them around 0.03) I also want to feed more then I currently do for fish and to target feed corals to increase growth in them as well. I have to clean my glass once ever day or two currently so its a nightmare as it grows back with a vengeance it seems.
I almost think my rocks are leaching out phosphates so thats why I wanted to have a larger then normal scrubber for the initial, then dial it back.
The lighting I have some bulbs kicking around already and the ballast as well so the cost isn't going to be large at the start.
Check out this page on reefcentral. So real good information here! I am thinking up a new plan change based upon this information. http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1977420&page=131 (http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1977420&page=131)
I need to do it soon though!!!!!!!!!!!
I read the whole thread.
It makes me wanna build an LED algae scrubber!!!!
Is this really works? I mean does it really reduced your nitrates & phospate? Nice work jet:)
Quote from: kole18 on March 04, 2012, 08:38:46 PM
Is this really works? I mean does it really reduced your nitrates & phospate? Nice work jet:)
It's a proven tool. One of many. It works.
I wish there was a way to measure how effective it is when compared to the more traditional growing chaeto in a refugium.
I'm using caribic sea mud & cheatos & I don't use gfo or carbon in my sump anymore almost 3 months from now. Corals are ok I've seen a growth specially my Millie's & monti, my superman monti's color came back got browned out I thought I'm going to loose this monti & now coloration really amaze me. I've seen this guy from RC's his tank really amazing from Africa I think this is the guy you just posted here jet those colony of Formosa acro. Interresting I would probably do this the future:)
Time to update with what I have accomplished so far. I decided to incorp. it into my fuge instead of building the box I was planning on.
Took an old Eco Pump 633 and created a nice straight line plumbing job for it and hooked this up. See pictures below :)
2x 10w LED fixtures are powering the screen + fuge down below.
hi jet, can you post a link to the led fixture you are using?
it looks cool but doesn't look like its using red leds, so it may not work?
this info was in the link you posted,
Here’s the bottom line: you only need RED. Nothing else is really necessary. White LEDs of any kind have not proven to be highly effective, and neither are Blues (with the exception that they accompany reds in a low ratio).
The best results so far have utilized 660nm “Deep Red” LEDs; there have been far fewer attempts using 630nm Red LEDs. These wavelengths roughly correspond with the Chlorophyll A and B red peaks. Optionally, some 455nm Royal Blue LEDs can be thrown in; according to horticulturalists, and one study by NASA, this ratio is approximately 7:1 red: blue.
One Algae Scrubber user, who has made multiple LED Algae Scrubbers over the past couple years, commented that the use of only 660nm produced great growth, but with the addition of a single blue LED, that growth got ‘stronger’. The algae was more difficult to scrape from the screen, and the strands were more stringy or ribbon-like, and less hair-like. This anecdotal evidence suggests that the blue component is used supplementally in some fashion. So a little blue can’t hurt; add too many and you’re probably just wasting power.
The problem is this: when it comes to LED, you have to throw the Kelvin rating out the window. It means nothing for Algae Scrubbers, it is only good for trying to match the color rendering given by a comparable fluorescent lamp that is used in a home or office. Remember, LEDs are a different type of light source and isn’t UV based and shifted with phosphors. Any LED lamp/bulb/floodlight/etc you can buy in a store that is not specifically a grow lamp is completely useless
Quote from: leemay on March 10, 2012, 11:10:47 AM
hi jet, can you post a link to the led fixture you are using?
it looks cool but doesn't look like its using red leds, so it may not work?
this info was in the link you posted,
Here's the bottom line: you only need RED. Nothing else is really necessary. White LEDs of any kind have not proven to be highly effective, and neither are Blues (with the exception that they accompany reds in a low ratio).
The best results so far have utilized 660nm "Deep Red" LEDs; there have been far fewer attempts using 630nm Red LEDs. These wavelengths roughly correspond with the Chlorophyll A and B red peaks. Optionally, some 455nm Royal Blue LEDs can be thrown in; according to horticulturalists, and one study by NASA, this ratio is approximately 7:1 red: blue.
One Algae Scrubber user, who has made multiple LED Algae Scrubbers over the past couple years, commented that the use of only 660nm produced great growth, but with the addition of a single blue LED, that growth got 'stronger'. The algae was more difficult to scrape from the screen, and the strands were more stringy or ribbon-like, and less hair-like. This anecdotal evidence suggests that the blue component is used supplementally in some fashion. So a little blue can't hurt; add too many and you're probably just wasting power.
The problem is this: when it comes to LED, you have to throw the Kelvin rating out the window. It means nothing for Algae Scrubbers, it is only good for trying to match the color rendering given by a comparable fluorescent lamp that is used in a home or office. Remember, LEDs are a different type of light source and isn't UV based and shifted with phosphors. Any LED lamp/bulb/floodlight/etc you can buy in a store that is not specifically a grow lamp is completely useless
Its not using red, you are correct. I had these fixtures already that I was using to grow my Chaeto. They are 6500 rated 10W LED's.
Similar to this:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/10W-80V-240V-850LM-High-Powered-LED-Waterproof-Light-Lamp-Bulb-White-Outdoor-/290680595674?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43ade9e4da
I may upgrade the LED's in the future, but for now I just want to get it started. Total build cost was $3.16. Most of the parts I already had :)
cool, looking forward to a update. :)
maybe you will prove the article wrong!
at least you can compare the white leds to the cf bulbs.
how big is your screen on your latest version?
I'm holding off building an ats until i can get a red led par30/38 bulb locally.
The screen is uncut. Its the stock size that comes from walmart. I believe its 20" x 10" i will double check later once I find my tape measure :)
3 days in.
hey jet, any update on the white leds?
how would you compare the white leds to the cf bulbs?
thanks
Update time!
I attached 2 pictures. One being before cleaning and the other after cleaning the screen. So far that is cleaned once a week and it produces that amount. I had to add a CFL to the screen on one side, however both sides of the screen look the same.
So there is a 13W CFL and 2x 10Watt 6500K LEDs
I haven't tested my phosphates in a bit because I have been doing rather large water changes on the system weekly so I haven't bothered. But I do notice a lot less glass algae in 2 of the tanks on the system. Could be from waterchanges though.. :(