OVAS

Hey everyone,

Its been a while since I have posted.  I had moved 8 months ago..used to live in Ottawa for a few years.  I still have both my tanks and they have been doing really good.  None of my fish are ill.  But I definitely miss having a pressurized CO2 system pumping into it because the plants used to be very full and along with that the fish enjoyed it much better that way.

When I moved out of the city, I had left the CO2 system with my ex-bf because something had happened to it not too long after it was refilled and we didn't figure out what the problem was. 

I think the brand name of the system was by Sumo although I am not sure because I wasn't the one who chose to order it. 

What system would you recommend?  I would appreciate it if you can include a link where I could order it please and thank you.  :D

This will be for my 75gal again.  I kept the UV sterilizer and diffuser that was hooked up to the canister filters.  So when I get the CO2 pumping again..those things will be hooked back up as well.  I will just need to refresh how to know how much CO2 will be needed.  I have a total of 162 watts (2.16wpg) from the T5HO.  I will need to get the powder ferts from B&B Hydroponics in Kanata again as I don't think there is anywhere in the Pembroke/Renfrew area that carries them.  I follow the EI chart.  I will also need to find a place that will fill me 20 pounds of CO2.

Anyways..I'm lost without your advice.  I don't want to make a poor decision on which brand name so I will be happy to read your responses.

Bye for now and thank you.

Stephanie

Hi Stephanie, B&B hydroponics is an excellent source for dry ferts but they're located on Woodward dr.  I would call ahead because they're only open 9-5pm Mon-Fri and don't always have every dry fert in stock.  As far as regulators go, it all depends on what you're willing to pay. Some decent brands are cornelius, smith for single stage, or if you want to go 2-stage; Matheson, concoa, victor, airgas are a few, but they will cost considerably more. There's a really good source online at http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/sponsors-power-seller-specials/ (http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/sponsors-power-seller-specials/) where people build them for other hobbyists for a bit cheaper than the established retailers out there. I bought mine from a very well established retailer in the US, but it cost a pretty penny but it comes with a 2 year warranty. My regulator was also rigorously tested for a 48hr period before shipping. I'm told the reg should last me a lifetime. With a 75g tank you probably want to begin slow, like 1-2bps and work your way up to the desired level of dissolved co2. There's a place in Gatineau – Pyromatek, that fills CO2 cylinders for reasonable.  Good luck! It's always exciting to get back into the hobby with a new project.

Thank you for the reply.  I will definitely be checking out those brand names and feel more safe making a decision.  Thanks for the tip on calling the B&B Hydroponics store first before actually going..I only went once before and I wouldn't have thought that they would run out of ferts but then again I know people know it saves to use those compared to the liquid bottles you get at fish shops.

I do have my 20 gal beside the 75gal..but its a low light tank with java moss and anubias..I never add ferts to it or co2..but if you have any input about it please feel free to tell me if you would have co2 pumping into both tanks and how to go about doing it.  I'm guessing I would need 2 bubble counters..but other than that I need to learn more.

I may also check on kijiji and ebay to see if there are any regulators and all with it.

Bye for now, thank you.

Stephanie

Quote from: ottawa_fry22 on March 31, 2012, 01:13:14 AM...I do have my 20 gal beside the 75gal..but its a low light tank with java moss and anubias..I never add ferts to it or co2..but if you have any input about it please feel free to tell me if you would have co2 pumping into both tanks and how to go about doing it.  I'm guessing I would need 2 bubble counters..but other than that I need to learn more.

Hi Stephanie, You can add co2 to your 20g if you wish to see the plants take off, but you'll have to begin dosing ferts daily. To split the co2 I'd recommend a co2 manifold with separate needle valve and bubble counter because each tank will require a different bubble count. As for leaving it the way it is, that's viable but I still recommend dosing ferts at least once a week, ferts like KNO3 and KH2PO4, and a micro nutrient like equilibrium or flourish comprehensive. You can grow almost any plant in a low tech set up but the rate of growth is considerably reduced. Here is an excellent source I found online a couple of years ago for doing low tech...http://www.sudeepmandal.com/hobbies/planted-aquarium/low-tech-planted-tank-guide/ (http://www.sudeepmandal.com/hobbies/planted-aquarium/low-tech-planted-tank-guide/) What kind of lighting are you using for the 75 & 25g?

Thanks again for the great info.  :D

My 75gal has T5HO, a total of 162 watts (2.16wpg).  I have only one of the lights on since I moved to decrease algae on glass.  The light is on a timer for approximately 10 hours per day.

The 20gal just has 2 tubular 25 watt bulbs that you can buy for a few bucks at almost any pet supply store.  So a total of 50watts.  And a hang-on-back filter, which is kinda old.  I also have a little power head running in there.

I still am thinking about having both tanks running c02.  I would only need the one 20 pound cylinder/tank correct?  I just need to find a picture or something so that I know what the complete system would look like for both tanks. :)

I really appreciate your amount of efforts providing me with this great information.       :D

Thank you,
Stephanie

You can turn both lights on if you plant the tank densely and add the nutrients I mentioned earlier for a low tech setup (once a week). You don't even need to do water changes if you have a decent fish load. The addition of more plants, reducing the lighting to 8hrs/day and ferts should eliminate the algae. Also when doing low-tech keeping the co2 levels constant (hence no water changes only topping off evaporated water) is key to maintaining the setup. To run both tanks on one co2 cylinder you'll need something similar to what you see in the second link below. I also included a link to a reputable plant website that speaks at great length about how to properly split co2 among more than one tank. Don't worry about asking for help, it's fun to see someone else's project take off too.
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/equipment/114738-how-split-co2-into-2-tanks.html (http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/equipment/114738-how-split-co2-into-2-tanks.html)

http://greenleafaquariums.com/co2-manifolds-splitters.html (http://greenleafaquariums.com/co2-manifolds-splitters.html)
for a picture... http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/planted-nano-tanks/126181-co2-splitter.html (http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/planted-nano-tanks/126181-co2-splitter.html)

I`ll chip in with my cent  ;), as mentioned the only proper way to split co2 feed to multiple tanks from one co2 set up is with multiple needle valves, the splitter can be easily built by your self with some brass fittings which can be obtained from your local Rona or Home Depot, here is a pic of one i built.

I'm getting excited the more that I research the CO2 equipment.  I just started to understand more about the parts needed.  That is my weak point in the hobby is the technical stuff, putting stuff together correctly, having it work properly.

I mostly have been checking out the regulators shown on that green leaf aquariums site, which are GLA brand.  They look close to what I had before.  But I still have yet to spend some time looking on ebay or kijiji because that would probably work out alot better to find something that is in good shape. 

I remember I had Ideal Valve 52-1-11.  That is the check valve (needle valve) that you turn to adjust the bubble count right?  I would need to make sure I have a dual manifold for the 2 bubble counters that hook on top of that piece if I am correct.  I was getting confused about the dual manifold, meaning 2 valves where the bubble counters hook on top is what I figured out.  I don't want any fancy bubble counters..just the brassy looking ones like what Charlie shows in his pics posted.  They look stable.

The most common location for leaks is the connector nut which I read needs a nylon seal which I notice looks like a rubbery looking washer/ring.  Or permaseal which I am not quite sure exactly what it is.  Which is preferred?

Solenoid valve is understandable.  Need it to set a timer and its also like the adapter of the system.

I am looking at the diagram on green leaf aquariums and it states a part called Pressure Relief Valve.  But it doesn't point out where it is on the diagram.  The only thing I remember from when I had my last CO2 setup is that the Reactor 1000 diffuser has a knob to turn to release pressure.  Is that what its talking about?  I kinda forget whether it was turned when starting up the filters for a minute or two.  I will definitely have to learn how to run the setup safely.

There is word that silicone tubing is not the best to use but some people have found that it worked just fine and didn't have any leaks.  What is your take on the silicone vs. co2 resistant tubing?  The correct size would be 1/4" right?

I've had an offer on a Milawakee brand regulator..but I don't live in the city anymore and I don't drive.  So I will be looking around in my area which is Pembroke/Renfrew.

Thanks,
Stephanie

M A 9 5 7     C O 2     R E G U L A T O R

Found this on:     http://www.aquariumsupplies.ca/regulator-p-798.html      from Ancaster, Ontario

$118.00

Also found same one on :  http://www.petsandponds.com/en/aquarium-supplies/c378121399/p17160403.html
again Canada and for $105.00

Any bad reviews for this one?  Asking because its in Canada and might order it if its good. 

A dual manifold for having 2 bubble counters can be changed on any solenoid right? 

So far I have checked on ebay and there is nothing good.  Nothing on kijiji either.

Hi Stephanie, It really depends on what you're willing to pay. Milwaukee is somewhere near the bottom of what's considered a solid regulator, and I've heard both good and bad about them. For a few bucks more you can get a reliable unit. It really is a question of you get what you pay for with regulators. If you want to spend less money, then I would suggest you look at Aquatek or Azoo regulators, they've had some decent performance reviews from the reseach I did last year.

I can definitely pay more for a good regulator.  I just need to find a site that is Canadian and has something better quality.  ;)

Quote from: ottawa_fry22 on April 02, 2012, 09:01:31 PM
M A 9 5 7     C O 2     R E G U L A T O R

Found this on:     http://www.aquariumsupplies.ca/regulator-p-798.html      from Ancaster, Ontario

$118.00

Also found same one on :  http://www.petsandponds.com/en/aquarium-supplies/c378121399/p17160403.html
again Canada and for $105.00

Any bad reviews for this one?  Asking because its in Canada and might order it if its good.  

The Milwaukee regulators are certainly the entry level regulators where all in one plug & play is the requirement,like all regulators in this price point they can be hit or miss, having used several of these in my earlier beginings of pressurized co2 i can say that with some slight tweaks they can be somewhat stable enough to meet most requirements, the customer service is second to none & even surpasses the the more costly ones.

QuoteA dual manifold for having 2 bubble counters can be changed on any solenoid right?  

That is correct.
Regards

Ok so Charlie's regulator is a Micro Matic from what I see in the provided pictures.  I will read up on those.  :D

Eric what brand you use?

If anyone else has viewed this post and you run CO2 could you please take a moment to drop me a line on what your brand name is?  This should make it more easier for me to choose one hopefully. lol

Definitely have been providing me with great information.  :D

Thank you.

Stephanie

I actually run 2 regualtors to 2 different tanks one is as pictured micromatic with twin swagelok needle valves, the other is a Cornelious Regulator body with a swagelok needle valve, this one is ran 24/7 with no solenoid( Solenoid failed).
Errol

I am running a Milwaukee MA957on my tank with no problems so far.  ;D

I brought the psi up to 20 and set the bps with the needle valve. So far it keeps an accurate bubble count.

Quote from: ottawa_fry22 on April 03, 2012, 02:28:00 PM
...Eric what brand you use?...

I have a cornelius regulator with a fabco needle valve, brass bubble counter & custom solenoid, hooked up to a 10lbs cylinder. The thing is solid as a rock. The next thing I'm eyeing up is getting myself a pH controller, but I'm still undecided.

Thanks for the replies on your equipment guys. :D

I am interested in a pH controller too.  I had a drop checker before and it felt kinda useless and hair algae likes to stick to it.  Something digital would be cool.  :)

Been looking at this Cornelius Reg.  I wonder if that red shut off valve should be replaced with something better in case it breaks?  Is this reg. recommended?

http://homebrewgearcanada.com/cornelius-primary-regulator-co2

But then I am more pulled towards the Micro Matic....

http://www.micromatic.com/draft-keg-beer/regulators-pid-642.html

At least Micromatic has some locations in the northern US area instead of farther down.

Any comments?

Honestly..looking for all these parts I will need is hard.  It doesn't come natural to me.  I hope the rest of the parts like solenoid and dual manifold,etc won't give me this much of a headache. lol

Stephanie  :D

Hi Stephanie, You'd still need a needle valve, bubble counter, check valve, and solenoid to convert it for aquarium use, and factor the costs of those parts into it. Also, the Cornelius regulator seems right but the gauge for cylinder pressure (left gauge) is intended for a higher pressure application because, as you can see, it begins at almost 1300psi, which really isn't too useful. You'd ideally want something that measures units on a smaller scale. Your cylinder pressure is going to be somewhere between 800-900psi when full, and I think it'll be hard to read on that gauge.  The other components needed (needle valve, bubble counter, solenoid, check valve) may end up costing you more in the end, whereas if you buy it as a package you'll get it hopefully cheaper. Also those peripheral parts are really the difference needed to make CO2 work efficiently and safely on an aquarium.  

Quote from: ottawa_fry22 on April 05, 2012, 03:51:56 AM
Been looking at this Cornelius Reg.  I wonder if that red shut off valve should be replaced with something better in case it breaks?  Is this reg. recommended?

http://homebrewgearcanada.com/cornelius-primary-regulator-co2

But then I am more pulled towards the Micro Matic....

http://www.micromatic.com/draft-keg-beer/regulators-pid-642.html

At least Micromatic has some locations in the northern US area instead of farther down.

Any comments?

Honestly..looking for all these parts I will need is hard.  It doesn't come natural to me.  I hope the rest of the parts like solenoid and dual manifold,etc won't give me this much of a headache. lol

Stephanie  :D

The red shut off valve is removed for our purposes & replaced with a 1/4 NPT to 1/8NPT female reducing bushing,
I will try & post a picture with all the parts required in an expplosive view so you can see what is needed & how they interconnect.
Regards

Here you go, hope this helps.
First pic the red valve is removed
2ND pic - the explosive view - the red shut off valve is replaced by a 1/4 inch NPT to 1/8 inch NPT female reducer bushing
then a I/8 - 1/8 male NPT nipple then your solenoid
Then a 90 deg 1/8 NPT Male to Female street elbow
1/8  extension
3 way 1/8  female block
2- 1/8 90 deg male to female elbows
needle valves
90deg elbow
bubble counter x 2
picture only shows 1 needle vale& B/counter, the other side is mirrored to the one shown, depending on the type of needle valve the size of the threaded port Will dictate what fitting is used to mount it & the bubble counter, all threaded fittings is put together with teflon tape or non hardening pipe sealent, all brass fittings after the 1/4 - 1/8 female reducing bushing is 1/8 inch NPT threads, these can be found @ mos Hardware stores such as Rona,Homedepot.
Regards
Hope this helps you

Thank you Charlie for the picture layout and detailing the list of parts.  Very much appreciated.  :D
That is much better than what that Rex Rigg provided on his site. lol

Thanks for pointing the left gauge out on the Cornelius Eric.
I decided to go with the Micro Matic reg.  It looks to have the same left gauge as Charlie uses.  Am I right Charlie?  But it says on the link 0-3000psi??  http://www.micromatic.com/draft-keg-beer/regulators-pid-642.html

I will want to use a 20pound cylinder like I had before.  I will try hunting down the brass fittings at Canadian Tire.  Should be able to find them there in Pembroke/Renfrew.

I thought of something last night...about my 20gal..since I want to run co2 to 2 tanks..will I need a diffuser hooked to the 20gal as well?  It only has a hang on back filter. O_O  My 75gal will have its Reactor 1000 diffuser put back on it.

Thanks,
Stephanie

Quote from: ottawa_fry22 on April 05, 2012, 04:47:21 PM...I thought of something last night...about my 20gal..since I want to run co2 to 2 tanks..will I need a diffuser hooked to the 20gal as well?  It only has a hang on back filter. O_O  My 75gal will have its Reactor 1000 diffuser put back on it....

Everything after the bubble counter will need to be duplicated when you have two tanks running off one cylinder. You can use a diffuser, atomizer or reactor, it really doesn't matter, they're all very efficient in their own way.

That is correct the micromatic gauge is the same, there is nothing wrong with the Cornelius gauge, each  indicator/marking/line is indicative of one unit so it goes 500-600-700 & so on
either regulator is good as far as single stage goes for aquarium useage, the Micromatic in my opinion trumps the Cornelius in build quality so good choice.
I highly doubt you will find the brass fittings @ Cdn.tire, Home depot or Rona is your best bet, you can get them on line too but i think it`s a bit more.
Your Auqamedic 1000 is an excellent reactor for the 20 you can use a ceramic diffuser such as the Fluval CO 2 diffuser, but i would suggest going with a Canister filter for the 20 Gln , HOB filter has a cascade effect which contributes to CO2 out gassing
Regards
http://www.petsandponds.com/en/aquarium-supplies/c378121399/p17626214.html

Just checked out the group post for MicroMatic.  That is great that you all can get together and build them. :)  I will be getting some help from my bf on putting it all together.  I am getting excited.

So I see that it is suggested to order the clippard solenoid from Wainbee Canada.

I would like to order the Ideal needle valve locally.  I still need to find where...

As for brass fittings or the manifold I guess its called..we have hardware stores around Eganville/Pembroke/Renfrew area..but no Rona or Home Depot.

Bubble counter should be a Fluval..need to find where to order that..

And check valve..if Rick's Hobbies and Aquaria dosn't have any then I will have to make a trip to ottawa..I need to get my dry ferts anyway.

I hope I can get this all in my hands soon enough.  I am getting excited and can't wait to see my plants grow like crazy again.  :D

Stephanie there is a Rona on Gillian Rd., in Renfrew and also a Home Depot in Pembroke at the East end on Robinson Lane, behind Timmies.

Hopefully you'll be able to get everything assembled sooner rather than later. :)

Make sure to call B&B before driving to Ottawa for the ferts to be sure they have everything that you need!  Also, I believe the check valve is a special order from Big Al's.