So about 3 months ago, I decided that i wanted to upgrade my I guess low tech planted tank to a high tech tank. I really wanted to take my time and do it right, (spend a few months researching, getting to know the equipment, understanding how it works, seeing a few tanks in action ect. )
Ive have gotten a few "lessons" from my neighbour who has a high tech planted tank. :) He explained how lighting, nutrients and Co2 work together. He told me about T5 lighting, and fertilizing and such.
So there are still a few things that I want under my belt before I do this. Im not really keen on going all willy-nilly buying things and having it blow up in my face.
So the main reason for this topic is to get some ideas and suggestions, because I have a few problems too deal with.
1: My parents are divorced. Although they live in the same neighbourhood, it is not practicle for me to travel back and forth every day to fertilize. I switch on fridays.
2: School. Grade 9 at Ashbury is not easy. School is my main dedication and I dont have a lot of time at night for tons of maintence. I am however completley free on weekends.
3: My parents want to help and love aquariums but there not very educated in aquarium keeping, and it just so happens that both my real parents and step parents are surgeons and they dont want to come home only to worry about giving the right dosage of ferts to the tank or changing water ect.
I know that lighting and Co2 can be all automated and thats great. Can fertilization? (I am fine with doing water changes myself every week.)
So I guess my real questions are
A- Is there a system that is pretty much automatic? That fertilizes itself and stuff on the weeks that I am not there?
B- Any tips/ suggestions that I should know before I do this?
C- Any really helpful links?
D- Dry or liquid ferts? Wich do you recomend?
E- I know that your supposed to densley plant right off the bat. Whats a good place to get large amounts of veryy different plants? (Big als is great but i meant more online so I could order lots and very diverse)
This is the Co2 kit I would get
http://www.aquariumplants.com/COMPLETE_ULTIMATE_Co2_SYSTEM_best_of_the_best_6_p/co2-a1.htm
And I really will basically spend anything for a completley automatic system. (Maybe ill try to keep it below $3000 though :-\
Any suggestions/ links to automated systems or just tips from your tanks would be great. Ill probably aim to set it up in about 4-6 weeks from now.
Adam
Hi Adam, Be warned high tech is a lot of work. But get yourself some T5HO lights, a good co2 regulator (the one in the link is a bit overkill because you don't need the pH controler etc), a descent sized co2 cylinder (5 to 10 lbs will last a long time) and go with dry ferts (much much cheaper) and you can make your own liquid ferts from that too. Oh yeah, and buy yourself a good pair of scissors, you'll need them to do lots of pruning. I'm sure the various planted tank folks will chime in as well.
Hola Adam! Just to further what Eric mentioned, it is a little more work having a high-light/high-tech set up. What sized tank do you have or are looking to get? Depending, the co2 kit you're looking at could be overkill indeed. You could get much better quality regulators with just a diffuser in your system for much cheaper - you'll have extra dough to play with when it comes to other things. A reactor is helpful for larger tanks however so all depends on how big you're going.
Dry ferts are the way to go and most of us get it from either the hydrophonics store or online. There are 2 major 'schools' of dosing for high-tech setups to my knowledge: Estimative Index (EI) or Perpetual Preservation System (PPS). Given your schedule, the former might suit you better as you dose once a week heavily ( the idea is to provide as much nutrients as possible in one shot, possibly in excess) and do a major water change once a week as well (reestablishes/resets various nutrient levels). So waterchange and dosing could occur on the same day is what i am saying.
Fertilizing can be automated with dosing pumps. As Eric mentioned, you'd have liquid ferts mixed from your powdered nutrients and you could use dosing pumps to pump that into your system automatically as well. This may not be necessary with EI dosing however.
Plants can be bought from BA's - you get best pick when they are just freshly shipped. Decent enough selection. Not too keen on ordering plants online unless they're the hardier species (moss, java fern, anubias etc.) but most plants dont do too too well with shipping usually so I am dissuaded from going that route. Usually I get trimmings from fellow hobbyists of plants I like ( this is usually how you acquire rarer species that stores dont get) or buy from stores if I see good specimens. If you dont find an online source, my recommendation is to fill it up with fastgrowing plants first. This will prevent algae from taking over. Overtime you can acquire the plants you really want and then start replacing the ones in your tank.
Great planted tank community on here so feel free to ask questions and am sure more of us will chime in!
Thanks for the quick replies! :)
QuoteWhat sized tank do you have or are looking to get? Depending, the co2 kit you're looking at could be overkill indeed. You could get much better quality regulators with just a diffuser in your system for much cheaper - you'll have extra dough to play with when it comes to other things. A reactor is helpful for larger tanks however so all depends on how big you're going.
I already have a 65 gallon comunity tank that I think will be the recipient of this upgrade ;)
Quotethe idea is to provide as much nutrients as possible in one shot, possibly in excess) and do a major water change once a week as well (reestablishes/resets various nutrient levels). So waterchange and dosing could occur on the same day is what i am saying.
ut wouldnt dosing and changing the water on the same day defeat the purpose? Wouldnt you be putting the ferts in and then essentialy taking them right back out? How would that help the plants for the remaining days of the week?
Thanks a bunch!
Quotethe one in the link is a bit overkill because you don't need the pH controler etc
Ya your probably right. Like I said before, all 4 of my parents have very demanding jobs and I need to make absoloutley sure that the tank is not gonna crash when Im not there cause they will have NO IDEA what to do :D
Although my mom could
probably pull of a water change :P
Also about the lighting, I read in a book that you can often combine different lights for a ggod spectrum for plant growing. What dose this really mean and dose it mean different types of T5HO or different companies?
Adam
I can offer an alternative suggestion as well as answer your last question in a very simple way.
Combining spectrums is referring to running two different spectrum or colored bulbs to give the plants the benefit of a wider or more focused/useful range. Ie plants dont use the green spectrum so plant specfic bulbs eliminate this part almost completely.
And I may get thrashed for suggesting this, but how about using dirt for your high light/high tech tank. It should hopefully eliminate the need for ferts for a good long time. It's working well for me anyways.
It will also eliminate the need to vacuum so less maintenance if you're not around.
Quote from: werehatwere on January 10, 2013, 08:16:24 PMut wouldnt dosing and changing the water on the same day defeat the purpose? ?
The idea is to first do a wc then add the ferts right after.
QuoteAlso about the lighting, I read in a book that you can often combine different lights for a ggod spectrum for plant growing. What dose this really mean and dose it mean different types of T5HO or different companies?
Using different wavelengths is what most planted folks use. A full spectrum bulb combined with an aqua flora type bulb will provide all the wavelengths most plants require.
QuoteThe idea is to first do a wc then add the ferts right after.
Well that makes a lot more sense. I also like the idea of a dosing pump. So it basically has a resovoire of whatever your chemical is and it pumps the appropriate amount in per day?
That would be nice. But all I saw from a quick search are $400 3 pump, LED whatsa-whoisits. Is there anything that I can just program to put said amount of ferts in per day? For like $100-150?
Quote from: werehatwere on January 10, 2013, 10:00:05 PM
Well that makes a lot more sense. I also like the idea of a dosing pump. So it basically has a resovoire of whatever your chemical is and it pumps the appropriate amount in per day?
That would be nice. But all I saw from a quick search are $400 3 pump, LED whatsa-whoisits. Is there anything that I can just program to put said amount of ferts in per day? For like $100-150?
They are expensive :) Hence a WC and then fert top-up should work great for you with your schedule and budget.
A dirt bottom tank is not advisable for one main reason, there is no way to guarantee what is in the dirt, could be oil could be cat urine, could be.... you get the point. There are too many things out there that could cause a crash, that your parents couldn't deal with, and you need to avoid. Now there are some out there that may say that you can and in their defense it has been done, but it you move one plant and disturb the soil in one spot you may allow water to access something you don't want it hitting. I would recommend using ADA aquasoil. There are a few types I prefered the Amazonia II but that's just me. There is a cycle for a month minimum with the soil so be warned. As far as controllers go the only one in that price range that comes to mind is the reef keeper lite RKL, not my favorite controller but on a budget would do the job. I controls everything, it would allow limitless fert additions, you just would need a bunch of the top off modules. It's not meant for this application, but should work. You could also try having your ferts diluted and have them drip into the tank continuously kind of like a saline bag at the hospital type deal, you would just need to adjust them to the right levels and fill them up periodically. I have never tried this method before, but it is used all the time in reef aquariums for kalkwasser. Best of luck, By the way I'm an ex-planted tank nut now turned reefer.
Keep in mind as well the OVAS Giant Auction is coming up in March.
There's usually lots of goodies up for auction to start up a tank and not to mention the wonderful door prizes.
One other note Adam, I went back and read your initial post more carefully and I must say, kudos to you for being brave enough at your age to come onto a site like this and ask questions. When I was your age I was crazy about aquariums but didn't have the resources you have today.
I just wanted to say with regards to dosing ferts that there is, in my opinon, only one method that is better and that's EI. Other methods are not as full proof as EI, because they leave room for deficiencies which can lead to algae and poor growth. Dosing on a daily basis, with a big water change at the end of the week, eliminates the need for test kits and guess work. That's why EI is, in my opinion the best method for any hobbyist, beginer or experienced. Your plants will always have what they need, and in abundance in some cases but it all gets reset at the end of the week. In a tank your size, you'll want to begin by dosing for a smaller tank, and then up it a bit to the 60-80 gal regime:
40-60 Gallon Aquariums
+/- 1/2 tsp KN03 3x a week
+/- 1/8 tsp KH2P04 3x a week
+/- 1/8 (10ml) Trace Elements 3x a week
50% weekly water change
60 – 80 Gallon Aquariums
+/- 3/4 tsp KN03 3x a week
+/- ¼ tsp KH2P04 3x a week
+/- ¼ tsp (20ml) Trace Elements 3x a week
50% weekly water change
If you don't buy a doser, you could pre-measure each day's dose to make it easy for your parents... all they have to do is empty it into your tank when they feed.
QuoteKeep in mind as well the OVAS Giant Auction is coming up in March.
Thanks! I will proably start my tank up a liitle sooner than that just to have time to iron out all the kinks. I plan to fill the tank right off the bat with fast growing and harfy plants. When the auction rolls around, ill see i fI can grab a few more exotic spiecies to replace with.
QuoteOne other note Adam, I went back and read your initial post more carefully and I must say, kudos to you for being brave enough at your age to come onto a site like this and ask questions. When I was your age I was crazy about aquariums but didn't have the resources you have today.
Hahaha thanks a lot :) My mom always told me that she wouldnt have gotten to where she is today if she had sat in class and never asked a question. And when I first asked for an aquarium when I was 6, my dad told me to not be afraid to clairfy. Actually his exact words were "Its okay to ask. Grown ups like it when young people get involved because it means that there are people out there who will continue the hobby, when there own kids stick em`in a retirment home!"
QuoteIf you don't buy a doser, you could pre-measure each day's dose to make it easy for your parents... all they have to do is empty it into your tank when they feed.
I love my parents and all, but I dont even rely on them to feed my fish. I once asked my mom to feed my fish because I was going on a trip with school and was gonna be away for longer. It turns out that she dumped the whole container into the tank, because she thought they looked "Mall nurished" :-\
Since then, Ive been using automatic feeders :P
So I did some resaerch online and was wondering if its better to a kind of DIY light fixture with the refelctive stuff or if I bought some ggod lights from big als, would that work?
Baically I want some strong lighting. Enough to grow even the most light demanding plants.
So to sum it up, can someone recomend a good bulb mix and how long each bulb should be on? Ive been reading stuff about like a 1 hour 'burst' in the middle of the day...Is this nescary?
:-\
Adam
This is what I use, but really any fixture that holds T5HO bulbs, and not T5NO bulbs, there is a difference...
http://raysaquarium.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_28&products_id=55 (http://raysaquarium.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_28&products_id=55)
And I'd recommend these two types of bulbs as a combo...
http://raysaquarium.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_2&products_id=146 (http://raysaquarium.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_2&products_id=146)
http://raysaquarium.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_2&products_id=149 (http://raysaquarium.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_2&products_id=149)
QuoteThis is what I use, but really any fixture that holds T5HO bulbs, and not T5NO bulbs, there is a difference...
http://raysaquarium.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_28&products_id=55
So could I get a fixture like that at BA's? (seems kinda risky ordering it from oflline...may be damaged in shipping :o )
QuoteAnd I'd recommend these two types of bulbs as a combo...
http://raysaquarium.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_2&products_id=146
http://raysaquarium.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_2&products_id=149
So what combonation of those 2 types of bulbs do you use, and when do you have them on? Do you do the "burst" thing with one of them?
And just out of curiosity, wouldnt that thing use a TON of electricity?
Quote from: werehatwere on January 11, 2013, 09:43:35 PM
So could I get a fixture like that at BA's? (seems kinda risky ordering it from oflline...may be damaged in shipping :o )
That website is a local sponsor of this forum, so you call him directly, or BAs also sells other fixtures that are HO fixtures. Which would work too.
QuoteSo what combonation of those 2 types of bulbs do you use, and when do you have them on? Do you do the "burst" thing with one of them?
And just out of curiosity, wouldnt that thing use a TON of electricity?
I use one of each type of bulb. As for electicity, it\s not too bad actually because any T5 fluorescent fixture is more efficient than T8s, T12s or even MH, metal hallides. Those are probably the least efficient.
QuoteThat website is a local sponsor of this forum, so you call him directly, or BAs also sells other fixtures that are HO fixtures. Which would work too.
Oh well thats handy!
Just for future reference for anyone else reading this, this site is great for understanding lighting
http://www.aquarium-lighting-guide.com/T5-HO-fluorescent
Quote40-60 Gallon Aquariums
+/- 1/2 tsp KN03 3x a week
+/- 1/8 tsp KH2P04 3x a week
+/- 1/8 (10ml) Trace Elements 3x a week
50% weekly water change
60 – 80 Gallon Aquariums
+/- 3/4 tsp KN03 3x a week
+/- ¼ tsp KH2P04 3x a week
+/- ¼ tsp (20ml) Trace Elements 3x a week
50% weekly water change
Posted on: Today at 08:29:30 AM Posted by: sas
So back to the ferts, I think i am going to go with the EI method. It seems a meathod that I can handle. So in this recipie it says 3x a week. For EI dosing, would I create the liquid fertilizer and dose with all of these at once? Any tips or tricks that you have found with this method?
Quote from: werehatwere on January 11, 2013, 10:04:20 PMSo back to the ferts, I think i am going to go with the EI method. It seems a meathod that I can handle. So in this recipie it says 3x a week. For EI dosing, would I create the liquid fertilizer and dose with all of these at once? Any tips or tricks that you have found with this method?
The EI method is a dry fert method. This is why it mentions tps (for teaspoons). You'll need some measuring spoons and just add them directly into the tank or mix them with some tank water. But don't dose KH2PO4 on the same days you dose Fe (iron) or trace mix. Rex does a real good job of explaining dry dosing on his website, and learning how to make your own liquid ferts from the dry. http://www.rexgrigg.com/dosing.htm (http://www.rexgrigg.com/dosing.htm)
QuoteThe EI method is a dry fert method. This is why it mentions tps (for teaspoons). You'll need some measuring spoons and just add them directly into the tank or mix them with some tank water. But don't dose KH2PO4 on the same days you dose Fe (iron) or trace mix. Rex does a real good job of explaining dry dosing on his website, and learning how to make your own liquid ferts from the dry. http://www.rexgrigg.com/dosing.htm
So is there any rules of thumb when dosing? I plan to follow that guide you gave me for a rough idea.
Quote from: werehatwere on January 11, 2013, 10:49:52 PMSo is there any rules of thumb when dosing? I plan to follow that guide you gave me for a rough idea.
Rule of thumb, it helps to have a schedule. For example, mondays, wednesdays and fridays I dose the KNO3 and trace together. And tuesdays, thursdays and saturdays I dose KH2P04 alone. Then do a large water change on sundays, and replenish some other things right after the WC by adding some equilibrium, Ca or Mg if needed. But this is strictly optional. Also, make sure you have plenty of co2, some like to turn on the co2 a half hour or so before the lights come on, and then have them go off a half hour before lights out to ensure the plants are getting optimal co2 diffusion in the water. Also, having a drop checker in your tank, opposite the side you diffuse co2, gives you a good idea if you have enough or if you should increase the bbs.
QuoteRule of thumb, it helps to have a schedule. For example, mondays, wednesdays and fridays I dose the KNO3 and trace together. And tuesdays, thursdays and saturdays I dose KH2P04 alone. Then do a large water change on sundays, and replenish some other things right after the WC by adding some equilibrium, Ca or Mg if needed. But this is strictly optional. Also, make sure you have plenty of co2, some like to turn on the co2 a half hour or so before the lights come on, and then have them go off a half hour before lights out to ensure the plants are getting optimal co2 diffusion in the water. Also, having a drop checker in your tank, opposite the side you diffuse co2, gives you a good idea if you have enough or if you should increase the bbs.
So first off, how do I know if I am achivieng the correct amount of ferts/light/co2?
I have a schedule worked out. The thursday before i leave for my dads (tank is at my moms and I just go to my dads from school that day) I will do the water change and add all of the ferts in one go. The following friday when I return, I will change the water and add the ferts. Then on the thursday of that week, the process starts over again.
On another note, I just wanted to thank you for helping me so much, as well as all of the others who replied. I have already learned a lot from this topic! :)
Ferts is easy, you just follow the dry dose schedule for EI, it's designed to overdose ferts intentionally so you can't go wrong. As for lighting, the fixture I showed you with 4 x T5HO 39w bulbs should be all the light you need on a 24" tall tank. And the fixture's height can be adjusted to increase or decrease intensity. Finally, I recommend a drop checker for co2. When the liquid in the drop checker is green, it means you have enough co2, if it turns blue it's not enough, and yellow means too much co2. http://www.aquainspiration.com/nproductdetail.asp?PIN=CO&PNAME=DASZ&PSIZE=CH&PTYPE=CO2 Accessories (http://www.aquainspiration.com/nproductdetail.asp?PIN=CO&PNAME=DASZ&PSIZE=CH&PTYPE=CO2%20Accessories)
And you're more than welcome. Anytime you need help don't hesitate to ask, I'm more than glad to help the next generation of planted tank folks.
QuoteFerts is easy, you just follow the dry dose schedule for EI, it's designed to overdose ferts intentionally so you can't go wrong. As for lighting, the fixture I showed you with 4 x T5HO 39w bulbs should be all the light you need on a 24" tall tank. And the fixture's height can be adjusted to increase or decrease intensity. Finally, I recommend a drop checker for co2. When the liquid in the drop checker is green, it means you have enough co2, if it turns blue it's not enough, and yellow means too much co2
Well that sounds easy enough!
So i told my mom what I wanted to do with the tank and she got all excited and started researching all of the plants she wants lol.
For as long as ive had the tank, i have been foing weekly %50 water changes and draging the buckets into my bathroom and dumping them into my bathtub. I now however, realise that this is a bad idea, because it could clog the drains. SOOOO, my step father had the brilliant idea of putting a bulkhaed in the bottom left and right corners of the tank, and connectig them with pipe, to a valve (dont remeber the name) and attaching a beefy hose to it wich i can run out my window and into the eves troff below (my room is on the 3rd floor of my house so theres an eves troff below and above me) I figured I may aswell, because the tank is just sitting empty now. I gave the fish to my cousin. Anyways, the back needs to be "re-vinyled" and the stand needs to be tightend, so i figured I may aswell do it.
So in short, there will be 2 bulkheads in the 2 back corners of the tank, with pipe connecting them to a central valve, wich will have a detachable hose, wich i can run out of my window, and into the eves troff (wich conveinetly dups all its water into the koi pond).
We will also be putting in a special tap in the wall of my bathroom, wich i will be able to connect a hose to, wich will return water to the tank after water changes. (this will just go in over the side, not through the pipes). This way, I can do large and quick water changes, making it easier on the tank inhabitants.
Whatda' ya think?
Sounds pretty good. The other option you have too is to get yourself a python no spill kit. I think they come in 10 and 20 foot extension kits, so you can do water changing from your room directly down the drain. Many aquarists use it to also fill the tank from the tap, but put dechlorinator in the tank first, then turn the tap water on and adjust the temperature.
One other thing I forgot is the substrate. Make sure you get yourself a good quality substrate, there are many out there but make sure you get one for growing plants. I've used seachem flourite red, black and onyx sand, and ADA aquasoil, they all worked well for me. Others that come to mind are eco-complete by carib sea, fluval stratum, etc.
Wow, I leave the country for a week and an AWESOME thread comes up.
First off, I'm really impressed with you Adam, I have a daughter your age and she rarely asks questions and does research before doing anything!
Secondly, metal halide is actually one of the most efficient types of lighting in terms of lumen output per watt...some lamps produce 115 lumens per watt, but they aren't designed for aquarium use. The only light source that eclipses MH is High Pressure Sodium, which is what lights our streets in Ottawa.
I'm not trying to say that Adam should go with MH lighting, if you balance light output, heat output, cost and color spectrum T5HO is hard to beat for planted aquariums. Just make sure the bulbs have the right spectrum for plant growth and have a high Colour Rendering Index, or CRI, so the plants and fish look natural.
I'm a big fan of black fluorite for substrate. My 135g cichlid iteration I'm working on now is the first tank I've built that hasn't had it in some way, shape, or form. It's relatively cheap, looks good and the plants I've kept seem to establish good root systems in it.
Lastly, as someone with holes in the bottom of their tank, I'd recommend you don't put bulkheads in for water changes. The chances for leaks are much higher (your tank is on the third floor!!) and you can accomplish water changes faster with a python, or using the outlet of your filter to push the water out. Buy the cheapest python you can get at Big Als, then go to Home Depot and buy a long roll of 5/8 clear acrylic for potable water in the length you need to get to your bathroom.
QuoteLastly, as someone with holes in the bottom of their tank, I'd recommend you don't put bulkheads in for water changes. The chances for leaks are much higher (your tank is on the third floor!!) and you can accomplish water changes faster with a python, or using the outlet of your filter to push the water out. Buy the cheapest python you can get at Big Als, then go to Home Depot and buy a long roll of 5/8 clear acrylic for potable water in the length you need to get to your bathroom.
So my step dad calls my uncle, and 20 minutes later, there both in my room trying to figure out a way to get the water from my bathroom into my tank. (Uncle is a plumber). My mom likes the idea of going fully automatic with the water changes. Unfortunatley, this is one of the many aspects of the hobby that i am not familliar with. I need to do some serious research before I let the men go after my tank with their drills ;)
Can someone post a link about automatic tanks or something? I may just use the bulkhead for water changes or like Stussi said, eliminate it all together. How dose the water get conditioned when comming through automatically?
Can a python hose fill up a tank aswell? if thats the case, ill just run it from my bathroom tank to my tank.
Quote(your tank is on the third floor!!
Ya i would need to make sure its completley leak proff because the "library" is right under my room.
Quote from: werehatwere on January 13, 2013, 03:00:11 PM
How dose the water get conditioned when comming through automatically?
That's a good question. You'll need a supply of conditioned, heated water to add in using an automated change system. Most people who do automated systems have a barrel, or tank, that has a heater, air stone for circulation and pump to get the water to the tank. Considering you do 50% changes you'll need at least 30g of storage for the water.
Quote
Can a python hose fill up a tank aswell? if thats the case, ill just run it from my bathroom tank to my tank.
Yes, the python has a valve that removes water from the tank when open, and fills the tank when closed. A good amount of water flow is needed when the valve is open to get the water siphon going, then once its running you can shut the water off. When you're ready to refill you start the water with the valve open to get the temp right, then close the valve and it pushes water into the tank. There are tons of videos on the youtube showing how it works.
Are you running a canister filter? If so, its pretty easy to setup a system that uses the outflow to drain the tank. I could do 50% water changes in 20 minutes on my old 60g tank by using an adapter to get the python hose to attach to my filter outflow. The longest part was actually refilling the tank.
Yes i have an ehime...forget the name :-\ Ya I may try that!
Oh! And forgot to ask earlier, this will be sufficent for all palnts? (Lighting wise) like glosso and hc?
QuoteOne other thing I forgot is the substrate. Make sure you get yourself a good quality substrate, there are many out there but make sure you get one for growing plants. I've used seachem flourite red, black and onyx sand, and ADA aquasoil, they all worked well for me. Others that come to mind are eco-complete by carib sea, fluval stratum, etc.
I havent really done any research on a good substrate. What would you recomend? ( I would perfer a more sandy looking substarte, if any look like that)
Quote from: werehatwere on January 13, 2013, 05:13:48 PMOh! And forgot to ask earlier, this will be sufficent for all palnts? (Lighting wise) like glosso and hc?
I havent really done any research on a good substrate. What would you recomend? ( I would perfer a more sandy looking substarte, if any look like that)
The T5HOs are definately strong enough for glosso and HC. I grow both and I have no issues, the glosso is a weed, but the HC is trickier. You may want something more granual like seachem flourite for HC, it's hard to root in sand or light soil based stuff. I recommend seachem flourite, both are good for carpet plants. Just from my personal experience.
Quotehe T5HOs are definately strong enough for glosso and HC. I grow both and I have no issues, the glosso is a weed, but the HC is trickier. You may want something more granual like seachem flourite for HC, it's hard to root in sand or light soil based stuff. I recommend seachem flourite, both are good for carpet plants. Just from my personal experience.
Oh that sounds great! Ya i plan to have most of the tank bottom covered except for a winding path down the middel (unplanted) so it dosent really matter what color the substrate is!
Just out of curiosity, where did you get all of your original hard to find spicies?
Some of the plants that my mother wants maybe difficult to find LOL :)
She says that i find them, she'll put the money down.
I wonder what a good place is...any suggestions?
ALSO
While on the subject, what do you think i should stalk the tank with? I really want some exotic livebearers, but cant find them at big als.
Quote from: werehatwere on January 13, 2013, 05:40:12 PM
Just out of curiosity, where did you get all of your original hard to find spicies?
Some of the plants that my mother wants maybe difficult to find LOL :)
She says that i find them, she'll put the money down.
I wonder what a good place is...any suggestions?
ALSO
While on the subject, what do you think i should stalk the tank with? I really want some exotic livebearers, but cant find them at big als.
Ah yes, welcome to the hobby. What you want and what you can manage to get localy are two different things. But if you're patient enough you'll find most of what you're looking for locally. The rest you can probably order online. I got my glossostigma from another member of the forum. The classifieds on this site are a good source from time to time. The HC I got from LaNiche in Gatineau, and I've seen it locally at times in different petsmarts. BAs sometimes also gets HC and glosso in, but you have to go when they first get their shipments in. Both BAs also have a really good selection of livebearers like mollies, swordtails, guppies, platys, endlers etc.
QuoteThe HC I got from LaNiche in Gatineau, and I've seen it locally at times in different petsmarts. BAs sometimes also gets HC and glosso in, but you have to go when they first get their shipments in.
Great! I'll keep my eyes open! :)
As for the fish, BA dose have quite the selction, but Im talking about specific colours and traits that would be very hard to find in any fish store...ex- double bleeding heart lyretail sword. Propably something I would have to get offline :( I am currently composing a list off all of my (and i guess my mothers now LOL :D ) favorite flora and fuana, that I hope to one day have. Ill post it soon, and it will also help to figure out if there is any major flaws in my plant stocking