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My 90g + 20g sump mixed reef

Started by mikerobart, June 24, 2009, 11:13:25 AM

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mikerobart

This thread will document the progress of my new tank. I am upgrading from a 29 gallon with no sump and relatively low complexity, to a slightly more advanced, and larger system. I would appreciate any advice along the way.

Current equipment ( thanks to everyone I have purchased from, used or new!)

80 gallon Hagen tank, predrilled for 1.5" bulkhead
90 gallon Perfecto reef ready tank
33 20 gallon 3 chamber sump/refugium with baffles
Quiet one 4400HH return pump
Black Perfecto Stand

Aquamedic Aquaspacelight 2x250w HQI + 2x24 PC Actinics
2x54W t5ho retro added to Aquamedic Aquaspace light, workhorse 5 ballast, tek 2 reflectors
Bulbs: 2x250w 20000k EVC HQI's , 2 x 24w PC Actinic, (2x250w 20000k giesemann megachromes for spares, one spare 24w pc) 1x54w UVL Super actinic t5ho 1x54W ATI Blue + t5ho

SWC Extreme 200 Skimmer (This thing is HUGE!! Fits in sump, at an angle, with about 2mm of clearance, but plenty of room above to remove the collection cup... not sure how the hell I am going to clean it though.. no way to remove skimmer when tank is in place.. is this a problem?) - same as octopus, msx

SWC 160 Cone Skimmer

Maxijet 1200 w/ sureflow mod (nice flow from this, around 2100gph)
Vortech MP40w
3x Korallia 3

300W Titanium heater w/ controller

Reefkeeper Lite

Optima Vision 210 75gpd RO/DI

Autotopoff.com double float auto top off with aqualifter pump


Current Livestock:

Pink tail trigger fish
Pair of Ocellaris clownfish
Six-line wrasse
Royal Gramma
Blue Chromis
Skunk cleaner shrimp x 4
Brittle star
Pistol Shrimp
Pink/Blue Spotted Goby MIA
Numerous blue legs, red legs, scarlet hermits
Assortment of snails



Current Coral

Yellow tip torch (clowns currently hosting.. they need something new so it won't die)
Hammer coral
xenia
pulsing xenia
Large hairy mushrooms
some zoo's
gsp  (something keeps eating it, keeps coming back!)
couple acro frags
stag frag
Chalice frag
Mushrooms

mikerobart

Plumbing (Please help  :D)

Plumbing a sump is something I am doing for the first time, so advice would be appreciated. I am trying to keep my plumbing relatively simple, and because I want to transfer my livestock this weekend, I need to set it up in a timely fashion.

I am using a very simple standpipe to my 1.5" bulkhead. I have a reducer fitting to make a sort of DIY surface skimmer. I am still looking for advice on how many "teeth" I should cut into this, what size the openings in the teeth should be, spacing etc.

After the bulkhead there will be a ball valve, and another small section of pipe, going below the water level in the sump. This feeds the skimmer chamber,which overflows to the refugium section, which overflows through to the smallest chamber, where the return pump will be.

I am considering just running spaflex back over the top of the tank from the return pump, but would like some suggestions here as well. I do not want to be drilling holes at this stage.

I know with only one downpipe and one return I am not exactly fail safe here. Hopefully this is not too foolhardy. I guess I could always run multiple water level switches to the RKL to shut off the return if the main tank started to overfill.

Please any plumbing help would be great, keeping in mind I
don't plan on any more holes at this time.

Hookup

Your description sounds right on.  Agreed your not very fail safe, but it is what it is.. (my current setup is the same).

It sounds like you do not have an overflow setup... and I'm not sure where your bulkhead is (bottom or side)...

Number of "teeth" is a dark-art... be prepared to guess and possibly change... you're goal is to get more "true surface" water (the top 1/8th inch of water or so) into your sump... That'll be hard with the design your proposing... but be aware, that's your goal... Teeth should be small enuf that critters cannot easily get thru (snails) and big enuf to allow the most water thru, thus allowing you to skim more surface water...

So, how exactly is your tank / plumbing setup?

mikerobart

Bottom drilled for 1.5" bulkhead (back left ). Standpipe straight up to the diy surface skimmer I mentioned, ball valve after the bulkhead. Is it ok to drain STRAIGHT down into the sump?  While the gravity drainage to the sump will be through the bulkhead, I'd like to just go with an over the top return.


mikerobart

Picked up another maxi-jet, may or may not get the sure-flow mod for this one. I like the idea of having at least one of my powerheads running on the RKL at some point, get some more chaotic flow going. I don't think you can run a sure-flow modded maxi on a wavemaker or am I wrong?

Rattling each start up would also be unnaceptable to me- the tank will be in the bedroom.

The sureflow modded maxi is claimed to do about 2100 gph, and my return will be doing something like 500-900, all depending on how fast I am draining, if I can drain at the max flowrate of the quiet one then I will be using all 900 some gph.

Is two sureflow mods too much for my lps ? I know it will depend on placement as well. Should definitely be good enough flow to make sps quite happy.

tskinner

I would think the 2 sureflow mods plus the return would be alittle much for lps.  You'll pushing around 62X turnover rate in your display if you max out your quite one pump.  The SPS will definiately love it but unsure about the lps side.

salvini55

Quote from: mikerobart on June 25, 2009, 12:56:03 PM
I don't think you can run a sure-flow modded maxi on a wavemaker or am I wrong?

The maxi jet's impeller changes direction everytime it cycles (turns off then on) This is fine for certain mods, but not the sureflow which implements a propeller.  when it "cycles", with a sure flow mod, the propeller will be sucking water in kinda like a boat motor going in reverse. Hope this helps.

mikerobart

Thank you both for your advice. I think I will not mod the 2nd maxi 1200 for now. If I ever do, it will mod in such a way that the motor reversal will not be an issue (simply drilling out its intake area, cutting down output for more dispersal.)

Even the extra 300 gph on a wavemaker might be enough to get some random flow patterns.

mikerobart

So, I have a few plumbing questions!

1. I have a valve immediately after my return pump to throttle it's output, is there any rule about putting it so close to the pump ? I was a little worried about the the turbulence it would create so close to the impeller, if the pump may not be designed for it, but think it will be ok, can someone weigh in here please.

2. I have a barb fitting and clamp to connect some spaflex to the return. Not worried about leaks on this end because it's sitting in the sump of course, but is the fitting ok in the water? It's a metal clamp that hold the flex tube tight the the barb fitting. I think steel or stainless steel so hopefully no copper.

3. What's the best way to get this flex pipe over the side of the tank and tightly in place so it doesn't fall out and pump water all over my floor?!? Don't want to use any types of fittings that would leak easily. Originally I was just thinking of sort of a U shape made of pvc that would hang over the side but I don't know if I can trust the fittings to attach the flex to this, and it would be outside the tank; I would worry about leaks.  I don't want any new holes, so the return has to be an over the top style. A home depot shopping list would be great! Something simple to rig up would be great.

mikerobart

Another quick question  :D.  My SWC extreme 200 arrived (same as reef octopus). It is HUGE! Fits in the sump.. barely. Room above to remove cup (plenty), but enough to remove the skimmer itself. Is this a problem? I actually had to drop the skimmer in through the top of the stand (same way I dropped in the sump.) I think I can reach in to clean but it will be tight!

Hookup

Quote from: mikerobart on June 29, 2009, 09:32:36 AM
So, I have a few plumbing questions!

1. I have a valve immediately after my return pump to throttle it's output, is there any rule about putting it so close to the pump ? I was a little worried about the the turbulence it would create so close to the impeller, if the pump may not be designed for it, but think it will be ok, can someone weigh in here please.

This is a common practice.  Assuming you used a true-union ball valve you can then take the pump out of the system to service it by closing the ball valves on the input side and output side to the pump.. (or just have a union on the input side... either way).

Do not worry, it's all good.


Quote from: mikerobart on June 29, 2009, 09:32:36 AM
2. I have a barb fitting and clamp to connect some spaflex to the return. Not worried about leaks on this end because it's sitting in the sump of course, but is the fitting ok in the water? It's a metal clamp that hold the flex tube tight the the barb fitting. I think steel or stainless steel so hopefully no copper.

No idea... why'd ya do that???  PVC glue is cheap...


Quote from: mikerobart on June 29, 2009, 09:32:36 AM
3. What's the best way to get this flex pipe over the side of the tank and tightly in place so it doesn't fall out and pump water all over my floor?!? Don't want to use any types of fittings that would leak easily. Originally I was just thinking of sort of a U shape made of pvc that would hang over the side but I don't know if I can trust the fittings to attach the flex to this, and it would be outside the tank; I would worry about leaks.  I don't want any new holes, so the return has to be an over the top style. A home depot shopping list would be great! Something simple to rig up would be great.

You have the idea... just build a hard-pipe over-the rim style return line and glue the SPA FLEX to it.  There are several awesome expensive ways to go, but basically some PVC work should get you there without problem.

PVC glues onto SPA flex just fine... clean the surfaces well, then use a good amount of glue (not a crazy amount), then let it sit for a few hours before using it... SPA flex to hard PVC takes more time to harden than PVC to PVC... but I've got those connections all over my system and no leaks.. it's a proven method.  (I've let it dry for 20min then put it into the system with no issues, but it's not recommended... just saying... it's been done).




mikerobart

Thanks a lot hookup. I think with your tips I can manage from here. One thing though, you mentioned a valve on the input side of the return pump... I was thinking I could just sit it in the return section of my sump and only needed a valve on the output side to regulate flow if it is too much for my drain etc.

Hookup

Yeah, the valve on the input side isn't really acting as a valve, but as a connection point that you can do/undo... (I used valves cause that's what I had... True-Union-Ball-Valves vs True-Unions)

At some point you'll want to service your pump, or even repair/replace it... having union's or union valves allows you to disconnect the pump without having to do a tonne of plumbing... if you have already done the plumbing then do not add these now... you can do it when/if you service the pump...

mikerobart

I didn't realize I needed anything on the suction side of the pump. It just sits in the return section of my sump and draws water, pumps it up?

Is this more necessary if you have bypasses etc to regulate flow through the refugium and skimmer sections?

I was thinking of a very simple arrangement: Standpipe feeds skimmer section, has a ball valve on downpipe. Skimmer area overflows through baffles to refugium. Refugium overflows to return pump area. Return pump sits in this area, only piping is on discharge side, a ball valve, then some spaflex up to a U shaped pipe that will get the water over the back of the tank.

Might look to pick up one of those U shaped over the back fittings that also allow you more control to direct the flow from the return. Anyone know where I could pick one up in ottawa?

salvini55

what you want to do is fine, i think Tim is talking about external return pumps, having a ball valve on the intake would allow you to service the pump without getting water allover the floor. If you put a ball valve on the intake side of the pump you create back pressure and can burn out the pump. What your saying is perfect, you dont even need the ball valve(s) on the overflow pipes unless it is for service use. HTH

Kev

mikerobart

Thanks Kev

I will be doing the ball valve on the down pipe for service reasons as you say, and yes it is an internal pump.

In other news, I am working on a DIY light hanger for my light fixture, following tskinner's example. I will post pics in the coming week or so, just way too busy now finishing moving in to new apartment!

Hookup

Quote from: salvini55 on June 30, 2009, 03:27:49 PM
what you want to do is fine, i think Tim is talking about external return pumps, having a ball valve on the intake would allow you to service the pump without getting water allover the floor. If you put a ball valve on the intake side of the pump you create back pressure and can burn out the pump. What your saying is perfect, you dont even need the ball valve(s) on the overflow pipes unless it is for service use. HTH

Kev

Yeah, what he said... LOL...

mikerobart

So, I have finally moved into my new apartment. My 29g is set up and fish look very happy, all except one blue chromis who was injured in a rock accident  :o. I feel bad, but at least it was not one of my clowns.  ;D.

He died shortly after the rock incident, but provided a very tasty meal for the brittle star, as well as the clean up crew, who devoured his remains.

As soon as I had the 29g set up, I realized my salinity had gone too high during the move.. some evap and stirring things up. I was forced to make water right away, but realized a little late that the water pressure in my apartment is only 32psi!

This is from the laundry sink in the basement. I might be in the market for a booster pump, unless the pressure at the outdoor faucet is much better. Despite this, I needed water fast,  so I rearranged the hoses on my RO/DI to only pass through three stages, and not the time-limiting RO stage. Fish seem very happy so far, so I am hoping the carbon and de-ionizing resin helped enough that things will be ok for the 5g or so that made in this way.

@32psi, RO is reallllllllyyyyy sloooooowww ! I have to ask Ray about a booster pump... anyone have experience with these?  I haven't checked yet, but would water pressure be better at the outside faucet likely?

I can still make water @32, but, considering I am paying all inclusive, and my landlord is stuck with my water bill.... I don't want him to freak out too much when he see's it. Hydro is included but I offered to pay for the extra demand caused by my lighting etc when I set up the larger tank. 


Hookup

Good on you, IMO, for offering to off-set the costs, even if your landlord didnt take you up on it, it's nice to see you were thinking...

Booster pumps are pretty simple devices, you should have no issues with them.  To my knowledge you can get a good one from HD or RONA or LOWES or CanadianTire, etc... and install it in a few min...

Water outside could be at a completely different PSI depending on the quality of plumbing done... only one way to find out... And given winter... i'm guessing it's only a temporary fix for you...


mikerobart

Good point about winter.. was not thinking about that. Will probably pick up a booster tonight. Thanks

Hookup

Quote from: mikerobart on July 02, 2009, 01:56:23 PM
Good point about winter.. was not thinking about that. Will probably pick up a booster tonight. Thanks

I also do not think about winter.. cause it sucks...   

Do some photos of your install of that pump... don't think i've seen one before...

salvini55

What do you plan on getting now that your selling you tank?

mikerobart

I have purchased a 90g reef ready perfecto, should arrive in 2 weeks or so. The stand I bought was for a 90, and the 80 looked a little weird on it. The 90 rr perfecto also comes with a plumbing kit which will save me a few headaches I think.

*Hopefully* I will post pics tonight of some equipment and my diy light bar... which is now basically complete.

mikerobart

Quick pic that almost shows the light bar  :) . I took the pic for someone who was interested in the 80g. 90g coming in a little while hopefully. The aquamedic light and stand will remain. Oh, and that's my skimmer collection cup in there.  ;D


mikerobart

My 90g reef ready perfecto with corner overflow will be delivered Sunday evening! :). Then things should start to get more underway. I expect the plumbing to be quick and painless.. the perfecto comes with everything from the bottom of the tank up, and I am going for a very simple system here.

Once plumbing is done, will take awhile to fill'er up I think, I don't want to run the RO/DI when I am not around/ awake to keep an eye on things.

Just ordered an auto-top off system from www.autotopoff.com. It is the dual-float system, with a snail guard and aqualifter pump.

I bought a chair from Canadian Tire the other day which has under the seat storage. It's sort of a fake/bonded leather, they went discontinued I think, so picked it up for $49.99 regular $ 179.99  :D (Although probably worth much closer to the former .)

Anyways, my plan is to use the chair beside the tank, and put an ATO  reservoir in the storage area under the chair. I will drill / cut out a small hole to run 1/4" OD tube from the aqualifter to the sump, which will be very close to the chair. I think I can fit at least a 10g reservoir in the chair with room to spare for other fish goodies !

An ATO was a priority, as I want to make sure I get my money's worth out of the wicked skimmer and keep it dialed in all the time.

The ATO reservoir in a chair / ottoman was an idea I saw on reefcentral.. pretty cool if you have to keep it in same room, don't want an unsightly bucket or tote beside the tank, and no room in the stand (who has room for an ato res under the stand ?!? ).

I have heard good things about the autotopoff.com system, I know I coulda diy'd for cheaper but at this point I just want to get on with it!  Anyone have experience with the ato unit?


mikerobart

Here are my stocking thoughts once I have everything set up.

To start, the clowns from my 29g, sixline wrasse, skunk cleaner shrimp, and rest of cuc. Then ... if this doesn't seem too crazy, a yellow tang and regal tang, which I would buy small and add at the same time. I understand if they got bigger they would need a larger tank.

When I have the refugium producing amphipods successfully, I do want a mandarin.. they are such awesome fish.

Other fish I am considering are a Bangai Cardinal and one or two bartlets anthias. Maybe one or two more skunk cleaners.. so much personality... or a pistol / goby combo.

I want some sort of large carpet anemone perhaps for my clowns, or something else they will enjoy and not kill. A good assortment of LPS. Some sps in the top half of the tank but with some room to grow so not right at the top. One crocea clam.

I think I will do a SSB in the display... would a DSB in the refug be advised? It's not a large chamber for the refug so not sure if it would make much difference.

I think water quality should not be a problem... the skimmer is way more than I need, so a heavy bioload should be fine. I know manufacturer claims are sometimes optimistic, but they say something like 175g heavily stocked would be manageable.  Add in a good amount of chaeto and top quality RO/DI water and I should be in good shape.. Maybe 5g water changes biweekly.

Anyways, please share your thoughts and advice on anything and everything!


mikerobart

Tank is filling with RO/DI as I write this. Unit it rated at 75 gpd but I am getting 70 gpd at the moment. I will take it. Appears to be level, and bulkhead seals seem to holding, although not much water in the tank yet! Hopefully some pics will generate more responses to my thread!

The first drops of water in the tank:


SWC Extreme 200 ( looks bigger in person!)


Just because I have always been Jealous of these collection cup shots, and it's got a nice beefy one. Rye lovers will approve of my size comparison.


The overflow and return go through bulkheads, which are fitting with 1" nipples. The smooth pipe part of the nipple is slip fitting inside the bulkhead and glued, while the threaded part screws into 1" tru union ball valves. Just barely fits. I need to get a few more pieces to run flex to my sump, but it will be another few days until the tank is full enough anyways. Nice thing about the true unions is I can take them apart, and work on the under sump plumbing without having the remove the whole valve (can keep it sealed off.)


My absolutely ghetto looking RO/DI arrangement. I'm current living in a basement apartment.. very nice actually but this is in the landlords laundry area... slop sink working for me well enough though. Can't really do a permanent install here. Booster pump is not actually running at the moment and I am happy with the pressure.








mikerobart

I really wish this tank didn't have a center brace, especially since my 2x24 pc actinics are in the center of the light. Compared to the 2x250w hqi's, I think they make no noticable impact but will be good for dawn / dusk. Might even have them go off when the daylights come on.

I am definitely happy with the brightness! When I have the light on, it overpowers every light in the room  ;D. Can flick the ceiling lights / floor lamps on and off and hardly notice a difference in the room.




salvini55

looking good, im jelouse of your skimmer...  :P  What do you plan on keeping in the tank?

mikerobart

Check a few posts up for my thoughts. I am going to take it slow and steady, but I would like to get one, or two ( :o ) tangs, if the tang police don't come at me too hard for that idea.

In terms of corals, primarily lps with a smattering of sps. Hopefully an anemone for the clowns to host in... they are quickly killing their torch coral!

Dave and Diane


JD

Curious, what booster pump do you have there? Where from and how much?
I am considering something similar. What kind of pressure do you get?
I have a 75 gpd and am only getting around 50 with pressure at 45-65 psi(on a well).

JD

Funny about the "tang police". With a regal and a kole in a 24G Aquapod, no one has yelled at me yet! Mind you, once they grow a little I will move them to a different tank.

JD

What did you end up doing on your overflows? I tried notching mine awhile back but found them way too noisy.

mikerobart

If they are small I don't see the issue, like you say. If I had two that outgrew my tank I would do the same. That being said, tell people at reef central you've got two tangs in a 24g and the tang police will be all over you .  :D

mikerobart

Quote from: JD on July 25, 2009, 05:55:11 PM
What did you end up doing on your overflows? I tried notching mine awhile back but found them way too noisy.

You mean on the reef ready perfecto tank? Already has an overflow "grate" sort of.. I have not done anything to it.. and tank is still only about 35% full!

JD

It was in this post you spoke about cutting teeth and spacing. I think this is the 80g.

Quote from: mikerobart on June 24, 2009, 12:58:38 PM
Plumbing (Please help  :D)

Plumbing a sump is something I am doing for the first time, so advice would be appreciated. I am trying to keep my plumbing relatively simple, and because I want to transfer my livestock this weekend, I need to set it up in a timely fashion.

I am using a very simple standpipe to my 1.5" bulkhead. I have a reducer fitting to make a sort of DIY surface skimmer. I am still looking for advice on how many "teeth" I should cut into this, what size the openings in the teeth should be, spacing etc.

After the bulkhead there will be a ball valve, and another small section of pipe, going below the water level in the sump. This feeds the skimmer chamber,which overflows to the refugium section, which overflows through to the smallest chamber, where the return pump will be.

I am considering just running spaflex back over the top of the tank from the return pump, but would like some suggestions here as well. I do not want to be drilling holes at this stage.

I know with only one downpipe and one return I am not exactly fail safe here. Hopefully this is not too foolhardy. I guess I could always run multiple water level switches to the RKL to shut off the return if the main tank started to overfill.

Please any plumbing help would be great, keeping in mind I
don't plan on any more holes at this time.


mikerobart

The 80g was aborted due to it not fitting my stand quite right. I had a 3" to 1.5" reducer that I was going to cut teeth into but never went ahead with it. Nice to not have to worry about it though!

mikerobart

So, yesterday afternoon I noticed some wetness on my bulkheads under the tank. Not a drip drip drip, but they had a small amount of water on them. Put on some gloves and hand tightened as tight as I could at the awkward under tank angle.

No wetness this morning.

Any advice on whether I should do another 1/4 turn with a wrench, or even silicone the bulkhead where it meets the glass before tightening the nut? I have heard varying opinions and want to get it right the first time. I am going to assume that when I finally finish the under tank plumbing there will be a bit of stress on the seal as I play with the ball valves a fair bit.

I picked up some more pvc bits the other day, all that's left is some vinyl hose. I will be using 1" hose on overflow and return. Stainlees steel hose clamps where the hose is out of water, and if I need an underwate connection, plastic hose clamps or zip ties. Hopefully it all works out with no leaks

Hookup

I have always used a wrench (lock jaws) to tighten mine up... but they really are not much tighter than you'd get doing it by hand...

if it aint broke, don't fix it.

mikerobart

Thanks hookup, maybe just an 1/8-1/4 more then with lock jaws. I still might silicone it for extra peace of mine, and I assume when I need to break the tank down in the future the silicone can be scratched off fairly easily to get the bulkhead out.

groupie02

I've never had one leak by hand tightening them then using lock jaws to do another 1/4 turn.  No need for silicone on the bulkhead.

mikerobart


JD

Bulkheads...they can be a pain. I have had several leaks. On 1/2" and 5/8" glass I just grabbed my extra large channel locks and tightened another 1/4 turn. On 3/8" glass I gave it another 1/8" turn. On these ones the leak stopped with no issues. On 3/16" glass I tightened another 1/8" and cracked the glass...grrrrrrrr!!!!
I have tried putting a smear of silicone between the gasket and the glass. This method has ALWAYS leaked. When I took it apart the silicone was still goopy. I guess the lack of air prevents curing.
I now, regardless of glass thickness, put the bulkhead in hand tight plus another 1/4 turn. I put silicone around the sealing areas inside and out. Since then I have not had a leaker.
On a tank that was running I have used plumbers GooP on the outside of a slow leak and was able to stop the leak. Unfortunately this stuff will not clean off if you want to disassemble the bulkhead later.

mikerobart

Ok... removed the bulkheads, made sure the ribbed part of the seal was facing the glass, and tightened as tight as possible by hand, don't have the lockjaws or anything that will fit. I siliconed the under tank side just before finishing tightening, and siliconed the top side as well but only around the edge of the bulkhead, after it had already been tightened.

Hopefully this will work! At least if it leaks, I could always silicone more on the inside area of the tank. i really don't want to take any chances here!

I thought I'd have the plumbing finished tonight, but looks like I have one incorrectly sized barb fitting, so it will have to wait until after work tomorrow. I am also questioning whether this 1" clear braided pvc hose will make the two turns from the return pump over to the bulkhead.

Even my simple simple plumbing setup is a pain!


jimskoi

If the bottom of the tank and the rubber is dry and clean.It should not leak.Turn it as tight as you can with your hand and then 1/4" with a wrench.Silicone is not needed.
If you put the silicone on the underneath,it will not prevent a leak.The water side is where you want to put it(if using it).

mikerobart

Thanks for the replies guys. The bulkheads are in and so far not leaking. The silicone inside may be doing nothing but at least if there was going to be a problem, the silicone on the outside should take care of it.

Watching very carefully for water and all seems well. I did find a way to finish up my plumbing once I realized I can glue the braided pvc hose direct to the schedule 40 fittings. I will post pics in a minute... no leaks so far, but I want to run some things past you guys

mikerobart

Ok here is the VERY basic plumbing setup. One drain, one return. Both are 1" ID braided pvc hose. The drain uses a barb and hose clamp, the return is glued to part of the true union, and is barbed / siliconed / zip tied at the return pump.

There are true unions at both bulkheads, and another ball valve on the return pump itself. I really wanted to be able to reduce the flow on the return pipe and play it safe. At around 900gph, when I can only drain maybe 600 gph (if that) I need to really dial it down, and also consider if a snail or something else blocked my return  ...[ should I get a strainer / prefilter on standpipe .. kit didn't come with one ] .

An area of concern for me is the fact that my hose had to be looped outside the tank in order to make the curve it needs to get from return to the bulkhead.. you'll see in the pics. If it doesn't leak fine .. but if it does I would much rather it leak into the sump as the downpipe probably would. Please let me know what you think / if you see any major problems.

No leaks as of yet.. potentially a drop from one of the tru unions might need to tighten it up a little.












salvini55

lookin good. How hight is that middle baffle from the bottom of the sump?

mikerobart

Too freakin high! Probably 12" ish. I have the skimmer sitting on a tupperware container with holes cut out of the bottom to stop the water from stagnating completely. I may build a little skimmer stand out of eggcrate and pvc eventually. It is so tight working under the stand! This skimmer is such a beast.

Everything is currently running... it seems the overflow can keep up with my return without throttling but it's louder than I would like.

Skimmer pump was also very loud initially.. it is quieted down now... but gets intermittently louder and quieter. Hopefully it settles in soon. Should be nothing for it to skim now (just water and salt) but there is already some film in the skimmer body! I guess dust etc.

I installed a very simple fuge light. I got a spring loaded threaded socket at home depot, and a 23w fluorescent flood light with internal mirror that is supposed to have an output equivalent to an 85w incandescent. The spectrum looks pretty yellow. According to melevsreef, he tried two similiar bulbs, one at 2100k, one at 5000k or so, and the 5000k  (whiter) bulb actually grew chaeto much better.

I am planning on doing chaeto in the fuge, no dsb as I don't think it's worth it with a small footprint.

Any reccomendations on bare bottom or ssb in the fuge? I guess a bit of LR rubble in there to help with pods. Main purpose will be for pods, nutrient export, and I guess some macro for tangs ? Do tangs even eat chaeto? I have heard they will enjoy some types of macro. Might be cool to grow them some food.

Might get the sand in tonight to give some time for it to clear out. Planning on adding the rock tomorrow  (100lb from Ray) . Clean up crew over the weekend ( rock should be cured.) And maybe even a fish or two. This rock has been curing for quite awhile so I don't expect a cycle. Considering the water volume, and cured rock, I think there will be no problem adding a few small fish almost immediately. Also, adding my VERY healthy rock from my 29g should more than deal with any ammonia.

I am very pleased at the moment.. no leaks. Still trying to unload my 80g though, anyone who wants it can take it.. sitting in the hallway upstairs. Make me an offer (can't bump my classified ad.) More pictures to come soon! Responses are appreciated... we need to get more OVAS members commenting in general I think.. sometimes it goes an entire day without a comment on ANY threads in SW discussion! I know it's not reef central but...

Hookup

Sounds like you are on your way and running.  I just read up on your bulk-head questions and looks like in the end you nailed it down just fine.

I would put a few small (half size of your fist) pieces of LR into the fuge.  I've seen lots of them with sand and rubble, but honestly, cheato is a magnet for "crap" to get stuck and filter out... my fuge has to be vacumed out of detrius every month...  I have a slower moving sump (600gph or so) thus the slow-flow over a large (40gallon) fuge full of cheato causes any suspended materials that might sneak thru to fall out into that tank bottom.  If there was sand in there I wouldn't be able to vacume out that junk during water changes.  I just have a hand full of rocks that are too heavy to get sucked up in my vacume hose but small enough to easily move around in the fuge.

If you get into vodka dosing, amino acids, or similar systems you will likely dump the fuge.  Mine is almost the exact same size as it was when I got it... the ultralith system (which I owe ppl a write up on) draws all of the nutrients out before the cheato can use it...

A photo or 10 would be cool btw... no pressure, just saying....  ;) ;) :) :)

sniggir

Lookin good so far.... 2 tangs should be fine just resurch as to the species as some such as yellow tangs are more suited for tanks your size... other's like the regal or unicorn are best suited for far larger system's.... lol not the tang police but like to try and help ppl make the best choice for there tanks and for the fish....lol


Love the set up btw

pat
90 gallon/ 90 gallon sump all male show tank, 75g Accie, 75g masoni reef alonacara, yellow lab and trio of flame backs, 75 gal tawain reef, 75 gal bi500, red shoulder, blue regal,
40 gal breeder  F1 electric blue frierei, 25 gal sunshine peacock males awaiting females, 20 gallon trio albino pleco, 65gal neolamprongus Brachardi pulcher 2 30g fry grow out, 20g hatchery with 4 batches of eggs currently
Starting on a fish wall for breeding more coming soon!

mikerobart

Thanks for the tips...

I put a bit of sand in to let things start settling out but will need another bag soon (only added 40lb.)  I decided against washing the sand (instructions said it was fine , but may take longer to settle out of course.)

Hookup I also have a slower moving sump... probably about 600 gph or even less. The drain can just barely keep up with the return pump valve fully open, and I don't want to be anywhere near that tipping point where I can overflow the display / pump out the sump if the drain became partially clogged, so I dialed it back quite a bit. It also seems much quieter in terms of drainage with the pump turned down.

The noisiest thing now I think is the anti-siphon hole just before the return pump standpipe is attached to the loc-line current directors. Water level in the overflow area is slightly less than the rest of the display so there is a splashing sound here.

The skimmer has quieted down.. still reading up on adjustment and where to have the foam head break. I have it sitting in the correct water depth though, about 8.5" .

I agree perhaps no sand in the fuge, just LR and chaeto. Would that negatively impact pod population ?

It may be a pipe dream... but being able to have a mandarin at some point would be amazing.. of course down the road, and of course he would be going to a new home if the pods couldn't keep up / I couldn't get it to eat prepared food and started to lose weight.

The ultra-lith system does sound interesting but I am hoping to keep it simple for now and see how this all works out. If I can keep my corals and critters happy and nutrients down with this arrangement, I will be pleased.

Thanks Sniggir for the advice on the Tangs, I will definitely give it a lot of thought before putting in a regal as well as yellow.

One question for you guys... I am not running any filter socks right now, and crazy scum is building up against the middle baffle just after the fuge (the highest baffle in the sump.) Should I just slap some filter socks on the skimmer output and drain output ? The drain output is currently near the bottom of the skimmer section of the sump, and the skimmer output is partially submerged, directing it's flow over the skimmer section baffle into the refugium


redbelly

Personally I do prefer to run filter socks but they require changing every 2-3 days.
If you are not willing to change a filter sock every 2-3 days then don't bother.
I have several filter socks that I keep in rotation, then once a week clean them.

Even in a bare bottom system, with minimal nutrient importation, the amount of detritus that filter socks pull out is crazy!

mikerobart

Thanks Pat, would you say a filter sock on both the overflow output and the skimmer output ? Right now I have no filter socks or intake strainers of any kind in the system.

In other news, just picked up some more sand and some BEAUTIFUL Indo from Ray. Starting with about 84lbs and will move on up from there once I figure out how the 'scaping is going to work out.


groupie02

Quote from: mikerobart on July 31, 2009, 12:54:50 PM
It may be a pipe dream... but being able to have a mandarin at some point would be amazing.. of course down the road, and of course he would be going to a new home if the pods couldn't keep up / I couldn't get it to eat prepared food and started to lose weight.

If you have a fuge, you should eventually get tons of pods. You don't need any sand in your sump to make them happy.  My 2 sumps have a bit of cheato and that's it.  I have tons of pods in both sumps and display tanks.


redbelly

Well if you run a filter sock on the overflow 24-7, there really will not be many solid particles coming out of your skimmer at any point so I would stick to just the overflows.


mikerobart

So as per the advice here I will have no sand in fuge only some LR rubble and chaeto, and I will run a filter sock on the overflow. Right now my overflow pipe output near the bottom of the first chamber of the sump (skimmer chamber.)

Should this be so deep underwater if I am going to use a sock? I am not sure what the extra noise would be like if it emptied above the water level in the sump... the tank is literally 5 ft from my head when I am sleeping.. should be very nice to watch when I'm falling asleep.. and a nice trickle of water is fine but sloshing and loud noise is a no go. So far I am very pleased with the volume level.

salvini55

I wanna see that live rock!!!!!  :o Man i should get a filter sock to karate chop the bubbles   :D >:(

mikerobart

#59
There were some requests for pictures... as you can see my skimmer pulled some skimmate... actually was much darker but then I adjusted too wet and flooded it a bit :D. Only LR in the tank right now but it got the skimmer foaming up nicely when I added the rock.. probably a little bit of die off. This rock is mega sexy though. You know you can always count on Ray for great deals on great rock.

Anyways, I still need GFI's.. I don't want to put change the outlet so will probably look at those power cord gfi's ... crappy tire maybe? Nice mess of power cables now.. I want to get myself a controller to centrallize things.. probably one of the next items. You can see the ATO unit from autotopoff.com. I want to put a reservoir in a chair I have (has storage underneath the seat... keep that hidden. Got the ATO with the double float switch (because I am paranoid) and the aqualifter pump. One pic I took from the bed to give you an idea of how this thing dominates my bedroom  ;D. Safe to say my bedroom is wayyyyyyyyy cooler than my roommates  8).

I might have a few microbubbles... seems ok but will keep an eye on it. Also finally got my sure-flow modded mj1200 to quiet down.. damn this thing makes the water move!. Ok enjoy the pics!


















mikerobart


mikerobart

Alright looks like I am getting some die off.. as to be expected as some of this rock was covered in macro etc.. some of which will probably not make it. 

Ammonia ~0.3 ppm (Salifert)
Nitrate ~ 30 ppm (Salifert)

Some very nice dry foam coming from the skimmer now  :).  May add a little sand from my 29g to seed the new sandbed. Might add a little of the rock from that tank as well.. but probably best to hold off with trates so high  and wait it out I think.

Vincenzo.

within a few days that skimmer will annihilate all your problems. if i was you i would not bother w/ seeding and rock transfer.

mikerobart

In skimmer we trust  :). Vince, since I was planning on breaking down the other tank and transferring (at minimum) the rock and livestock, when do you think an appropriate time to move a bit of rock would be ?

I suppose the sand may not be necessary, but I figure a cup or two wouldn't hurt to kick start a good bacteria population ? The sand I purchased doesn't have an existing bacteria population, although I don't really buy the claims of manufacturers who sell "live" sand anyways. If it's been sitting on a shelf in a LFS for 2 months in an airtight bag, yeah right it's live  !

mikerobart

Just emptied the collection cup. MMmmmmmhhmm the sweet sweet smell of H2S  (Hydrogen Sulfide). I only ever had a crappy biocube skimmer on my 29g, so this was a new and exciting experience for me.


Rybren

The only local place I found with GFCI embedded extention cords was Rona.  The Crappy Tires and HDs that I searched didn't have any.

BTW, the tank is looking good.
120G Reef

mikerobart

Thanks for the compliment, and for saving me a wasted trip to CT Rybren. Rona it is!

Vincenzo.

within days you could transfer rock, its really just up to you.

salvini55

I also wanted an external GFI and could not find one at CT or home depo so i caved and hardwired one, no big deal pretty easy.

mikerobart

Plan to get some chaeto and clean up crew today or tomorrow. Ammonia is way down, undetectable by my eye anyways. Nitrates are still not 0 but are falling rapidly. I think the fact that so much of the rock is already cured is really helping.. not to mention the brute skimming power I am applying  8).

mikerobart

I got the chaeto last night, and there is some caulerpa mixed in. I know some people have concerns about caulerpa spores spreading to the display etc but with a tang to eat what grows I think I will not have a problem.

Also got a few trochus and an emerald crab... they seem to be doing great, in addition to the red leg hermits that were already transferred from my 29g.

I also transferred most of the rock from the smaller tank... as well as a single blue chromis. Everything seems to be doing well.  There was an interesting situation where my six-line wrasse accidentally was moved over with NO acclimation... he hid in a piece of LR and was plopped from one tank right into the other. He seems to be as happy as ever cruising the rock in his new home.

The clowns will be moving in soon as long as parameters are good and the other fish are still happy. I have my eye on an RBTA for them but need to do some more reading / give it more though make sure it will be compatible with the other plans I have for the tank.

Hookup


mikerobart

No photos in my most recent post... will have to wait until this evening!  :)

Hookup

Yeah, i know.. which was kind of my point... WERE ARE THE FOTOS MANG!

LOL


mikerobart

ok ok I will put a rush on it! Updates this evening. My 'scaping is not what it should be... and needs work, but I will update anyways!  :D

mikerobart

As promised. They are nothing special.. just a crappy point and shoot cam! Wait till I save up for a nikon D90 and get some more interesting stuff in here and I'll be shooting HD macro vids all day long...  ;D. Ok.. maybe go cheaper with the camera and spend the difference on coral ? ::)






Vincenzo.

ya spend it on coral instead.

nice that skimmer is bad ass. gotta love that frothy smell in the mornin'. and fyi im feeling the rock setup. looking good

Hookup

Nice... I agree, I do like the rock work...   I like the island look also, which you might try (or have already tried), i.e. break your "reef" into two parts, a left side and a right side with sand in between... 2/3rd's of the rock on one side and 1/3rd on the other to make it look pleasing... but that's me...


mikerobart

Thanks guys. Skimmer could be set drier I think... which I may try. I want to see this black oil I have seen pictures of! So far I am just running the stock pinwheel which apparently pulls about 30-32 scfm of air. It came with a meshwheel as welll.. which has been known to have pump-start issues but I will try after a few weeks once I have a good reference point with the pinwheel. A good mesh job with this pump can apparently pull 40-50 scfm. I don't pretend to be a skimmer expert but that seems like a substantial improvement so worth trying at a later date.

I think buying a good portion of rock cured and having rock in my other tank that was more mature has basically eliminated much of a cycle. I had an ammonia spike that only lasted about 3 days. Nitrates are still not zero but going down and it's not like I am loaded with sps... fish and current coral does not seem to mind.

Yeah, my current rock work is growing on me.. but the islands is what I was originally going for, that or sort of a slope like I originally had. I may try to do something similiar to what you have suggested hookup.

I have revised my stocking plans. I do not plan on any anthias, nor two tangs... but am putting a lot of thought into the most reef-safe of the trigger family... the blue throat! What a cool looking fish.. and they seem very peaceful.

From what I have read, it may or may not harass crabs from time to time, but decent sized shrimp are not an issue. At the worst it could sample a coral, but will not actually try to eat them.  I guess the blue-throat generally is not interested in the bottom of the tank being a planktivore, and is very easy to feed - it naturally is looking for food floating in the water column.  So ... share your thoughts:

1. Mated pair ocellaris clownfish (current)
2. six-line wrasse (current)
3. one blue chromis (current) = boring  ;D
4. cleaner shrimp (current)
5. Yellow tang!
6. blue throat trigger  :o
7. Goby / shrimp combo

Other fish I am considering are a bangai cardinal, and eventually... hopefully a dragonet, either the green spotted or the mandarin.

If you see any problems / have ideas let me know.

mikerobart

Picked up a phoenix 14k 250w de from ray. I am going to see if I prefer it to the hamilton 14k I have now. I have seen some people with phoenix and love the colour, I think it has more blue and "actinic pop" than the hamilton. Also just about to head out to pick up something else... maybe update later?  ::)

Hookup


mikerobart

I am really digging the Phoenix 14k. It is slightly brighter, and has a bit more blue than the hamilton 14k. Right now I am running my lights about 10-12" above the tank and no problems with heat or evap when they are on. That being said the longest I have run the halides at a time is about 4 hr. The corals all seem to be loving it. Will try to get pictures up later.

Only the 4 small fish in the tank now... might change later this afternoon.

sniggir

don't rush the fish ..or anything for that matter ...remember only bad things happen fast
90 gallon/ 90 gallon sump all male show tank, 75g Accie, 75g masoni reef alonacara, yellow lab and trio of flame backs, 75 gal tawain reef, 75 gal bi500, red shoulder, blue regal,
40 gal breeder  F1 electric blue frierei, 25 gal sunshine peacock males awaiting females, 20 gallon trio albino pleco, 65gal neolamprongus Brachardi pulcher 2 30g fry grow out, 20g hatchery with 4 batches of eggs currently
Starting on a fish wall for breeding more coming soon!

mikerobart

Well. Some new developments... It seems there was basically no cycle, or what cycle there was lasted less than a week. Ammonia spiked and dropped very fast to zero, trates went up afterwards and then came down.. not zero yet but still working towards it.

I think adding CUC right away and running almost no lights at first, following Ray's advice, was a big help.

I am running the 2x24w pc's about 6 hr now, and the halides about 4. Not a spot of algae anywhere, and the water is gin clear. All corals transferred from my other tank, and some of the sand.

The coral seems to be adjusting the the new much more intense lighting well. Everything seems to be in order, and although some people may think it too soon, gven how incredibly happy and healthy the fish from my 29g seem to be in the 90g, I decided it was time to add the first completely new livestock!

Got a great deal on a smallish clam (~3") and some very nice small zoa frags.. very impressive colours. Also found a healthy yellow tang at marinescape. They have had him for some time, and he is eating well with no signs of Ich or HLLE. He seems to be very happy, and enjoys chomping on macro growing on the LR, brine shrimp, and the occasional bit of chaeto that travels up from the fuge, which he will promptly slurp up like spaghetti.

Finally, I added a very nice feather duster. The six-line wrasse nipped at it a bit at first but is leaving it alone now. I know more aggressive wrasses can be a problem with these but all is well so far.

Vincenzo.

ya i think the best idea is to run no lights right from the start. i have herd people who run light at the start then try and go light less after a few months, and everything seems fine while no lights are on, but when you flip them back on..it's an algae take over. if it was me id just keep doing what your doing, and it'll be long but eventually go away. good old scraper and razor blade + elbow grease. g'luck

mikerobart

So far not even the slightest bit of algae.. weirdest thing ever!

Hookup

Great!   Sounds like a solid plan, though I'll admit you did seem to add quite a bit all at once, but hey... only the strong survive in this world, so get a frigg'n helmet and join the game...  :P :P

mikerobart

Yeah I put the fish in there pretty quick but all levels are rock solid. Other than my salinity as of this morning  :o. I learnt the hard way the ATO reservoir should be BELOW the sump level and the tubing should NOT be able to become submerged. Dumped about 4g of make-up water into the system. I guess being paranoid and having a small top-off reservoir (only 6 gallons and it was only partially full) was not a bad thing.

Salinity dropped from 1.025 to about 1.024, which isn't a big deal as far as I can tell. Skimmer cup filled with water and overflowed a bit.. luckily I had just cleaned it so not really any skimmate dumped into the system. As a chemical engineer.. I should really understand fluid mechanics and should have thought of this before.. kicking myself for overlooking something so simple.

Will have to change it up a bit tonight. I think what happened is once the ATO kicked in and the reservoir level was higher than the sump, it just continued to drain until they levelled out. I have a 6g jug of top off hidden in a storage chair I bought, and the jug is fairly thin and lays flat inside the chair... but a few inches above the water level in the sump. A peristaltic type pump would probably allow me to get away with this but not my little aqualifter. I will have to lay the jug on the floor I think.

In more positive news, I am starting to see pods in the fuge, and also a weird tiny snail type thing that I think came over from my old tank.. only one of those spotted so far. Chaeto / Caulerpa is growing fairly well. The flow through the fuge is fastest across the top of course, and it sometimes draws the macro into a mat that lays against the baffle with water passing through it. Should I try to keep the macro lower down or does this matter?  My only fear is that if there was more of it, in a power outage it might make it's way into the return chamber ( the level in sump goes slightly above baffles when return pump is off.) When power came back on it might jam up the pump.

I'll try to update with pics soon. I will be seeding the fuge with pods as of thursday if marinescape gets them in, and potentially trying to set up a separate culture in a small tank or in jugs. I know it will happen on it's own eventually, but this tank needs to be LOADED with pods if I am to have success with a dragonet... especially with the six-line wrasse in the tank.

salvini55

just put a peice of egg-crate along the top of the baffle. No more worries. Its commin along real good, ur a lucky dog not getting any algae. My tank looks bad cuz of it....

mikerobart

I think the cured rock (and having some mature rock/sand from my old tank), low light, heavy skimming, and growing macro from the get go have helped. Also, the 84lb of new rock I got from Ray had a good amount of macro on it.. which is coming back to life. The tang is pretty damn pleased about that ... and I think it's sucking up nutrients as well. Hopefully I haven't counted my chickens too early and walk smack into a crazy algae outbreak ! Not going to stock any more fish for a few weeks I think to be safe. Maybe another coral or two. I'm away to Montreal next weekend so this week my priorities will be ensuring stability, trusting my ATO, and getting the pods seeded.

Hookup

Nice save on the ATO/system... a drop that small is nothing to worry about at all... Honestly, it's no difference than a rain-storm on the shallow reef... the revers process however can be dangerous... but not many ways of quickly increasing your salt-water accidentaly...


mikerobart

Yeah I think I will place the aqualifter on the botttom of the stand, the ato reservoir will stay in my storage chair, and the tube for fresh top off water will discharge above the level of the reservoir... As long as gravity can't drain the ATO I am ok I think.
                                                               ______________
__________________________                     |                     |
|Chair with ATO reservoir inside|--|               |
------------------------------    |               |
                                              |_____       |                   |SUMP  |
                                              |PUMP|____|                    |_____|

Hookup

a) your at-work diagram skills are awesome...

b) that looks safe, though there is no reason to raise the ATO bucket to make it work... no reason not to either...

mikerobart

a)  ;D
b) right now it looks like the above, but the pump is sitting inside the chair, on top of the ato jug, and the discharge of the tube is much lower in sump (below the level of the jug.)

salvini55

So whats new? Get them pods seeded? Did the skimmer run the tank dry while u were away? ATO overflow the tank allover the floor? Hair algea take over the tank to the point that the fish became fossils? SOOOOO tell us!

mikerobart

Alright salvini, just for you I will spill the beans ! Threw in two things of DT's ... man the pods are everywhere now... even before the DT's I was seeing some on the glass, especially in the fuge.. but now I'm seeing many more. My chaeto is also really starting to grow. I am running the fuge bulbs usually 24/7, might switch up to a reverse photoperiod eventually... not sure really.

The skimmer is the weirdest thing... it actually only really foams up hard and dry after I feed. Like I mean.. hardly any skimmate production at all... I will feed and then overnight it will pop out a few oz. It's almost like the bioload is not enough for it at times... I need to swap out the air hose soon though it is too soft and kinks easily.

ATO is working perfectly now that I messed with the snail guard a bit ( I think it was trapping air and stopping the switch from being affected by water level! . )

Other than some human error.. it's only a 6g jug and when I fill it with RO/DI I have to judge by wiggling the jug and trying to gauge the water level inside ( it's not clear plastic.) I thought it could take another 3g or so on friday... went to do some stuff, have a shower.. come back and about a gallon overflowed in the storage chair... that was a pain.

Current evap is about 1.5 g a day I think, with halides on for about 4 hr still I think. No humidity problems in my small room so far.

Not to brag, but there is not a spec of algae in the tank... it's surprising even me. NONE. Not on the rocks, not on the glass. The chaeto is growing nicely, water is always clear as anything... must be the skimmer cheatro ro/di super-trifecta tag team combo.  :D

Ok, I will admit I saw a few (maybe 20-30) of these little hair like things on the glass..mostly in the fuge, when I got back from montreal yesterday. I am not sure if there is a bit of green to them or not (mostly white) but they look kind of like fine filaments with bulbous tips. About 4mm long each.

Now... don't flame me for the next bit. I added a teeny tiny regal tang to the mix! I sort of broke some rules here I know, and was ready to remove / will be ready to remove in future if size becomes a problem or if him and the yellow don't get along. For now, no-one seems to care at all.. the yellow and him completely ignore each other.. and he likes to swim with the other fish. Taking frozen brine and pellets with enthusiasm! Only about the size of a toonie and he can chase down food like my fat female clownfish. I am hoping that if the two tangs get along, there is at least a 1-2 yr time frame before this guy would outgrow the 90g. The yellow is about 3", the regal about 1.25" right now.

Time to start adding some more coral I think! Also have some eye on some bangai's .... I am sure you guys know where I get my fish for now? If only I can figure out how to tell the difference between male and female juvi's a pair would be pretty cool, I have never seen the mouthbrooding thing but I hear it is pretty awesome. 

Honestly, with the size of the fish in there now the tank still looks a little empty. Definitely more coral additions to come soon. I'm keeping a close eye on things and trying not to get too trigger happy with fish purchases. I know I'm getting lazy with pics but if enough people bug me I'll add some tonight!

sdivell

I think I speak for everybody when I say...PICTURES!



mikerobart

#98
.

mikerobart

#99
Planning to start adding more LPS soon to make things a little more interesting! Going to stick with mostly some lps for awhile and maybe slowly some sps. Anyone want to recommend some cool corals to try? I was thinking some various mushrooms, some more from the euphyllea (sp?) family, and maybe some duncans.


mikerobart

Ahh blastomussa forgot about that one! Very nice indeed. I have always loved frogspawn and it is almost always available at a decent price, so I will definitely add a piece. Looks like I might be picking up an aussie duncan later as well, and will keep an eye out for cool blasto's.

mikerobart

Here you go guys... added a few small items, and one biggie.. my first piece of sps :D. Going to see if I can keep this think healthy and start watching ca/mag/alk a little more carefully!















mikerobart

Thanks Hookup... I have a very very very very long way to go to get to where I want though! I still feel it looks better in person though  :P.

When the coral load goes up I am going to have to start thinking about dosing a bit more. For now I have some 2 part I can use. Longer term I am considering something like tropic-marin bio-calcium by hand, or if I want to go more automated, two part via dosing pumps and maybe a third part (mag) by hand.

Also mulling over controllers. The GHL is not in my budget, I do like the RK's.. but the iphone app for the neptune is pretty wicked by the looks of it, and the internet set-up seems easy. Waiting to here more about the very new Neptune Apex. Looks like reviews are just starting to pop up, and reefgeek.com says they have stock now.. not sure about Canadian distributors though.

Other thing, while I really like the phoenix 14k, I still am not getting as much of the fluorescent/actinic pop I would like... the 24w pc's in this fixture just don't quite do it. I think 2 or 4 t5ho's in addition to the 2x250w hqi's could make some insannnee colour.


mikerobart

Wondering if I can squeeze in a 2x54w t5ho fixture in front (forward of) my halides. Anyone know of good 2x54w fixtures? Looking for something pretty compact. So far I have found:

1. Aquamedic Sunbeam 2x54w t5ho
2. Hagen GLO 2x54w t5ho

Obviously the aquamedic has better reflectors, but keep in mind this is for supplementation only.. and appearance is also an issue. Current fixture is black, and very sexy.. don't want to make it look too silly if I don't have too.  :D

Hookup

Quote from: mikerobart on August 20, 2009, 09:34:42 PM
Thanks Hookup... I have a very very very very long way to go to get to where I want though! I still feel it looks better in person though  :P.
I find the same... I'm have yet to take a photo that captures the omg wow factor that I personally feel is in my tank...

Your list of future items is impressive... I've not heard of the neptune controller/iPhone app... sounds cool for sure...

The profilux is a great controller, but man, they could have done so much better with their software... its like trying to scratch your left ear with your left foot... sure it's possible, but it takes some doing... argh....  However, it's upgradeable, expandable, and just about unlimited in its flexability as a platform... so you have to take the good with the bad...


mikerobart

Yeah the aquanotes app works for both the acjr, ac3, and brand new apex I believe. Pretty cool imo. We will see how $$$ holds up when I am back in school  ;D. One final semester... All depends on how good job opportunities are looking I guess. It's weird living on a lot of credit because money is not "real", and I have nothing but willpower to stop me from making outrageous purchases  :D.


Hookup

agreed, those last pics were tastey, but i'm hungry for more already.. :)

mikerobart

Oh there will be more soon! Just have been really busy lately! One sad event though... my yellow tang, who survived being suctioned onto a powerhead (maxi-mod) .. I had thought his lack of appetite was just because of the ich spots but he stopped eating completely and died  :'(. All the other fish seem very happy. The small regal tang had some ich spots as well but they are slowly dissapearing... none of the other fish seem to have any and all are eating very very well... even the mandarin dragonet!!!!! The mandarin cruises for pods all day and mostly comes out when the lights are low... so far I have not seen any fewer pods than usual on the glass. I have a 29 gallon still with no fish in it (did not tear down yet) that is teeming with pods and other critters is I see that there are not enough in the 90g I can seed more.

As it is though, I seeded with two packs of DT's as well as one pack of tigger pods.  The wrasse and mandarin are loving it!

I also re-aquascaped... I like it but I now have a lot of open glass space on the back wall and not sure I like that with no black background or significant coraline growth as of yet. I will need to get some advice on the 'scape when I get new pics up.

Also probably want to add some new coral and cuc in the next little while, and still mulling over adding 2x54w t5's and maybe thinking of a controller as well. Working a lot less now with my last semester of school starting wednesday so might have to be more budget conscious ::).

The critters as of now:

mated pair ocellaris clowns
fat ugly blue chromis
six line wrasse
royal gramma
regal tang
mandarin dragonet!
3x cleaner shrimp
asst. snails nassarius, cerith etc.
some blue and red leg hermits
emerald crab... no idea where he is

I think I might be getting close to the upper end of fish stocking but it still seems empty in terms of fish as only the regal, chromis, and wrasse really openly cruise the entire tank. Will not be adding any more fish until I do not see any ich spots left on the regal and may wait quite a while anyways after that...

any ideas LMK!

salvini55

Turn the 29 into a separate fuge! Sorry bout the tang... Shatty deal. Actinic suppliment, yes. You got a mandarin! Im jelouse  >:(

kole18

nice tank and also very empressive how you set it up the landscape of LR. here's my currently tank 40g mix of sps & lps clams..etc
fishlist:
convic tang
pair of false perc ( as you see on my pic they just have lay eggs today every 3rd week )
mandarine
ruby fair wrasse (male)
yellow watchman w/ pistol shrimp
sailfin blenny (aka mr bully on my clams) ;D
clams deresa, 2 squamosa, crocea
lot's variaty of sps
here's my photobuckets:
http://s611.photobucket.com/albums/tt198/pete1809/
http://s611.photobucket.com/albums/tt198/pete1809/

Vincenzo.

looking good man. and congratz on not having any algae.

mikerobart

Thanks guys  ;D. I will post pics of the new scape in the next few days. Kole18 your tank looks awesome and jam packed with corals! Derasa and squamosa are both cool clams been thinking about adding a derasa myself... not sure if Pat has any left maybe... As for algae.. I do have a bunch in the fuge and some in my overflow area... not much in the display though. Hopefully it stays that way with Bubbles the yellow tang no longer with us.

In other news... found a great deal on an icecap 660. If I can find a way to mount some vho's or t5's (hang them off my lightbar and have it not look dumb without a fixture) I will be working on that in the next little while!


mikerobart

So I'll pick up the icecap 660 thursday. Comes with endcaps for 2 t12's, although it will run 4 vho t12's or overdrive 4 t5ho's.

I'm trying to figure out what configuration will be best, keeping in mind I don't want to do a canopy, and don't have a lot of room to work with. I assume if I just have two vho's hanging near the front, even with 180 degree internal reflectors they might spill quite a bit of light or at the least be hard to look at  :D ... Will have to rig something up that will work.

mikerobart

Got my ballast ! Killer deal  ;D . Leaning towards running 2x 110w VHO actinics and 2x54w blue t5ho's overdriven... think it could be an insane dawn / dusk and also reduce the amount of time I will need to run my halides since it will add some pretty nice par on it's own... may help in stabilizing tank temperature as well.

Do you guys agree that t5ho actinics still are not meeting the crazy fluorescent glow you can get from the classic vho actinics ?

I already have the 2 sets of vho endcaps so I figure might as well use them. Options would be:

1. 2x vho + 2x t5ho (overdriven)
2. 2x vho
3. 4x t5ho (overdriven)
4. 4xvho (definitely not enough room.. don't like this option)

can't block out my mh either that would destroy the purpose!

Hookup

option 3 - but I'll admit I do not know much about VHO's... other then they are old skool, and some people are trying to get them to come back... possibly cause they are in fact better, but T5's + MH have produced just about every TOTM for the past 3 years... not a bad track record if you ask me.

mikerobart

You have a point there.. and it would take up much less space for sure, also could direct all light into tank with reflectors.

Hopefully I can make a little frame that works well and doesn't look stupid. Going to take awhile to make up my mind on this one though.

Tyler.L

whoa whoa tim.... theres also alot of totm that are vho and mh actually i think im gonna have to count how many in the last little while were vho vs t5...regardless they're awsome either way...

Hookup

Quote from: Tyler.L on September 11, 2009, 10:25:03 AM
whoa whoa tim.... theres also alot of totm that are vho and mh actually i think im gonna have to count how many in the last little while were vho vs t5...regardless they're awsome either way...

I'd guess that 70% are MH + T5 combos... there are defiantely some of everything, proving that there isn't one right solution...

I could be off.. but even if 50% of them are T5+MH, the other 50% is divided across all other systems..T5 only, VHO+MH, etc...

If you do a count on TOTM to get a "real number" as opposed to my guesstimate/WAG i'm curious to see the final count and how close I am.

salvini55

#121
I bet MH will be a thing of the past soon and more and more will use LED, plasma or T5. Dont get me wrong MH lights are the bomb but they consume lots of electricity and produce lots of heat. So why not switch to something more "green".

Mike, I think a nice black enclosure would be easy to make and look great. Maybe black acrylic for a very sleek look with clean lines and reduced wieght since you hang your fixture?

Hookup

I'm all for LED systems... But the cost aside, there really isn't any good info on them.  Just pioneers trying stuff to see how it works...   In time, you're right, MH are likely a dying technology for those exact reasons...

mikerobart

Like the discussion guys. I tried the VHO super actinics and the look wasn't quite what I was hoping for so I am now thinking about using 4 t5's or just taking it easy right now... not like the phoenix 14k is not nice on it's own  8)...

In the meantime I added two coco worms and a nice big turbo snail.

Unfortunately lost the small regal tang to ich... going to be staying away from tangs for some time I think! None of the other fish have even a spot and all are very happy. Even the mandarin just seems to be getting fatter... and no sign of the pod population decreasing in any way my eyes can notice at least. I'll keep you updated.

salvini55

I love coco worms. Sorry about the tangs, they make nice show fish.

mikerobart

Yeah they were great while they lasted  :(. I guess the yellow probably could have been a bit fatter when I got him... but after getting sucked into the powerhead he got bad ich, and regal as well... and things went downhill.

mikerobart

I ran into a small bit of hair algae in the display but it is nicely contained to a few parts of the sand. Hopefully 3 turbo's will help, along with some reduced feeding. I also picked up a next reef mr1 media reactor from Ray, great build quality on this thing and quite a bit of room. I am planning to run carbon for now until I get some GFO.

Also, my two-part starter kit from bulk reef supply came the other day... pretty good deal for some high purity chemicals for Ca/Alk/Mg. Will start using this stuff when my current supply of two-part and mag runs out. For now I am dosing by hand usually daily, eventually I would like to get into dosing pumps, probably running off a controller.

Oh, and got a pink/blue spotted watchman goby and pistol shrimp from Pat last weekend. I had read enough about them and girlfriend said we had to have them... At first they started the tunnels in the back of the tank where I couldn't see them but with selectively feeding the front of the tank only they now opened it up in the front.

I think maybe 50-75% of my bottom rock is actually on the bottom glass or very close to it... fingers cross I don't get a rock slide. Has anyone actually had a rock slide happen from a shrimp/ goby? I tried to slide most of the rock into the sand a bit when I first set up but it's not all actually on glass.

My mandarin is still living in the fuge after the six-line decided not to be friendly anymore.

How many of you guys run carbon and how often? GFO ? I may eventually put another piece of filter pad in the reactor to create two chambers and get some gfo media in there but for now will try the carbon only for a bit.


Hookup

I saw those gobies... very nice.

I run carbon 100% of the time.  It's fairly inexpensive and helps polish the water making it that much clearer.  I've also not heard of any problems running carbon 100% of the time.  I change it every 6weeks (or there about) and use a two little fishies phosban reactor and MJ400.

salvini55

ALGAE! When i started running GFO in the reactor i havent had problems since.  ;D

PS. I have a sea hare for you!!!! lol

mikerobart

LOL we will see about the sea hare! If it does not get better with this new reactor, some water changes etc I may have to think about it  :D. I think it may have been me overfeeding a bit and neglecting water changes... not like I have a major nutrient problem though, levels are good and even my sps seems to be doing very well so far. I know an update with pics is well overdue.

Have had this reactor going with carbon only a few hours and although my water was pretty damn clear before it is absolutely sparkling now.. gotta love that.

salvini55

I want pics!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!11


salvini55

ok, Ill cut yo an offer you cant refuse. Update your thread and ill deliver some snails to you! DO IT

audioslave_36

get the feeling he is ignoring this threrad?   :-\

Severum

Ya Mike, update this thread and take the snails. You can come pick them up at my place... ;D
Regards,
Steve Everum

"We like people for their qualities, but love them for their defects."

120 gallon reef

mikerobart

Have been INSANELY busy lately... but ... will post a very very short update for you guys. Including a little video of my goby/pistol shrimp doing their thing.

mikerobart

#136
All taken with my my phone please don't mind the quality ! Also some changes I'd like to make to the scape etc. when I have time! The tank needs some work but not looking bad overall.









salvini55

I started to get worried there. Cell pics get the job done. Lookin good coraline up the wazoo. Ya get your snails from Vafa... lol

mikerobart

Yeah Coralline growth has been really good .. and it's mostly on the rock, not as much on the glass, even the back panel which is not really cleaned much.. so I'm quite pleased. I'll get that video up tonight or tomorrow. Might be a little while before I can get some snails.. seriously swamped with work.


OttawaFolkFestivum

Cheers, Steve

salvini55

let me know when its a good time. Im out of town for a few days.

mikerobart

Here's a really short, poor quality phone cam vid for you guys. Compression was pretty messed up but hey I put it to a nice song so hopefully you enjoy! Oh man how I want a dslr that shoots hd video, with a nice quality macro lens... could do some insane stuff.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wucTBExx_f4

mikerobart

Oh, and thanks for the kind words. I wish I had more time to make the changes I want with the tank... Hopefully over the holidays and in the new year I can really get it looking how I want. I finish my university programs this december so things are really crazy right now.

FocusFin

Quote from: mikerobart on November 28, 2009, 03:09:07 PM
Here's a really short, poor quality phone cam vid for you guys. Compression was pretty messed up but hey I put it to a nice song so hopefully you enjoy! Oh man how I want a dslr that shoots hd video, with a nice quality macro lens... could do some insane stuff.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wucTBExx_f4

They look like an old married couple :)
110g saltwater/reef


I was walking down the street and a man was hammering on a roof top and he called me a Paranoid Little Weirdo. . . in morse code.

mikerobart

Yeah, it is so cool how the shrimp will keep an antenna on the tail of the goby.. and if you approach the tank too fast or the goby is apprehensive, he will flick his tail a bit and the shrimp goes back in the hole. They are both pretty timid so usually I use a turkey baster to get some food right into their den, where that happens to be at the time (it moves frequently). Oftentimes though, the 4 cleaner shrimp catch on and harrass them. It's funny seeing the goby trying to eat with 3 or 4 clean shrimp literally standing on him also trying to get at the food. Sometimes the goby will eat right from the turkey baster.. very funny.

mikerobart

I have added a pink-tail trigger and filefish, as well as a sandsifting star. Have also added to the CUC. New EVC 20K 250W DE bulbs should be coming next week, and I'm hoping they are blue enough for me. Sanjay's charts indicate they should be bluer than the Phoenix and have pretty decent par for a 20K.

I added about 10lb of LR, and did a water change recently that was long overdue. The tank is doing well, other than nuking a few pieces of sps here and there knocking them into things. I need to be more careful when I have my hands in the tank!

One thing that pissed me off was when I was doing a water change... the water level changing inside my next reef reactor suddenly and me not positioning the filter pad that keeps the carbon in...it pumped out carbon granules which were later taken into the display... the sand now has a nice peppering of carbon chunks. Doesn't seem to be causing any problems so far.... might stir the sand slightly and try to bury it !

I'll try to get some pics up later tonight, hopefully the fish will be out of hiding. Unfortunately the filefish has a little hat on the spine, made of fish net that got caught on him and had to be cut off. Pretty funny, maybe will fall off eventually. Mainly I am hoping he will eat the aiptasia I am finding from time to time.

mikerobart

#147
 So the EVC bulbs arrived and they rock, I really like the look with or without supplementation. Very very bright don't look any dimmer than the phoenix really and definitely slightly more blue, which is what I was looking for because Phoenix were white white after burn on with my ballast.

I did a t5ho retro to my fixture, wanted a little more oomph for dawn and dusk then what I had, which was 2x24w PC's (they are still a part of the fixture but I might not run them now with the t5ho's).

The light now has 2x250W DE's, 2x24w PC's, and 2x54W t5ho's. Definitely a lot of selection and colour tweaking power now, not to mention mega amount of light into the tank!

For the retro, I bought a 2x54W 48" tek 2 kit from Ray... came with everything I needed.  The bulbs right now I'm using a ULV Super Actinic and ATI blue plus. I must say the UVL super actinic is very very very close to the URI or UVL VHO actinics. Looks awesome. Both are incredibly bright and together give an amazing blue/purple/super radioactive look to the tank.

It looks reallly washed out in the pictures (iphone pics) but in person it rocks. I think I will stick with these bulbs for now.
Also, compared to the 24w PC's (which are on in one of the pics)... the brightness is incredible. The PC's are blue bulbs, and even the super actinic absolutely dominates them. I might not even use them... or I will with some kind of stepped dawn and dusk with two stages.

I should mention the end caps were not originally black, I painted them and the stand offs black (heat resistant gloss pain) to match the fixture. Drilled holes, used self tapping screws to secure, and drilled holes to route the wires through the fixture. The ballast is external because I was concerned about heat inside the fixture.

It turned out pretty well and you'd probably say it was stock if you didn't know better!





Both t5ho and PC are on in this pic... I'll let you decide how much brighter the t5's are wow.









mikerobart

Pinktail trigger - great fish. Keeps scratching himself up on rocks because he likes to rocket across the tank at mach 3 and then stuff himself through small holes. Doesn't seem to phase him... he eats like a pig! Very cool fish.



Getting some really cool sponge growth on this rock... my oldest piece of LR, got it from Pat and had it in my old tank about a year ago. Started with one head of hairy mushroom about 1 " across. Now there has to 7 or 8 HUGE ones, that expand to about 6" across. This really cool neon yellow sponge thing is also growing like wildfire and is starting to show up on other rocks as well. As is quite a bit of the whiter sponge. So many things growing on this rock!



Filefish... now in the prison tank. Decided he likes zoas and some sps. Once the few aipstasias were gone had to get him out. YMMV !


Cheebs

Nice stuff mike!  Same thing happened to me with my filefish :( That Trigger looks mean though!
I think those yellow sponges might be some bigass squirts, not sure if they are the sponge family. Wicked tank!

mikerobart

Thanks Cheebs! Darn filefish wish he would only eat aipstasia guess that would be too perfect eh ? Trigger looks mean sometimes but he really is a gentle giant! Have had no issues with him as far as I can tell. Thanks for clarifying on the sponges er bigass squirts ! To be honest I like what you are calling them better  :o.

mikerobart

It is just too difficult working in my stand with my current sump (33g.. or 36" x 12" x 16").. even though it's a 48" perfecto stand, the corner braces eat up a bit of room inside, and the front doors only open about 24", so no chance of removing the sump through the doors, can't get my current skimmer out to clean etc. etc.

With this in mind I am thinking of a smaller more functional sump.. a 20g long will probably be the best dimensions without going custom acrylic or something like that. So 30" x 12" x 12". A 30" x 12" x 16" would probably be better but this is not a normal size I think. 18" tall and I am starting to lose too much height inside the stand for working and electronics mounting etc. I also am not super happy with my skimmer ... I think it's an issue with not enough bioload and the massive 8" body just not being able to get a stable foam head with my current bioload. Also eating up so much sump space.

So looking at small foot print skimmers like the swc 160 cone... which would be 9" x 7" footprint approximately.The sump will need room for a filter sock, the skimmer, a small refugium area to run chaeto, and of course a small section for the return pump and ATO. I am basing this pretty much off my current sump, and want to keep it pretty simple. I only have one drain line and one return.

Tough decisions to make as is common with this hobby it seems... my first idea was to just get a cheap steel stand which would give me tons of room under the stand, and skin it with plywood w/ magnets for super easy access. Then I realized that to keep a hanging light fixture using the electrical conduit hanger I made I need a wood stand to secure that into so I think I want to stick with what I have despite it's small crappy doors  :D.

With the smaller sump there should be plenty of room in the sump for my big carbon reactor, and another one for GFO eventually, maybe even the ATO reservoir could be squeezed in.

Tell me what you think of this sump design:


Rybren

Assuming the tank is 12" deep, your return section would be ~2.2 gal.  I don't know what the flow rate is on your return pump is, but that seems small to me and doesn't leave much room for evaporation.

I'm in the process of setting up a 75G with a 35G (36x12x19?) sump.  The doors in my stand aren't high enough to allow me to do much of anything from the front.  I really wanted the volume of the sump, so I set up the tank in a corner with enough space to squeeze behind the tank.  This gives me tons of room behind the tank to work, a place for the top-off reservoir, and eventually, a place for my skimmer (I have an Octo recirc that I can use externally).

120G Reef

mikerobart

Quote from: Rybren on April 06, 2010, 12:49:19 PM
Assuming the tank is 12" deep, your return section would be ~2.2 gal.  I don't know what the flow rate is on your return pump is, but that seems small to me and doesn't leave much room for evaporation.

I'm in the process of setting up a 75G with a 35G (36x12x19?) sump.  The doors in my stand aren't high enough to allow me to do much of anything from the front.  I really wanted the volume of the sump, so I set up the tank in a corner with enough space to squeeze behind the tank.  This gives me tons of room behind the tank to work, a place for the top-off reservoir, and eventually, a place for my skimmer (I have an Octo recirc that I can use externally).

Well my auto top float switches seem to be sensitive to about 1/8 " so evap is not an issue as it will constantly be replenished... now if you mean in the event of failing to keep my ato reservoir filled up and running out of top off water yeah I guess I would burn that pump pretty fast! I hadn't really thought of it as too much of an issue with a ATO system.

Flow rate on my pump is probably 900 gph max, but with my plumbing and current head maybe 700 wide open and I have it dialed back even more to 400-500. I am going for relatively low flow through the sump for good contact with filtration equipment.

I also have to make sure that there is room for all the "live" water in the system to drain when the return pump is turned off. I think this allows for about 7 gallons before it hits the rim of the 20g long (with this baffle configuration and depending on the water level in the return section)... and I have to double check I don't have more than that currently.

Hookup

I like it.  Maybe you could use the two little fishes reactors and hang them on the outside of the sump to save space.

mikerobart

Well right now I have a NextReef MR1 which is a beautiful beast of a reactor... only running carbon right now but it's big enough that I could easily run phosban in it as well and just use the one reactor.. might suck for changing carbon and phosban at different times but by separating with filter sponge should not be a problem. If there is room I may add a nextreef shorty for the phosban... I really love this reactor. I am using it in the hang on configuration on the side of the sump. I guess I could easily bring them outside the stand altogether if I need to.

mikerobart

In the interest of maximizing space ( and due to a small oops in placing / siliconing one of the baffles) I will probably just be using three. The first two are as in my plan above, but I used only the lower one before the return. I really don't see the need for two there anyways as microbubbles shouldn't be that much of an issue. My silicone work was kinda messy but it is just a sump and I am not too worried !

Now maybe time to pull the trigger on a nice compact skimmer...  :D

holachicka

Quote from: mikerobart on February 12, 2010, 03:40:41 PM
Pinktail trigger - great fish. Keeps scratching himself up on rocks because he likes to rocket across the tank at mach 3 and then stuff himself through small holes. Doesn't seem to phase him... he eats like a pig! Very cool fish.

I've noticed Severums bluethroat trigger do that a number of times...and agreed, boy are those little guys FAST! At any given time the trigger has scratches on his cheeks/forehead...only difference is, judging by what you say, your trigger makes it into the wholes...this trigger, not so smart, he ends up running into the rock head first...and liek you said, eats like a freakin pic :) He is one of my favs!

mikerobart

Yeah it was a toss up for me between the blue throat and pinktail... did not have the $$$ for a cross-hatch but maybe someday. Have not had any problems with respect to the fish not being reef safe other than it possibly being a snail killer... haven't seen him do it but has been a lot of killed snails lately  :o.  Oh and the yellow tang the trigger may or may not have killed.  >:(

holachicka

really?! I don't know about the snail killer part...I don't think I have noticed that but then again, I am not there 24/7, Maybe Severum can clarify on that but I do know that his flame angel LOVES to nip at the snails little antenna's and the flame (also known as BULLY) has taken over the pistol shrimp/goby burrow :( You never know how the fish will react - I mean, you have an idea but in the end, I am a strong believer that every fish can totally surprise you and go against their supposed "should be" and "should not be" boxes we humans have tried to put them in :) :)

Good luck finding your snail killer ;)

Severum

Quote from: holachicka on April 09, 2010, 09:41:06 AM
Maybe Severum can clarify

:)
My trigger is like the fat kid in school. He is huge and eats a ton of food but gets bullied around.  He does run into walls but gets considerable damage from the purple tangs tail. He will wedge himself in a rock and the tang just thrashes away. I did see him bite a nassarius snail that was trying to flip itself over but he let go and didn't come back for more.

The flame angel bites nassarius snail antennas off.

The royal gramme kicked the goby and pistol shrimp out of their burrow. I haven't seen them for weeks.  :'(

Big Al's had a really neat Pinktail trigger some time ago. We named him "Du Du Da" (said with a Homer Simpson voice). Almost pulled the trigger on him, he was very cute.
Regards,
Steve Everum

"We like people for their qualities, but love them for their defects."

120 gallon reef

holachicka

Quote from: Severum on April 09, 2010, 10:04:24 AM
The royal gramme kicked the goby and pistol shrimp out of their burrow. I haven't seen them for weeks.  :'(

oh yah, it was the royal gramme that is the bully - thanks for calling me out on my mistake and clarifying ;)

mikerobart

Funny you mention the royal gramma... mine is bullied into it's tiny rock hole by my six-line wrasse. The other fish in the tank will get thinner when I feed less.. the wrasse is always fat no matter what because he is munching on pods all day long. Damn wrasse was the death of my mandarin... loved that fish. There is a good chance that I will get rid of mr.wrasse when I get to taking out the rest of the rock because I really like mandarins and not sure the six line will put with one feasting on his precious pods.

In other news... this will be arriving April 14  ;D:


mikerobart

Vafa, I thought my goby and pistol where long gone and then one day after not seeing either in weeks I wake up and there is an absolute mountain of sand that goes from the base of the tank to midway up the rock work. The pistol shrimp obviously decided it was time for some digging. Then, shortly after that, looking at night with a little led flashlight I see the missing goby poking his head out of his old burrow. I wonder what all these critters will do without sand... I think it will actually be easier to see them more. I know I am seeing worms I never saw before in my 29g where I am cooking some rock... easier to see all kinds of crazy stuff without the sand.

Severum

Quote from: mikerobart on April 09, 2010, 10:22:59 AM
In other news... this will be arriving April 14  ;D:

How much clearance do you need to remove to cup on that bad boy? I don't mean the half inch to get the cup off. I mean for the whole cup.
Regards,
Steve Everum

"We like people for their qualities, but love them for their defects."

120 gallon reef

mikerobart

Quote from: Severum on April 09, 2010, 10:38:44 AM
How much clearance do you need to remove to cup on that bad boy? I don't mean the half inch to get the cup off. I mean for the whole cup.

You mean the cup as opposed to the lid? They said 1/2" to remove the cup on my extreme 200 and that was dead on. That is, 1/2" and I can take it right off the skimmer for cleaning and emptying.

mikerobart

#166
20g long sump... note one slightly crooked baffle  ;D

mikerobart

The other new toy:


Vs algae encrusted Korallia 3  ;D

salvini55


mikerobart

Ohhhh yeah ! Excited to get this thing cleaned up and barebottom and working the way I want it to. I am basically starting from scratch as I'll be draining the tank, cleaning, and refilling with new water and mostly cooked rock.

Hookup

WOW... very nice... I'm looking forward to seeing it all come together... new pumps, new skimmer, new sump, no sand... wowowowow...

Severum

Better question. How tall is the cup? :)

Can you put me in touch with the cash cow you just hit thats allowing you to purchase all this new, fancy, jealousy-inducing, equipment.
Regards,
Steve Everum

"We like people for their qualities, but love them for their defects."

120 gallon reef

mikerobart

Quote from: Severum on April 09, 2010, 12:41:31 PM
Better question. How tall is the cup? :)

Can you put me in touch with the cash cow you just hit thats allowing you to purchase all this new, fancy, jealousy-inducing, equipment.

I'm guessing the cup is about 6" high but to be honest I don't know that exact measurement. I know it's smaller than the cup on my extreme 200 and much smaller than the cup on your jealousy inducing alpha cone.

My cash cow can be found here: www.royalbank.ca. I may as well tap out this line of credit before it converts into a loan in 6 months and I need to start making payments right? Or maybe my thinking on this is wrong  ;D.

mikerobart



This scape was the result of randomly yanking the easiest to grab rocks out.. I kinda like it.



More rocks and corals out


Really cool chalice frag ( at least that's what I'm calling it.) Part of the fragalot order.. has been growing steadily and amazing colour... neon yellow/green and insane orange.


29 gallon holding some rock that won't be cooked due to encrusted corals .. and coral pieces by themselves.


very unhappy aussie duncan... had just a couple heads when I got it and now well over a dozen


Kiteh hatez RODI


Looking lonely


Please will someone in Ottawa stock filter socks already ?


Soon to be for sale... anyone want it?


Vincenzo.

how much u selling the skimmer for? lmk.

Severum

That skimmer might be a tad oversized for your Solana. Since your considering oversized, how about a Volcano skimmer? :)
Regards,
Steve Everum

"We like people for their qualities, but love them for their defects."

120 gallon reef

mikerobart

As it's probably pretty oversized on this tank with my current load perhaps tgis may be true.

Snider82

i need a skimmer for my 90 + 30 sump. ill have to keep my eye out on the clasifides

Vincenzo.

ya its deff to big for what i need. thanks for the PM mike.

Bob P

Just to back up a bit, I'd think twice about the ball valve
on the skimmer pipe.Let the water flow down unrestricted and
adjust with the return line valve.The hole in the ball inside
the valve is the perfect spot for a blockage by a wayward
hermit or snail. If this happens, pump will empty the sump
and it's game over for the pump. Might even overflow the tank.
I've got pretty much the same plumbing setup as you describe
with 2 downpipes in my 75 gal.Your return line should siphon
backwards if you turn the pump off, until it sucks air. All you need is enough
room in the sump to accomodate the extra water, And you can service
whatever needs service down below.
My downpipes are not slotted
at the surface, the are actually 1/4 inch below the waterline. I cut
some egg crate to fit in the ends to keep critters out. Works great,
awesome drainage.
Regards.

mikerobart

Hey Bob little confused I've got only one down pipe and one return and the skimmer is not plumbed in at all just sitting in sump. Always leave my valve on the down pipe wide open.

mikerobart

New skimmer should arrive today!  :D

I'll be sure to do a little review for you guys... need to drain and clean my system before it's getting installed in the new sump but I may run it in a tote with sw and maybe whatevers in my current skimmer cup just for kicks. I believe I have read no vinegar bath needed for this guy.

CA1


Hi,

Is that skimmer a SWC 120 or SWC 160? I am looking foward to your review, I am looking at ordering the SWC 160 for my new tank upgrade.


mikerobart

#183
The SWC 160 cone. I'll keep you in mind and try not to be too lazy with review and getting it up and running !

Have an SWC extreme 200 now and issues are I think it may be oversized for my bioload, and takes too much space for sump I want to run. I think I will be able to get more consistent production from the 160 cone from what I have read, and have seen lots of happy customers on other forums.

CA1


I have read alot of good reviews on it on other forums also.


Bob P

K, I've got two down pipes. You have one.
Is it a ball valve in your downpipe? I have seen
a hermit crab block one setup that way so the down
flow fell way behind the return pump that fried when it
went dry.

Bob P

By skimmer pipe, I am referring to the downpipe that "skims" the surface of your tank.

mikerobart

I understand you now. My down pipe does have a true union ball valve just under the tank before the flexible hose that delivers the water the rest of the way into the sump. The ball valve is always wide open ( I have not needed to close it but included just in case I had some need to.)

I have never had any snails make it over into the corner overflow area that I have noticed although I agree it's a possibility. the "teeth" or gate that skims the surface normally extends a good half inch to inch above the usual water level, so the snail would have to want to completely exit the water, cross to the other side, then find it's way to the bottom of the overflow box, and back up the standpipe and into it ( it's a durso type standpipe design that came with the reef ready tank.)

So far so good. I'm made more confident by the fact that even if totally plugged my return section would run dry before the display overfilled onto the floor. I'd rather have a burnt pump than a flood but this system is not enough peace of mind for some people. 

mikerobart

So I got home from work to find my skimmer waiting for me at the door.  :D I couldn't stay long so I only had time to take it out of the box, give it a quick look over and snap a few pics. Bonus is the t-shirt that swc includes... maybe should have asked if it came in small... it's gigantic on me. Other than the giant t-shirt... everything looks to be in order.

Build quality seems very solid. Pretty hefty skimmer, thick acrylic... build like a tank as far as I can see. Nice o-ring seal around the skimmer cup. I like that it can be completely disassembled. Also nice, although not a big deal of course, is that it comes completely assembled. Don't even have to twist a few pvc tubes together... it arrives completely built and boxed pretty nicely in a tall box with Styrofoam walls. Other than that though there is not much packing material inside so the skimmer can bounce around a bit but as everything is tight together cannot see how it would be able to cause any damage. Everything looks clean, polished and solid.

The skimmer looks a little smaller than I expected, especially the collection cup, but I am comparing to the beast extreme 200 that I am used too. I think the fact that the body is easily only 1/3 or less the volume of an extreme 200, and will have over 1/2 the air pull... the bubble density will be much higher inside the body and this is what I am hoping for and have seen in pics/ vids of the skimmer.

I'll add more details as I get it running and taken apart etc. Just wanted to throw something up for anyone who is interested. At this point I feel I got a pretty decent skimmer for the buck. Speaking of bucks, I paid only gst from SWC in Manitoba, and shipping was $28.97 (expedited, Canada post..ordered Friday morning arrived today, Tuesday morning). Anyone who orders from these guys be sure to check the exchange rate and make sure they have updated the website with a current rate if it gets you a better price. Total was $326.38 to the door. More to come later but pics for now:















groan

nice! i notice you are only using 2 baffles for your bubble trap.
i'd like to know how that works foryou. i use 3 but since the last stage leaves the water flow coming out over the top i'm afraid that the water just flows over top to the out-side and the buylk of the water just circulates underneath in that middle section.
at least for yours it flows out the bottom and is forced up to exit to the next area.
hmmm...

mikerobart

That's what I was thinking when I went with just the two baffles. At least the water has to go all the way down and back up and I'm not too worried about microbubbles from this skimmer. Also, will likely be using a filter sock on the overflow pipe so bubbles even less a worry. I'm thinking I may change the sump to specifically accomodate a filter sock. Right now the fit would not be great. If I widen the skimmer chamber I could run the sock behind it, or I could have a separate sock chamber. Still deciding that one. 

Hookup

I really like the holes on the bubble plate... shows that some good thought was given... the SMC in the cup-cover is sexy as well... looks like a really sexy fit into your sump.

mikerobart

Yeah the bubble plate is well done. Man this skimmer body is insanely milked out... Incredibly small bubbles... Running in my cooking tub I just took the rock out of. Already has a nasty frothy foam head after just a few minutes. I'll let it run all night and see what we can get in the cup. So far I'm very impressed. This is a beautiful thing. Very quiet as well.

mikerobart

Well the skimmer pulled what little it could from the relatively clean water I was cooking some rock in... but I still wanted to dump some skimmate in and see what it could do... Of course this is not regular operation since a bunch of skimmate was actually dumped into the rubbermaid with it.. but it pulled the stuff back out FAST. Because there was so much it went into overdrive and the skim is pretty wet even though the water level was set very low in the skimmer.



groan

Thanks, I may just have to remove my last panel...

mikerobart


I guess it skims. The real test will be when it's set up on an actual tank and I won't be able to do that for a little while yet.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qjT-dg083RQ