Reef Bright and Rapid LED discussions.

[JetJumper]

Thats not the same thing.

[rush]

I am not looking to control my lights just the moonlights, which is all I need.

[laffy]

no they are different. the one you are getting is a moonlight controller. the one jetjumper posted controls t5 ballasts and led drivers.

[rush]

Yes but I do not need that.

If I wanted to control my T5's and LED strip yes.

But that is not what I am aiming for.

I am ok with the LED's the way they are. I was making a post saying I did not need to buy the Rapid LEDs with controls for the moonlight effects because I already had that.

There was a miss read somewhere along the line lol

[JetJumper]

I am not looking to control my lights just the moonlights, which is all I need.

Thats a different topic.. Your confusing the hell out of me by not making sense.. :|  We are not talking about moon lights.  We were talking about Dimming.  In order to control the meanwell drivers you need to provide a 0-10v source.  Reefkeeper does that with the ALC Module.  Please keep on topic.

Thanks.

[rush]

Thats a different topic.. Your confusing the hell out of me by not making sense.. :|  We are not talking about moon lights.  We were talking about Dimming.  In order to control the meanwell drivers you need to provide a 0-10v source.  Reefkeeper does that with the ALC Module.  Please keep on topic.

Thanks.

I got confused sorry :S

So I can control the reef brite I have now and the T5 fixture with that ALC from reef keeper? I guess I could also control the moonlight pods as well?

So instead of buying a RKM MLC for the moonlight effect I would be better off with the RKM ALC so I can do the moonlight pods as well as my Reef brite strip and my T5?

[laffy]

you'd have to confirm that the reef brite is dimmable

[HomerJ]

Let's try and clear this up:

MLC:  It is solely a moonlight controller, and will power AND control low current leds (the pods that come with it).

ALC:  Provides a 0-10V signal to CONTROL (it only controls, it does not power) an external driver, which is what powers the LED fixture like one would build using the rapidleds kits.

I don't think the ALC will control the ReefBrites as is, you would need to replace the power brick that came with the ReefBrite with a dimmable driver.

[JetJumper]

Yes, you would be better with the ALC because it does support the Lunar Pods plus a couple other nice features.

ReefBrites are NOT dimmable.  They have the driver built in and from everything I see they cannot be controlled at all.  Just on and off.  I am sure redbelly from ReefWholesale can confirm this.

[HomerJ]

Yes, you would be better with the ALC because it does support the Lunar Pods plus a couple other nice features.

ReefBrites are NOT dimmable.  They have the driver built in and from everything I see they cannot be controlled at all.  Just on and off.  I am sure redbelly from ReefWholesale can confirm this.

The Reefbrite strip I have has the "driver" external to the fixture, in fact it looks just like a laptop power brick.  The ones available initially had a screw on the powerbrick that you could turn to manually dim the strip.  They have since removed this feature (well at least on the strip I bought).  I don't think there's anything in the fixture aside from the leds themselves...

Hmmm... maybe a project for tonight.  Open it up and see what's under the hood.

[JetJumper]

The Reefbrite strip I have has the "driver" external to the fixture, in fact it looks just like a laptop power brick.  The ones available initially had a screw on the powerbrick that you could turn to manually dim the strip.  They have since removed this feature (well at least on the strip I bought).  I don't think there's anything in the fixture aside from the leds themselves...

Hmmm... maybe a project for tonight.  Open it up and see what's under the hood.

Ah okay, so the "brick" will be providing most likely 350-400mA of constant current at a variable voltage.  Just a random guess since the 3w LED's are underpowered to 1.6w's or something in that range.

Its a shame they removed the dimmable feature.

[HomerJ]

Ah okay, so the "brick" will be providing most likely 350-400mA of constant current at a variable voltage.  Just a random guess since the 3w LED's are underpowered to 1.6w's or something in that range.

Its a shame they removed the dimmable feature.

Indeed it's a shame.  I'll check tonight when I get home and post back.

BTW, read on another forum:

Here is what Joy from reefbrite told me.
"We are currently working on a new power supply that will be available to customers that will have the 0-10v dimmable capability and be able to be used with aqua controllers."

[rush]

Yes my reef brite the box is external as well. It is a shame they removed the dimming feature. Let me know if there is a way to make it dimmable if so I swill skip the MLC and get the ALC

if not I will just go with the MLC

[rush]

Or get both

[leemay]

you will get almost 2.5x more light out of a DIY 3w cree LED kit over reefbrites!!
reefbrights are only driven @ 350mA
3w cree leds can be driven @ 1000mA

sorry to go off topic on your group buy thread!

What is everyone opinion...
reef brite vs rapid LED's
both are 3w

[bitterman]

Guys, If you are intested in the group bye on Rapid LED please add it to http://ovas.ca/index.php?topic=43134.0 otherwise keep this great dscusion going on here!

Thanks,
    Bruce

[rush]

So DYI woul dbe the best way to go from here?

[bitterman]

So DYI woul dbe the best way to go from here?

Depends on the person. Some people don't want to DIY or do not have the knowledge
DIY does not really have a warranty
DIY is cheaper
Purchasing a produce that has a warranty are more often under driver (slightly less light per LED) to increase the mean break down time and thus decrease warranty returns.

DIY is more versatile.. so on weird tank dimensions lends itself more to DIY.

Nothing wrong with purchasing a proven setup someone else has designed built and CSA approved.

I personally do alot of DIY to save $ and also I find it fun to build things and gratification from accomplishing a project.  DIY is not for everyone.

Bruce

[rush]

I definitely enjoy taking on new projects lol

Maybe for the next beatch of LED's I add I may go DIY.

[HomerJ]

Ah okay, so the "brick" will be providing most likely 350-400mA of constant current at a variable voltage.  Just a random guess since the 3w LED's are underpowered to 1.6w's or something in that range.

Its a shame they removed the dimmable feature.

So I opened up my ReefBrite tonight.  Each group of 6 leds has a small driver.  The label on it says 24V 450mA.  That's odd since that would make the leds driven at 2.7W if my math is right (24*0.45 / 6 ).

I don't think changing the power supply for a dimmable one would help if I understand things properly.  One would need to remove the existing drivers as well.  Regardless, I am not going to risk my ReefBrite to that experiment!

BTW, the leds in the ReefBrite are identical to these.  They are simply "glued" to the C channel case:
http://www.nanotuners.com/product_info.php?cPath=74&products_id=697&osCsid=k5sotnm9j1hp3ag3t8hf5p2686