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from low tech to high tech

Started by cichlidicted, September 23, 2009, 03:49:42 AM

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cichlidicted

Hello ... please tell me if am doing anything wrong ..

Alright so for the past 2 weeks my planted tank was on 1.5watts per gallon (coralife fixture 54x2) for 6 hours each day ...

yesterday i've introduced the TEK HO 54x4 fixture which is approx 2.5 watts per gallon (some say with this light fix, it cant be measured in wattage)... anyways, am turning two bulbs on for 8 hours a day, a couple more days and i'll have the 4 bulbs on for 8 hours a day.

when introducing CO2, the same day am turning the 4 bulbs on .. i'll be using a powerhead to release into the tank.
Ill also be turning the CO2 like 2 hours before my lights come on and turning it off with the lights (Thanks Charlie's)
is that okay ?[/size]

In terms of fertilizers ... am planning on using the following:
Flourish: Trace - 4 capful twice a week
Flourish: Potassium 3 capful 3 times a week
Sachem flourish: 1.5 capful twice a week
Flourish Iron: 1 capful once a week
any diff suggestions ?

Finally, is there a "good" way to determine the b.p.s or just go by what fits my plants !!??
i've crossed over this ... http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/art_plant_co2chart.htm
any ideas ?


thank you in advance.

fischkopp

1st - installation and lighting sounds alright.

2nd - dosing depends on your lighting scheme, substrate, the plant types you have and the total plant mass. Generally, if you are using a dedicated plant substrate then you won't need to fertilize in the beginning. I How does you tank look like at the moment? Aside from that, take a look at EI dosing, start with a quarter - half what's recommended for the tank size, keep an eye on plant and algae growth, and go from there.

3rd - a good method to determine the CO2 concentration is the drop checker method. The dosing CO2 chart makes a few assumptions and tend to be quite in-accurate, especially with the softer water we have here in Ottawa. There is another method: you can take a glass of water and let it sit over night, the CO2 will outgas during this time. Measure the pH before and after; if it increases by 1 then you have sufficient CO2 in the water.

be aware of the green side

charlie

#2
Quote from: cichlidicted on September 23, 2009, 03:49:42 AM
Hello ... please tell me if am doing anything wrong ..

Alright so for the past 2 weeks my planted tank was on 1.5watts per gallon (coralife fixture 54x2) for 6 hours each day ...

yesterday i've introduced the TEK HO 54x4 fixture which is approx 2.5 watts per gallon (some say with this light fix, it cant be measured in wattage)... anyways, am turning two bulbs on for 8 hours a day, a couple more days and i'll have the 4 bulbs on for 8 hours a day.

when introducing CO2, the same day am turning the 4 bulbs on .. i'll be using a powerhead to release into the tank.
Ill also be turning the CO2 like 2 hours before my lights come on and turning it off with the lights (Thanks Charlie's)
is that okay ?[/size]

In terms of fertilizers ... am planning on using the following:
Flourish: Trace - 4 capful twice a week
Flourish: Potassium 3 capful 3 times a week
Sachem flourish: 1.5 capful twice a week
Flourish Iron: 1 capful once a week
any diff suggestions ?

Finally, is there a "good" way to determine the b.p.s or just go by what fits my plants !!??
i've crossed over this ... http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/art_plant_co2chart.htm
any ideas ?


thank you in advance.
2 hrs is a good start for reference, it all depends on how fast your co2 gets to a good saturation level before the lights kick in, the goal is to have your co2 levels at about 25-30ppm when the lights come
on
As suggested by fischkopp, the PH/KH reference can be flawed, i much prefer the water sample ph before & after - you pull a sample just before the co2 kick off at the end of the day & measure the PH, leave the said sample overnight ( recommended 24 hrs) & re check the PH the difference should be 1 point or more, this will give you a good indication of good co2 saturation, that said this system has it`s flaws too as with pretty much any DIY co2 checking, but gives you a pretty good starting reference.

Regarding your fertilization, nothing is wrong with the products you are using, but if your tank is on the larger side 75>gallons ( which i think it is), you will be spending a small fortune on fertilizers, the alternative is dry ferts from the Hydroponic stores namely Potassium Nitrate, Potassium phosphate & Potassium sulphate & a trace mix

The frequency & qty of dosing is dependent on which way you choose to do it, they are several approaches, i personally like the EI index approach, since it`s great for beginners & advanced alike & eliminates the constant testing, i would suggest you get this e book,it`s a good read for cheap & gives you the tools to choose which method is best for you.
http://www.aquaticplantnews.com/

I usually turn off my co2 a hr before lights out & lastly there is no reason you cannot start your co2 now with the 2 bulbs, always make sure you are home for a while when you decide to adjust co2 levels , so you can monitor the fish.
Regards


cichlidicted

Thanks for the fast reply..

my setup is a 90 gallon with eco-complete substrate ... plants, nothing fancy... swords, java, cabomba, christmas moss, vals, i would say the plants cover 30% - $40 the tank....... but am planning to add Glossostigma elatinoides or baby tears as ground cover, and probab some red plants when i get used to this ...


I will be applying the way you recommended in regards to test the CO2 ..thnx fischkopp

Charlie i bought that book like a month ago when you recommended it for someone else... but the reason i went with commercial brands is because as a beginner i prefer the easy way, plus i had no idea ppl can find it here. I actually went to ebay and looked for it !! when i get better with plants, ill ask where you get ur dry fertz from.

appreciate your time..


Toss

You mentioned powerhead for CO2 in the 1st thread. Is it going to spray the CO2 into a gravel vac. tube? If your powerhead just gonna spray the CO2 to the water column, you won't get the most CO2 diluted in the water. It will still works but you need the crank up the bubble count way high. At this time with the current plants you have, minimum fertilizer is enough. Too much = algae bloom.
75 gal - Mosquito rasbora, Bushynose pleco, RCS
9 gal - CRS
40 gal - Longfin Albino Bushynose pleco, RCS