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NEW Acrylic tank build

Started by uarujoey, May 29, 2011, 08:29:44 PM

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uarujoey

Hi guys, Joey here.

I just wanted to give everyone a heads up that i will be soon posting
a new video series on how to build an acrylic aquarium.

Start to finnish. everything needed to know. From where to get the acrylic,
how much you can expect to pay for the acrylic
how to cut it
how to design the aquarium
preparing the edges of the acrylic
putting the tank together
welding the tank together
finishing touches(rounding corners, and flame polishing)
plumbing the tank
Designing building and installing filtration.

each step will show exactly how to do everything. In video format.
Using common and easy to use tools. Nothing fancy.

Once you see this series, you will know everything you need to know to build an acrylic aquarium, and will see just
how easy it really is.

Also included will be a few added bonuses for my viewers. i dont want to give them away yet.....

This video series will be posted soon. I have set the date to have the first video out, as this friday.

I will be posting all videos right here for you to see.

Anyways, just a heads up.

All videos will first be uploaded to my YouTube channel here: www.youtube.com/uarujoey

Subscribe if you can!

Thanks for looking.

morrom

Hello

O very cool looking foward to seeing your post!
Keep us posted.

Trevor

RossW

I watched your video on acrylic vs. glass.

I have a question about acrylic and scratches.  How do you avoid them?  I agree they can be buffed out, but I would prefer to avoid them than repair them.  Are they special tools and/or tricks you use?

uarujoey

Quote from: RossW on May 30, 2011, 12:17:55 PM
I watched your video on acrylic vs. glass.

I have a question about acrylic and scratches.  How do you avoid them?  I agree they can be buffed out, but I would prefer to avoid them than repair them.  Are they special tools and/or tricks you use?


How do you avoid them?

When cleaning the tank, try to avoid using a magnet to clean the viewing panels. Dirst and sand tend to get in between the acrylic and magnet.

I use a "glass" algae cleaner, the type that is on a pole, And i replace the abrasive sponge with a soft cloth.

I sometimes simply do it by hand with a cloth.

To clean the out side, i just use water and soft paper towel.

You can also get a protective wipe for the outside of the acrylic as well. Its called "Novus 1" it cleans, shines and protects the outside.

Other than that, i simply be careful when im working on the tank. Acrylic doesn't scratch that easy anyways.

Even if you did scratch the inside, You'd only notice that you even scratched it when is empty and dry. When full of water, its hard to see any scratches.

Tend to avoid big powerful plecos as well.

redbelly

Very interested to watch the build thread!

Ross was asking about the scratches as in a SW tank the scratches are much more noticable and they tend to fill with coraline algae and such and become an eye swore very quickly.

Novus has a whole line of compounds for removing scratches from glass. I believe there are three, 1-2-3 for removing heavy scratches, fine scratches and a polish.

Hookup

I've no exprience in FW.


In SW, the algae that encrusts on the glass can get pretty darn hard to remove... what's the secret for acrylic?  A cloth will not likely take coraline algae off the glass... though I never tried... so maybe it will.. haha.
 

It sounds like acrylic is hands-down the best choice.. other than it's tendency to scratch, or that glass resists scratching significantly more...  and once it's scratched... can these compounds be used under-water with the fish/corals/inverts in the tank?


Some pretty compelling arguments for acrylic though...  and cool video series.

uarujoey

you can use various grits of sand paper to remove scratches underwater... but its always best to drain the tank down to the scratch.

There are also Acrylic Algae Scrapers made for acrylic tanks, as well as pads for it.


JD

Something I just noticed, acrylic appears to be susceptible to warpage as seen here.
http://ovas.ca/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=2399

JetJumper

Quote from: JD on May 30, 2011, 04:57:47 PM
Something I just noticed, acrylic appears to be susceptible to warpage as seen here.
http://ovas.ca/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=2399

I know someone who just replaced their 100gallon tank due to a warped front.
.: JetJumper's Zone :.

uarujoey

Absolutely. Acrylic will bend and warp if the proper thickness is not used. But it doesn't simply warp on its own. Most warping and bowing is due to the owners of not using the correct thickness.

When using thin acrylic lids like the one in that link, at a thickness like that, it will tend to bend downwards. A simple fix is flipping the lid over. This is exactly what i do. I use 6mm acrylic on one of my tanks for lids, and simply flip them over once a week. But they are also made out of extruded, and not cell cast.

On this build, im using 12mm(1/2") lids... theres no chance of them bowing.

Hookup

Well there maybe a lot less hobby tanks from acrylic, but there are still thousands and thousands of them...  Like all things in life, it's a game of compromise.


dan2x38

Thanks Joey very well done video with great audio. Often I ovoid people's posts regarding videos because of the quality. Look forward to the the next installments. Thanks for sharing your know how here. Personally I've been thinking of designing a new sump and using acrylic.
Voltaire:
"I may not agree with what you have to say,
but I'll defend to the death your right to say it."

uarujoey

Quote from: dan2x38 on June 02, 2011, 11:26:25 AM
Thanks Joey very well done video with great audio. Often I ovoid people's posts regarding videos because of the quality. Look forward to the the next installments. Thanks for sharing your know how here. Personally I've been thinking of designing a new sump and using acrylic.

No problem Dan.

I have a few different designs for sumps on my channel, so feel free to use what ever you want.

Hookup

nice vid... what kind of acrylic?  Cast or Extrude or what?

DIdn't catch it in the video what was recommended... srry prob there but I am lexdysic, i mean dyslexic.

redbelly


RossW

I think Pat's finger got stuck on the 2 key.

I heard 12 mm.

In one of his other video's he mentioned that cell cast was something like 4x stronger.

Quote from: redbelly on June 02, 2011, 01:23:32 PM
122mm Cell Cast

uarujoey

Quote from: RossW on June 02, 2011, 01:53:05 PM
I think Pat's finger got stuck on the 2 key.

I heard 12 mm.

In one of his other video's he mentioned that cell cast was something like 4x stronger.


Thats right. 12mm cell cast in this build.

Cell cast is the denser and stronger material over extruded. If i had to desrbie the difference between the two, i would say that cell cast is "harder" then extruded.

Extruded can also be used though. I have used it to build sumps. As long as the water level is not higher than 8-12", and using at least 6mm, its fine. Just needs to be braced properly.

dan2x38

The only reason I want (considering) to build a sump is to get certain dimensions to maximize the space used under my stand. If I am going to use up the stand for a sump might as well use as much as I can. I would also make it in two parts so I could take one half off line if needed. Have my shimmer/return chambers in one section and fuge in the second. Cool thing with acrylic much easier to work with than glass and less messy. Way more configurable for DIY.
Voltaire:
"I may not agree with what you have to say,
but I'll defend to the death your right to say it."

uarujoey

Quote from: dan2x38 on June 02, 2011, 11:26:20 PM
Cool thing with acrylic much easier to work with than glass and less messy. Way more configurable for DIY.

Exactly! Most tools used on wood, are also used on acrylic. Most times its simply changing the type of blade.